Also had a shake on the steering wheel between 90 and 110kph.
Re-did the Trunnion seal's, wheel bearings and seal's and re-packed the king pins...
When I disconnected the tie-rods and steering arms from the Hub, the whole hub flopped to one side under its own weight.
Decided to put thinner shimms on the King Pin assembly and re-assemble and see whats what.
Went from a .5 shimm to a .25 and I now have no more shimmy or shake and I love my car again
When I put the tension spring on the hub after re-assembly, it pulled 1.25kg.
I am not sure if this is too stiff or not stiff enough, but it sure feels a hell of alot better everywhere on the road.
Regards
Adrian
2003 4.8
Front bashplate (PC)
Transfer case skid plate (PC)
1: Did you do the job yourself and was it relatively manageable (i consider myself pretty good with a spanner, but by no means a hard-core mechanic)
I did, I myself am not a pro, but can throw a spanner when needed. The job went very smoothly. The biggest problem I had was that I did not order all of the seal's at once. so did it over a week as and when the parts arrived at Nissan.
Order the trunnion seal pack, part# 40579vb000 R317.84 each (it is a complete seal pack consisiting of the scraper, seal and steel supprt) the wheel bearing seal(inner) part# 40227c8200 R115.54 each.
They might not need replacing at such low kms, but you have everything stripped, so I feel it is better to do the seal as an insurance in peace of mind.
2: Where did you purchase the thinner shims?
The shimms were bought from Nissan, Part# 4060344000 R22.32 each x 4.
3: How many km's did your troll have by the time you needed to do this? (mine has only done 130 000km
I bought my car with 190k kms on the clock and I did the seals now at 214k. She shimmied from the day that I got her so I have no idea when it started...
4: Did you need any specific tools to do this?
Normal set of sockets, set of screwdrivers, a power Bar and some penetrating oil to loosen everything, a torque wrench to tighten everything, a rubber mallet(to get the hub off of the drive shaft), some high quality bearing grease, some high quality CV grease, a seal remover, a decent tressle((sp)this is no fiesta ito weight), a lead lamp, some rubber grease and some copper slip, a 4pound hammer(for the tie rod and steering joint)
Oh and one allen key socket to take the auto hub off and a circlip remover(cant remember the size but I think its a 7mm).
Otherwise call me on: 0 eight two 9 five 7 doubble 4 0 one and we can chat further.
Regards
Adrian
2003 4.8
Front bashplate (PC)
Transfer case skid plate (PC)
A seal remover tool is shaped in a T and has curved points and is basically used to man handle the seal out of its spot. we also used a small Gwalla(baby tyre Iron) and although it is NOT the best way to do it, sometimes those seal are VAS! But be very very carefull not to hurt any of the seal seat's etc as the seal wont graft afetr that...
I used the 4 pound on the joints...
I spose also not the prettiest way to do it, but I dont have the pro tool.
Basically turn the nut out untill it is sitting flush with the bottom of the threaded stud. You now need to give it a good klap making sure that you are hitting it square on the flat nut/stud surface. It needed around five strong man slap's and was loose. all you do then is take the nut off completely and push the ball joint out.
No damage what-so-ever to the nut, stud or thread!
Hope this help!
Regards
Adrian
2003 4.8
Front bashplate (PC)
Transfer case skid plate (PC)
Thanks a heap dude. Jeepers.
