Overheating

[Arriewarrie]

HI, I am new to the forum. Has anyone experienced a constant overheating problem on there vehicle in the past? My 1999 4.2 tdi with only 20300km has such a problem at the moment, and although I have recently reconditioned the engine and ALL parts are new including the radiator it still overheats after driving a mere 20km. Adivse is very welcome as my affection for this car is at an all time low.
Thank you in advance.
AM

[Peter Connan]

Welcome Arriewarrie.

Was the viscous coupling on the fan replaced? This is generally the number 1 cause of overheating Patrols. When you start the car from cold, you should hear the fan clearly for the first minute or so, then you should hear it "clutch out", and as it gets hot, you should hear it "clutch in" again.

Also check that the fan blade is fitted the right way around.

Also, is it really getting hot, or is it only the gauge? I have had pirate sender units over-read and under-read.

Good luck

[SCUBA Patrol]

Arriewarrie,

Soos Peter se PM Tour de Frans hy sal jou vinnig in die regte rigting wys!

Phillip

[Arriewarrie]

Thank you the replies received, the viscous has not been replaced new silicon oil added though. My mechanic thinks the problem is with the head as when the car has overheated it is clear that air is in the radiator, therefor the only real place air can get in is through the head.
I will keep you posted regarding progress.

Cheers
Arnaud

[ricster]

I also have the 4.2 diesel, with aftermarket turbo fitted. You called it a 4.2 tdi..... is that the patrol bakkie/pickup or station wagon?

As Peter said, check those things. Check radiator cap too, but it sounds like it is overheating far too quick. There may be an airlock in the cooling system. I have a much bigger radiator fitted in mine and if I recall, the whole system took about 14L of water ( water and coolant mix). Park the patrol on a steep incline ( on ramps if possible ) so that the nose is up high. Put the fan on the "hot" position and run the engine to try force any air pockets out towards the radiator. This can take a while.

Check that all the pipes are sealed 100%. It only takes a tiny hole/leak to cause the pressure to drop in the system causing the water to boil earlier and therefore overheat.

I assume you have replaced the thermostat with a new one...... is it the correct one in other words is it opening at the right time. Open it up and do a test put the termostat in a bucket and pour just off boiling water ( approx 95 deg C ) on the thermostat. It should open up immediately to its maximum. Slowly add an ice cube at a time to see if it closes. You can do this on a stove too by putting the thermostat in cool water and then watching it open as it gets closer to the boiling point. there should be some movement at around +/- 70 deg C and hotter. Make sure it opens completely!!

My concern is that you say within 20Km you are getting overheating..... does it overheat on a level road, traveling at around the 80 - 120km/h? If not then I think there is a viscous fan problem, if it still overheats then there could be a water pump or problem as mentioned above. The sender unit could also be a faulty as Peter mentioned, so check the temp specs on it.

The BEST solution to this problem would be to make contact with tour de Frans here on the forum. This man helped me LOADS when I rebuilt my 4.2 ...... and I'm up here in JHB. That man knows the 4.2 diesels better than Malema knows how to make k@k..... ...... do a member search on the forum.

[Marino4x4]

Hi Arnaud

Tour de Frans by in die Kaap. Ek sien jy is in Vredendal. Kontak hom en kyk of hy nie by jou n draai kan maak nie. Jy kan dalk na hom toe ook gaan. Hy sal jou verseker kan help.

Groete

[Kagiso II]

Arnoud - My 3.0 Diesel het so gewarm word -- die *&^$@ gaboedel ht my oortuig dis die HEAD -- koop k n nuwe head - en toe sien hulle die piston tops is fynnnn krakies in -- toe kry hy NUWE pistons & ringe & head -- en die blkzmmm word nog steeds warm .
Toe ek klaar gevloek en ge flukk het - toe doen ek wat my Namakwalandse nefie my gese het -- VERVANG die [veral onderste ] radiator hoses ..
Toe sit ek sommer groter core radiator in -- en Boezman is koel en kalm -- selfs onder vrag [Vra maar sy nuwe baas - ]

[ricster]

If its the head.... which is VERY possible ( I speak from experience here.... I learnt the hard way), then yes you will definitely have overheating problems.... and loss of water.

These motors run with a 22.7:1 compression ratio, so ..... if the head is cracked, then DO NOT have it metal stitched or welded..... it will not last (my personal opinion).

You have 2 options here if the head is cracked.

1) Buy a new head from Nissan. It will cost you about R13000-14000 ( fight for a discount they will give it to you ) and use a GENUINE Nissan head gasket. Transfer all the valves etc over to the new head (obviously re-seat valves and new valve stem seals etc). Use 2.7 diesel precom chambers from the Hardbody ( if I'm not mistaken..... confirm with Frans ) and skim the head to get the precoms flat with the head. ensure that your sleeves protrude the correct amount above the block. This is VERY important !!! They must be either flat or protrude I think by 0.07mm ( again confirm with Frans ). I bought new head bolts as I wasn't sure if they had stretched ( I figured I am only going to do the job once so rather do it properly ). Make sure you re-torque the head bolts correctly.... you need good muscles to do it...ha ha.

2) Buy a new head from a motor spares shop ( Alert Motor Spares or Master parts in your part of the world). BUT.... make sure that the water ports are 100% open. I bought one from Alert Motor Spares and did everything except checking that the water port holes were open...... it cost me a new head as they were blocked ( hadn't been drilled through properly in the head between the no 5 & 6 cylinder and 2 & 3 cylinders if I remember correctly. I lost R 6000 cause of that mistake. If everything is ok then I cannot see why a non genuine Nissan head cannot work. I was just gatvol and coughed up the R 12500 for the genuine Nissan head, but have NEVER looked back since. Also use a genuine Nissan head gasket !!

I have done 50 000 odd Km on the new motor and have no problems with it now. My dash temp gauge NEVER goes above the left hand side of the squiggly line, even when working the motor on an uphill with EGT's sitting at close to 600 for a while. I also have a radiator that is roughly double the thickness of a standard radiator ( I think it comes out of a Cabstar truck)

Also only use the best, most expensive antifreeze/coolant you can get ( Genuine Nissan is expensive but hear from MANY sources that this is the right way to go)

[Arriewarrie]

Gents, a big thank you for you replies, Ricster my mechanic seems to think it is the head, all other parts that matter has been checked and replaced.
I will try to get in touch with Tour de France.

Thanks again, I will keep you posted.

[Tinus lotz]

There is a lady in the cape that sells patrol viscus couplings they work very well I think its about 450bucks ....just put a new one ca