Rear stabilizer bar
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- Patrolman
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Rear stabilizer bar
A Ugandan reviewer comparing the LC and the Patrol writes that the latter have a tendency to break their rear stabilizer bars. Any comments or thoughts on this?
I also see my owners manual lists a rear stabilizer bar disconnect (operated by switch from inside the cab) as an optional extra. Strikes me as a good idea for serious offroad work.
I also see my owners manual lists a rear stabilizer bar disconnect (operated by switch from inside the cab) as an optional extra. Strikes me as a good idea for serious offroad work.
- ricster
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Clem, I have done some mean axle twisters on my Iron Maiden, and have yet to break a stabilizer bar. What has failed on me is the link with the 2 ball joints ( rear right). The thread on the balljoint that connects to the bar stripped and the nut loosened up causing a slight ovaling of the hole in the bar. I bought new links from Nissan and they lasted 6 months!!
. I'm currently driving everywhere without the rear stabilizer bar fitted, until I get a chance to make a new link with bigger ball joints and also make the oval hole round again.

Regards
Cedric
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
You have any comparison photos Ricster? I used to remove the rear on the Pathy before trails and the difference was huge (for an independent), I'd have what neighbours stock LC had in terms of droop. I'm going to take mine to Hennops this weekend after some TLC with Graham...
Is it fast to disconnect? On pathy two 19 nuts. I've since lost them and drove the last year without
Is it fast to disconnect? On pathy two 19 nuts. I've since lost them and drove the last year without

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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Roy, I don't have any comparison pics.... but the Iron Maiden flexes her legs like a cheap pros..... ummm I mean .....a lot easier when 4x4'ing, and is very slightly top heavy on tar when sharp turning at a speed to get though the yellow robot...
There are 4 ( two each side ) bolts that fix it to the diff that I took off and then the bolts that are on the ball joints. I wouldn't say it a fast disconnecting method. I actually want to reconnect it as I cannot say I have ever had a flex issue with the Iron Maiden. Those axles flex toooooooo beeeeeeautifully .... even with the bar on

There are 4 ( two each side ) bolts that fix it to the diff that I took off and then the bolts that are on the ball joints. I wouldn't say it a fast disconnecting method. I actually want to reconnect it as I cannot say I have ever had a flex issue with the Iron Maiden. Those axles flex toooooooo beeeeeeautifully .... even with the bar on
Regards
Cedric
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Thanks Cedric. DieselFan, on some Land Rovers guys had quick disconnects - some type of a pin set-up where you just pulled out a locking pin.
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
The problem on the Patrol is what the heck do you do with the stabilizer bar once disconnected... where and how do you tie it up without getting in the way and bliksemming a hole into the underside of the body?
Regards
Cedric
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Me, I flex more than enough with the bar on.
So I would not bother.
So I would not bother.
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
I am planning to take off link pins just to see the difference. Never needed to remove as I have more than enough articulation.
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
The thing is that all the Patrols have VERY flexible rear axles. Its the front axle that doesn't give as much as the rear. So having the bar in, in my opinion is better than having it out/disconnected. We don't have front lockers and as such we need the rear to assist the front wheels to stay in contact with the ground. In my opinion if you take the rear out, best to take the front out too
Regards
Cedric
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
My feeling on this is as follows:
I have tried to measure how much the shock absorbers travel when lifting the whole rear end by the bumper, end then again while flexing, and I suspect disconnecting the bar won't make any appreciable difference to total flex on a long-wheel-base wagon.
However, when travelling across an angled speed bump it is obvious that the front axle passes over without much body roll, but when the rear axle passes over, the body sways substantially. I am thus convinced that removing the rear anti-sway bar will substantially improve ride comfort under these conditions, but even though I designed the necessary parts for a QD system about three years ago, I have yet to get around to actually making it.
I also suspect that unless you carry substantial loads on the roof rack, you can remove both front and rear bars permanently. For those that don't know, the local GQ's were virtually all delivered without front sway bars fitted.
Gerrit Loubser removed his bars when he fitted his suspension and professed to be very happy with the results. But I know that he did not habitually carry much on the roof.
I have tried to measure how much the shock absorbers travel when lifting the whole rear end by the bumper, end then again while flexing, and I suspect disconnecting the bar won't make any appreciable difference to total flex on a long-wheel-base wagon.
However, when travelling across an angled speed bump it is obvious that the front axle passes over without much body roll, but when the rear axle passes over, the body sways substantially. I am thus convinced that removing the rear anti-sway bar will substantially improve ride comfort under these conditions, but even though I designed the necessary parts for a QD system about three years ago, I have yet to get around to actually making it.
I also suspect that unless you carry substantial loads on the roof rack, you can remove both front and rear bars permanently. For those that don't know, the local GQ's were virtually all delivered without front sway bars fitted.
Gerrit Loubser removed his bars when he fitted his suspension and professed to be very happy with the results. But I know that he did not habitually carry much on the roof.
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