Replacing hand brake pads

[ricster]

I noticed that my hand brake is not holding quite like it used to. I haven't looked at the manual on how to replace the pads, but thought I'd ask here as I'm sure there are a few guys here that might need to do the same.

1) Is there adjustment to tighten up the hand break?
2) What is the part no for the pads?
3) Is it an easy process to change these pads.
4) Does one have to remove the propshaft etc. out?

Thanks

[Peter Connan]

1) Yes there is. Jack up the rear axle or one rear wheel, place it on stand(s), loosen handbrake and take it out of gear, get underneath with a large flat screwdriver and a torch.
Turn the driveshaft untill the hole in the back of the drum is at the bottom. There is supposed to be a plug in the hole, if it's still there remove it. Through the whole you should be able to see a toothed adjuster. Turn this with the screwdriver. I think turning it upwards will tighten the brake. Keep fiddling untill you can feel the brake work when trying to turn the propshaft, then loosen it a couple of teeth again.
2) No idea, sorry.
3) After you have removed the propshaft it shouldn't be too hard, but you will need pliers, vise grip and some big screwdrivers.
4) Yes.

[ricster]

Thanks Peter,

Hopefully there is still a lot of meat on the pads to sustain just an adjustment. I have no desire to remove propshafts etc......

[Russ Kellermann]

Peter is spot on. But let me add my 2c, as i have just gone through this after it caused havoc with gearbox changes etc due to incorrect setting, out-of-round drum, and poor reassembly all by Nissan Mechanics.

When you adjust the centre brake by means of screw driver through the small hole, make sure to adjust so the handbrake clicks 7 times. This is as per Nissan Manual, and although some might say this is not important, it is. (mine was set to 4 clicks and i adjusted it as even on 6 clicks it caused slight problem for me.) So adjust it to 7, then pull up,release,pull up release a few times so you know its constant.

I dont know part numbers for brake pads but that can be ascertained by calling nissan. However, chances are that your pads are fine in terms of wear as there is little rolling wear on these, or there should be unless they are binding whilst driving. However, there can be contamination from leaking rear seal from transfer case should someone have worked on that at some stage.

I would suggest whilst you have everything apart, to get the drum skimmed, to get surface flat and rid of groves and imperfections. It takes only a few minutes and is very cheap to do. The can do this at Nissan or you can take it to any mechanic or brake mechanic and they will skim the centre drum. Mine was slightly out of round and this was the main cause of all issues of binding and stop lights etc and cause major problems all pointing to gearbox but was this all along.

To get the drum off to change pads can be tricky and levering the drum like mechanics did at my Nissan will bend and damage the outside rim of the drum cover (the side attached to the back of the transfer where the handbrake cable locates) ,which they had to replace twice because of this. Giving the drum a knock with a rubber mallet to loosen it and then use some kind of puller is the only way but i have never seen this done.

Good luck.

[ricster]

Brilliant info mate !!!.... I'll slide under the Maidens undercarriage...... sounds soooooo wrong, but anyway.... and have a look. I know I have ( yeah me and my blonde hair ) twice now driven a short distance with the handbrake a little up, since it hasn't been gripping like it should. The propshaft also spins a hell of a lot faster than the wheels do so 1km is probably like 50km on the wheels.....

Thanks

[Kagiso II]

oompie has ONE demanding kwestjin if i may post a question on this netelige ou sakie

HOE ja HOW de hoenner on this earth can you 'wear away' hand brake linings in a propshaft brake ??

Lobo has done either 300 000 or 1300 000 KM - and still uses origanl pad set.
My reasoning being - there is never any friction on those pads - UNLESS you drive with hanbrake pulled up? so in theory - it must NEVER wear down??

[Lobo s'n werk nog 100 % -- teen enige helling STAAN hy as daai handrem opgetrek is - en as ek hom eerste laesterk sit, dan staan hy teen bangmaak hellig doodstil ... ??

[Russ Kellermann]

This is correct, hence my comment in my earlier post in this regard. Pads would only wear down should the handbrake be dragging,but if this happens, even to a small degree, the pads will wear , and subsequently may need replacement.

The other problem is when drum becomes slightly out of round, this will / can cause problems with pad wear as it bites on hot spots. This exacerbates the problem and further increases the drum wear (uneven wear). When this starts happening you may find gouging and hot spots on both pad and drum and in both cases pads should be replaced.

My assumption is that if pads are not binding (handbrake not holding) ,most times it would simply require the correct re-setting of the handbrake and possibly a drum skim. And only in extreme cases would the pads need to be replaced.

[Kagiso II]

Thank you ever so kindly in sharing my view on this one Russ. What I fail to grasp is how the damage would start in the first place - and it remains my submission that it can only start if a "mechanic" , albeit backyard, dealership or owner or friend, made a mistake in the first instance in the settings [i.e. Alignment & adjustments] of the drum and discs.

To all reading this -- Check your patrol hand brake settings ASAP.