Lift - suspension vs body??

[offroadbiker]

Kan ons die experts bietjie vra om die verskil tussen die twee opsies aseblief mooi te verduidelik, ie wat presies behels beide, voor en nadele, en koste?

By voorbaat dankie

Dirk
(ORB)

[Peter Connan]

Dirk, hierdie is al baie bespreek hier, en daarom is ek bereid om in afrikaans te antwoord.

Met 'n dubbel-lewendige-as voertuig soos die Patrol, is daar net een manier om meer grondvryhoogte te kry, en dit is deur groter bande op te sit. Want die laagste punte onder die voertuig, is die ewenaar-pampoene. Die grondvryhoogte word hoer met helfte die verhoging in wiel-deursnee.

Maar die Patrol het 'n baie lang asafstand, en daarom sleep hy maklik sy pens op 'n hobbel. deur die suspension te lig, verminder jy hierdie probleem. Ordentlike suspension lifts sluit skokbrekers in wat verder kan uitrek, en die gevolg daarvan is dat die wiele meer kan artikuleer (met ander woorde hulle kan verder uitsak), terwyl die boonste punte van die wielbeweging onveranderd bly.

Dit het egter die effek dat die as meer skuins staan ten opsigte van die voertuig wanneer jy die veerstelsel bietjie uitrek. En dit kan die gevolg he dat die agterste bande binne-in die modderskerms raak.

So, as jy net 'n body lift opsit, bly die voertuig se veldryvermoens effektief onveranderd (behalwe vir 'n verlaging in syhelling), want die pens bly net so ver van die grond af en die artikulasie bly onveranderd. Dit bestaan uit 'n paar passtukke wat tussen die onderstel en die bakwerk pas, en nuwe monterings vir die buffers. Die agterbuffer op die Patrol is egter effens problematies, omdat die middelste stuk die onderstel self is. Dit is waarskynlik die goedkoopste, maar sonder 'n suspension lift is dit eintlik niks werd nie, behalwe as 'n manier om meer plek te maak vir groot wiele.

Om die suspension te lig, is relatief eenvoudig as jy nie meer as 50mm lig nie. Goeie stelle bestaan uit vere, skokbrekers, caster correction bushes, ander ratkas-monterings en verlengstukke tussen die teenkantelstawe en die bakwerk. Daarna moet jy die briekpype en asempypies ook vervang.

Hoer as 100mm moet jy die panhard rods vervang, en word caster correction ook problematies, en mens moet begin kyk na spesiale voorste beheerarms of "drop boxes" ook nog.

[offroadbiker]

Dus die 33" bande wat op is help met grondvry hoogte van my voertuig
Iron Mansuspension help met artikulasie (skokbrekers en coils)

So al wat ek nog kan doen is body lift - op Isuuz moes ek ook radiator en fan skuif - ook nodig by Patrol?

Wat is redelike koste verbonde aan body lift?

Tx

[Magiel Oberholster]

As jy groter takkies opsit afekteer dit die speedo. Met hoeveel sal die speedo uit gaaan as ek van 15" na 16" gaan met die selfde profiel.

[Grant]

Dirk,

Peter made a good point but you will need panhard rods at + 50 mm. Also with the suspension lift and bigger wheels you will have to lengthen your axle bump stops otherwise the tyre will jam in the wheel well.


My suggestion would be to do a 50 mm suspension lift and then a 25 to 50 mm body lift. This will lift the body higher thus giving the wheel going up more travel. You will have to do some test to see by how much you can shorten your bump stop, as this determines the amount of articulation you will get. Also lengthening the sway bar connects will be required.

All of the other mods are as per Peter. if you decided to go more than 90 mm, rather order a set of drop boxes from G-Man. They worked far better than the castor correction bushes.

[offroadbiker]

Dirk,

Peter made a good point but you will need panhard rods at + 50 mm. Also with the suspension lift and bigger wheels you will have to lengthen your axle bump stops otherwise the tyre will jam in the wheel well. I have the Iron Man suspension on the car - dont know what lift thought and alread have the 33" tyre's and to date they have never caught in the wheel well so I take it the bump stops were ajusted acordingly. I have no friggen idea what a panhard rod is but I dont think the current Iron Man is higher than 50mm so it is most probably not on the vehicle....


My suggestion would be to do a 50 mm suspension liftwill have to find out what hight lift I have currently and then a 25 to 50 mm body lift. This will lift the body higher thus giving the wheel going up more travel. You will have to do some test to see by how much you can shorten your bump stop, as this determines the amount of articulation you will get. Also lengthening the sway bar connects will be required. I was just looking at a body lift for what reason I am not sure yet

All of the other mods are as per Peter. if you decided to go more than 90 mm, rather order a set of drop boxes from G-Man. They worked far better than the castor correction bushes.would like this but that would probably mean having to replace the current suspension totally and not sure that it is cost effective taking into acount that I already have an aftermarket suspension on the vehicle

[Peter Connan]

Dirk, I am fairly sure you already have a 2" lift on your car. This is by Typically this is the lowest lift a suspension kit like yours will give you.

In my opininion there is no reason to fit a body lift unless you have problems whith the tires jamming or rubbing in the wheel arches under full articulation. With a 2'" lift this can usually be sorted out much more easily by means of either wheel spacers on the back wheels or rims with a slightly wider offset.

You do not need drop-boxes on a lift of less than 75mm.

Magiel, you are correct. Depending on your current tire size, your speedo will however most likely still under-read. The difference will be around 3.2% or 4km/h at 120km/h.

[Alex Roux]

I have a 2" suspension lift plus a 2" body lift.

Besides the additional potential travel of the wheels, the body lift also helps to improve the approach angle a bit.

Other implications of the body lift is:
a) Your rock sliders (the kind that mount to the chassis) can be angled further upwards to benefit from the body lift - but then will not fit to the non-body lifted Patrol (if you were to sell it at some point).

b) The front bumper will leave a gap between the bumper and the body - since this is mounted to the front of the chassis. So the mountings to the front bumper needs to be adjusted to eliminate this unsightly gap. While my new front bumper was still being made by Ben, I needed the car and temporarily had the old factory bumper remounted.
The picture is added which illustrates the "gap" I am referring to.

Mnweni 2013.png (526.34 KiB) Viewed 2497 times

[Tinus lotz]

Dirk your GQ has a 2 inch lift I am sure had a good look at it last year at geroteck