Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

Hi

I spoke to Robor (011 876 2900). It sounds like they've done a lot of chassis, but they don't do the stripping. You need to bring the components you wish to calvanise. The cost is R 2200 exVAT + R7.50 exVAT per kg over 400 kg. It is a 10 - 15 working days process.

Therefore, I am speaking to my mechanic first about this whole deal. I am starting to lean towards this.

Peter, yes, I have another vehicle (Nissan Sentra) that I actually use to travel. I know for a fact that this chassis hasn't been in any major accident and I would rather get it galvanised than get the other one and need to do do work on it anyways. Also, cost wise, to get the Juan chassis here in Centurion plus the cost of the chassis might far outweigh the cost of just getting this one calvanised.

However, I might be missing something and therefore, I have not made a final decision - still gaining info.

I'll keep you guys updated on this one.

If you guys have a different view, let me know please.

Ernst

A small update...

Spoke to my mechanic and he is not even willing to do the stripping - says you need either space and a lot of time or willing to spend large sums of cash to get it done (way more than the calvinising would cost). I have neither of these and therefore calvinising is quickly becoming out of reach.

The important part is this really: Yes, there is quite a bit of rust on the chassis, but my experience of rust is non-existant. My mechanic doesn't seem to think that it is that bad. So, we are back to the initial plan then. Silverton Protec.

I'll update and make sure we have some before and after photos. In any ways, if I keep struggling with the rust, then nothing stops me from re-visiting the calvinising idea.

Ernst get in under the car with a medium-sized ball-peen hammer. See where the rust looks worst, and give that area a good whack.
If scabs come off, or you mabe a dent, then you need to make a plan urgently, but if nothing happens, you are probably OK.

Pay special attention to angine, gearbox, body and suspension mounting areas.

Good luck
Peter

Hi All

Just an update on the rust handling.

To start, let me first show the engine - the rust is not affecting the engine. Now, the chassis. First the photos BEFORE Pro Tec: Now, after Pro Tec did some work: Not perfect, but a massive improvement I think - especially at R1,300.

Brent (from Pro Tec) recommended that if I have the time to spare and the money, I should do the calvinising later. It is not just surface rust, but the damage is not such that something will break at any time. We'll see how everything holds up with some hectic off-roading.

In the meantime I have fixed the cd shuttle (also rust and a piece of plastic that broke off inside). Next step is are the little steel pipes that go from the front to the back - this I'll have done by some guys in Silverton as well (apparently they are very good with this sort of thing.

Piece-by-piece, it is all coming together.

aDios
Ernst

David wrote:I will not recommed rubberising as the rust will just grow beneath it. Sandblast and then galvanize the chassis

I dunno, my Patrol was rubberized at some point early in its life and it has survived 16 Russian winters.

Mrowka wrote:I dunno, my Patrol was rubberized at some point early in its life and it has survived 16 Russian winters.

Nothing wrong with rubberizing a clean chassis - just do not put it over existing rust as it does not stop rust!

I am under cars all day, your's looks fine in comparison to most vehicles down here.

David wrote:

Mrowka wrote:I dunno, my Patrol was rubberized at some point early in its life and it has survived 16 Russian winters.

Nothing wrong with rubberizing a clean chassis - just do not put it over existing rust as it does not stop rust!

True dat.