My '98 GU 4.2 TD

[Dustin]

Turbo oil feed line is in.
Now the turbo goes nom, nom, nom...whoosh
The measurement of the line worked out perfectly !
All I did was run the feed end with a 1/8" NPT male nipple to a 1/8" BSP swivel female adapter onto a 1/8" BSP union.

I had already drilled and blind tapped the flange on the turbo to 1/8" BSP because I had a bottom tap for the blind hole (HT18 turbo runs a 2mm restricter on the oil feed).
The 1/8" NPT tap was crazy expensive (R470 for a FEW tap) so I didn't want to throw the same amount of cash to buy a bottom tap for a 1 off job.
The 1/8" NPT tap is a must have for the turbo conversion, because almost all the pickup points on the block are 1/8" NPT and the VDO sender units the Madman use are also 1/8" NPT.

Before I went to Loc-Hose (local hydraulic fitting supplier) to have the line made up, I phoned Brian from Madman to ask about having to tee off of the oil pressure switch and omit the Madman supplied oil pressure switch that was supposed to be tee'd in next to the Nissan switch.
He said it was all fine, I just need to disable the oil pressure switch on the menu list and run the blue wire to earth so the EMS2 unit sees a closed circuit.
I'll probably tee in another brass tee and union to put the Madman oil pressure switch in at some stage, but it's not a must for now.
I just need to get the truck running first before I start fiddling and fine tuning later.

Oil feed line info :
1 x 1/8" NPT male nipple to barb
1 x 1/8" BSP female swivel to barb
1 x 1/8" BSP male to male nipple
2 x compression collars
1000mm of Teflon line stainless steel braided sheath (handles up to 270 deg C)
Total - R 354.80
Took 5 mins to make up.

[Anthony Forgey]

Neat!!!

[Michael]

Yes I don't think the ZD30 or TD42Ti air boxes are the best out there, but they are not so bad in my opinion.

I am running 1.1 bar boost at the moment and at no point do I feel like there are any restrictions. Its obviously built to fit in a certain place so Nissan didn't do the best job.
I have read that the Aussies actually produce 200Kw and more on the rear wheels with the standard TD42Ti airbox which has less flow than the ZD30 airbox because of the lid. They run up to 2 bar with those air boxes.

On the other hand, I can't wait for the Dustin/Connan air box to come alive as it will WITHOUT A DOUBT be better than the ZD30 air box and I am all for improvements!!

[ces]

I recognise those parts...

I musty be honest, that particular housing is not designed to optimise airflow through or around the filter. I did spend some time ensuring that the areas work out such that the major restriction is either the filter element itself, or the tubing between the filter and the engine/turbo.

I could have done a lot more to try and get a nice even velocity distribution around the filter element, but that would have increased the cost quite substantially, and it already seems a little exorbitant...

Piet, net vir ingeval jy dink ek maak of ek weet waarvan ek praat...

Julle kerels se skills is mighty impressive!

Net 'n vraag, AS mens bekommerd is oor die filtreervermoe van jul ontwerp, sal 'n pre-cleaner op die snorkel werk, of stuur mens dan die lugvloei heel in sy m... in?!

Christoph

[Peter Connan]

Christoff, ja en ja.

Jy kan 'n pre-filter gebruik, en dit sal waarskynlik jou filter langer laat hou, maar dit sal ook bietjie lugvloei steel.

Dis natuurlik baie minder van 'n issue met 'n turbo-enjin as met 'n NA enjin.

[Dustin]

Christoph, are you talking about these cyclonic pre filters ?

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I had one on my Land Rover Defender 90 300Tdi many years ago (I've since seen the error of my ways buying LR )
It worked beautifully !
I really didn't feel much of a difference in power on the vehicle.

I put it on because we always traveled in a group of friends, and the one guy always lead the way.
His Land Cruiser always kicked up a hell of a lot of dirt and every time we stopped to set up camp, I'd always have to whip my filter out and shake out half of the dirt road it sucked up.
I eventually had enough and bought the pre filter.
I never had to clean out my filter again on a trip and the filter stayed clean for way longer.

[Peter Connan]

Just for interest's sake, here is a little velocity calculation of the filter box:

AirboxVelocities.jpg (33.76 KiB) Viewed 4649 times

The calculation is based on red-line RPM's with 100% volumetric efficiency, which is of course impossible. I suspect it's very unlikely the efficiency is higher than 80%.

Personally, I don't think these velocities are high at all.

Just some comparatives: In the process industry, 0.3 Mach is considered an acceptable velocity for gas in pipelines. At normal pressure and temperature, that's about 95m/s or 330km/h.
It is geerally believed that most cars are at their most economical at around 80km/h. Only at speeds higher than this does air resistance really start playing a significant role.
The slowest stalling speed for a fixed-wing aircraft is about 50km/h (World war 2 Fieseler Storch).

[ricster]

Peter, I assume that is the air speed in the pipes leading in and out of the box itself. The biggest issue is to get the air speed from 6.34m/s (9.67m/s) as it exits the inlet pipe into the airbox, to as slow a velocity as possible to allow the filter medium to capture the dust particles. Once through the filter the air velocity will speed up again to the 8.68m/s (13.23m/s). Getting the air velocity slow enough inside the airbox is the crucial part.

I have a 4.5's airbox at home with the Nissan filter at home that I was looking at using for my Patrol, but also noticed that the gap between the filter housing and the OD of the filter is also extremely small for my liking. The air entering the airbox only has XXdm2 area to spin around the filter. Smaller dm2 area means faster speed, enlarge the area and the air speed will drop. Ok .... on a cyclonic filter housing slowing the air speed down defeats the cyclonic effect efficiency, so I presume a balance between the 2 is necessary.

On mine I am trying the flat type filter in a shaped rectangular box to slow and defuse the air slightly, without restricting it, getting it down to acceptable speeds for at least a 4,8 at 6000prm. I have to get a balance between filter medium m2 (bear in mind not all manufacturers of filters have the same m2 filter medium on the same part number filter), and airbox volume. Getting the air speed through the filter as slow as possible is the key issue.

Imaging the air speed on a super/turbo charged 4.8....

[ces]

Dustin,

I was thinking along the same lines, but more specifically wondering whether Flosep had one that would fit on a snorkel (see pic of my tractor's). I just believe their's is an improvement on the original design - think, not know - with all that background research going into the centrifugal process. But ja, glad to see I wasn't that far off the mark at all!

Good luck with the rest of the project!

Christoph

[Dustin]

I dropped the sump...nice dirty job
I fitted the 1/2" brass barb connector for the oil return from the turbo.
Drilled 19mm hole, tapped 1/2" BSP, turned in barb fitting with a bit of PTFE tape, then brazed the fitting in and for good measure I reinforced with good old Pratley's steel putty to make sure it never comes out
I bought some hydraulic hosing and some serious clamps for the oil return line, as the oil coming out of the turbo is going to be mighty warm.
The hose can handle 130 degrees internally and 100 degrees externally. It's fibre braid reinforced as well as it has what looks like a 2mm stainless steel spring internally between the 2 layers of rubber, so it's plenty strong.
Cost R75 for 500mm from Belting Supply Services.

The injector pump came back from JHB... ooo... it looks so good, not all dirty and scrungy like it came off the vehicle.
I was very fortunate that the pump was in pretty good shape internally, so it didn't cost me as much as I had budgeted for.
Basically the guys that team turbo use do a rebuild and fit the aneroid, but if the internals are ok, they only replace what is worn. In my case it was minimal
I can't tell you what I ended up paying because it wouldn't be fair for everyone to budget for that price, but I can tell you that the maximum price you'd pay would be around R10500.
Expensive, but still a lot cheaper than anyone else !
I was quoted R15500 to have it done here in PE.

The injectors are in to be tested and pop pressures to be increased to 125-130kPa for the turbo.
Hopefully I'll have them back tomorrow.

The big problem I have now is we're leaving to CT tomorrow evening, so the work comes to a grinding halt until I get back on the 23rd
I'm hoping to twist SWAMBO's arm to cut the break short so I can hopefully finish the project.
The troll is my daily drive, and I'm suffering not having wheels

When I started planning the build, my goal was today as a to me from me birthday present, but such is life
Hopefully i can make it before the end of the month at least.