My Back Bumper Build

[iandvl]

Sorry folks. I've been very quiet forum-wise (on several forums) the last while. But I've been working myself to death, and on the occasions when I don't have work to do, I've been trying to avoid my laptop like the plague...

I got a chance to continue with my bumper this weekend. I could perhaps have completed the assembly, but I ran out of welding rods and grinding disks on Saturday afternoon. I could not continue on Sunday, because I picked up a very bad case of arc eye and flash burn. First time I've had serious arc-eye. It is not pleasant... I assume the arc eye is from my welding mask. It's one of those cheap ones, and I think it is sub-standard, as I even have flash burn on my forehead - which is supposed to be protected by the mask... The other flash burn was as a result of me being an idiot and welding in shorts and t-shirt. Stupid, but I guess it is a mistake one makes once... All my unprotected bits (legs and arms) look like boiled shellfish...

Still quite a bit to do - a bit more cutting (I want a little more space between the body work / lights and the back corner pieces) and a few bits to finish welding / patch up / neaten up. But overall, I'm happy.

In any case, a few photographs, or it didn't happen...

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[Tinus lotz]

[David M]

Ian that is looking good. As you say the gap between the light and bumper needs to be widened. If I look at the damage I did to my light I would say at least 15 mm.

While you are busy see if you can't incorporate a swingarm and take that wheel off the door.

[iandvl]

Ian that is looking good. As you say the gap between the light and bumper needs to be widened. If I look at the damage I did to my light I would say at least 15 mm.

While you are busy see if you can't incorporate a swingarm and take that wheel off the door.

David,

Thanks. I am chuffed with the outcome so far. I'm thinking of about 10mm - 15mm off the top of the corner pieces. If I may ask - how much clearance does your back BZT bumper have between the body work / lights and the bumper ?

I considered the swing arm, but I think I am going to pass on this. I have read of some of the issues with the barn door cracking, but I'm also not a huge fan of the weight hanging on the back of the chassis. I'll still decide. :)

[David M]

Ian that is looking good. As you say the gap between the light and bumper needs to be widened. If I look at the damage I did to my light I would say at least 15 mm.

While you are busy see if you can't incorporate a swingarm and take that wheel off the door.

David,

Thanks. I am chuffed with the outcome so far. I'm thinking of about 10mm - 15mm off the top of the corner pieces. If I may ask - how much clearance does your back BZT bumper have between the body work / lights and the bumper ?

I considered the swing arm, but I think I am going to pass on this. I have read of some of the issues with the barn door cracking, but I'm also not a huge fan of the weight hanging on the back of the chassis. I'll still decide. :)

BZT has about 10 mm - Note enough as I cracked my light.

As long as your mounting points are good that weight is no problem - My 16" steelie with 33" Cooper STT Pro weighs about 50 kg and no problem. I do have the OME 400 kg coils though.

[hugejp]

Well done!!

[Wilkie]

Looks sommer bakgat...
lot of hard work ..!!

[Peter Connan]

If you think about it carefully, you will realize that the spare wheel hangs off the rear of the chassis anyway, whether that load is fed through the bumper or through the body mounts...
If you keep the wheel as close to the rear door as possible, then there's not much difference on the suspension.

I would srongly recommend one of the setups that allows the spare to swing away when you open the rear door, instead of as a seperate step...

Oh, and about the flash burn, some people (like me) are not so clever. I do that to myself on a regular basis.

[iandvl]

If you think about it carefully, you will realize that the spare wheel hangs off the rear of the chassis anyway, whether that load is fed through the bumper or through the body mounts...
If you keep the wheel as close to the rear door as possible, then there's not much difference on the suspension.

I hear you Peter. The thing being being the weight being carried further back means an increase in the leverage. I'll do the math at some point. Not today - my head hurts.

Guess it will be fine if it is as close to the door as possible, as mentioned. However, I', not going to have a chance to do further building for a bit so there is still time to modify my idea if I think it is feasible. :)

Oh, and about the flash burn, some people (like me) are not so clever. I do that to myself on a regular basis.

After this experience, never ever again on my side. I've been very uncomfortable over the last couple of days... Will invest in a decent welding mask, and some cotton overalls...

[Peter Connan]

Get one of these self-darkening helmets. You won't believe how much easier it makes welding.

Also, a pair of long-sleeved welding gloves is a great idea.

The spare wheel is roughly a meter behind the rear axle line. I can't see that an extra 50mm or so can make much difference.

However, while we are on the subject, an extra spare wheel or a holder for two jerry cans will make a big difference, and I have always been hesitant to go that far. But a lot of guys have, and few have had any real issues...