Some verification on Electrical install

[vanhack]

So I am about to put in a dual battery to power the fridge and also transfer all the other Auxilliary mods to the dual battery.

Dual battery is yellowtop Optima 55Ah /750CCA

The front of the Patrol will have the following with amps pulling
[1] 3 x 42W LED lights = 10.5A wired with relay/and blade fuse currently
[2] UHF/VHF radio rated at 12A at max transmission power
[3] 4 channel Amplifier output 60W per channel at 4 ohms = 20A at full volume

Total in Front is 42.5A

The back of the patrol will have the following:
[1] Rear work light 1 X 42W LED relayed = 3.5A
[2] Fridge = 3.3A max, although ARB rate at 7.5A on their manual???
[3] Rear Fog lamps using incandescent 21W bulbs on roof rack (2x21W) /12 = 3.5A
[4] additional 10 Amps for future use.

Total at the back is 20.3 A
Total Amps if all is on at once is 42.5 +20.3 = 62.8A
(but all on at once is unlikely)

I am going to wire the auxiliary main feed with a 60 A circuit breaker, which will feed the front of the patrol accessories to a fused distribution block and take a large enough cable to the back and connect to a 20A circuit breaker and again into a fused distribution block. To powe the rear fog/work lights and fridge.

Please let me know if the above is measured correctly, I still have not figured out the gauge of cable for everything, but will do once I have an idea on what is available locally in smaller lenghts, rather than whole rolls of cable.

Can please advise me on my size of circuit breakers, and if everything still needs to be fused even if using circuit breakers?

[Tinus lotz]

Imho you are putting to much on that battery....the 2 way radio and rear light ect can come of main crank battery ....would suggest get a fuse holder and fuse each line separate. ..the 60a main breaker close to battery is a geat idea...4mm sould be fine and you can use the 2 flex with sprag tubing we get it with 1000v insulation in 100m rolls

[vanhack]

Imho you are putting to much on that battery....the 2 way radio and rear light ect can come of main crank battery ....would suggest get a fuse holder and fuse each line separate. ..the 60a main breaker close to battery is a geat idea...4mm sould be fine and you can use the 2 flex with sprag tubing we get it with 1000v insulation in 100m rolls

Distribution blocks are fused as well for each input, using the following at each end:



Considering my usage, when driving offroad I would use the following:
2-way radio
Fridge
Stereo at low to moderate volume level
Charge a phone from main battery
Rear work light for reversing only

When driving onroad
Fridge
Occasionally rear fog lights (front 3 LED spots will not be used, as it just makes it worst)
Front 3 LED spot lights rarely with rear fog lights.
Stereo moderate to high
Rear work light for reversing only

When parked/camping
Fridge
Rear Work light for lengthy time, I really would prefer a LED strip light near the awning, but there is only supplier and prices are ridiculous.
Stereo (low-moderate-high)
10 Amps extra for charging phones in future if needed.

On your suggestion I am only going to use the front LEDS when driving, and have wired them to trigger of the high beam, and as you suggest wire the 2-way to the starter battery....worst comes to worst, I can re-wire to Aux battery for emergency cases. Our 2-way radio use is limited to our convoy only, which rarely separates more than 2 kms, and most of the convoy are using smaller handheld radios as 2-way are not allowed....long story...but another time.