Gents, you are most welcome and thanks. The tc is about the only thing I know something of and I have a couple of piling issues on the engine, nothing major. I will beef up the thread with a couple more pics and comments as soon as I have a bit of time on my hands. It was indeed and in many aspects a good thing to tackle this task myself. Next to come is a complete OME kit, shocks, coils and steering damper, just need to be picked up and installed, again by myself.
Nice forum and thanks for the interest. Keep the wheels rolling
1: Open and close the shocks a few times by hand before installing, that way fluid reaches all o-rings/seals, and wont "blow out" or rupture when you drive off for the first time. Seen this happen.
2: Remove all paint on the pin thread at the end of the shocks, i used a soft brush head on the grinder. Reason being that the paint clogs the thread and nylok nuts bunch up, eventually the rebound delivered by the patrol will start to flatten the culprit threads and eventually trip the pin. Seen this happen.
3: after the above, apply light dose of copperslip to thread, just a little.
Good luck.
'07 Patrol Pickup TD42 N/A,285's KM2,3" Lift,ONCA Bars,Warn High Mount,Alu Canopy, and some other Stuff.
This is somewhat backwards forward, but as promised, here is a bit more. The purpose of this is to complete my experience of working on my GU 4.5 TX12A transfer case, and post as much as possible in an attempt to help others who may deal with the same or similar problems. There is a cost saving and quality control motive to it. After all, the purpose of owning a vehicle like this is to drive off into harsh, challenging and unknown territory (The Bundu) with the piece of mind that you dont have to walk out of there.
Attachments
The TX12A common to the GU 4.5 and others. Just to remind me where all the wiring and piping fit.
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You can take the whole thing apart with a 14 and 32 (F-Nut) size socket. Some will call the F-nutt "Flange nut". I have a different word for the F in mind.
Here is the handbrake assembly. I did not disconect the cable in the drum but rather where the cable attach to a L shape lever arm on the chassis, easy.
The location of the oil gutter, the orientation of the odometer gear with shims.
Just the mid section after the chain cover has been removed.
Attachments
Hand brake mechanism with brake shoes
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Oil gutter to oil the odometer gear, that bearing and to force-transfer oil to the chain section.
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Rear section where the chain is located. Bottom part shows the 4L gear.
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When shifting to 4H this selector engage the gears to start driving the chain
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Slack on the chain, no problem. There was no chain wear marks on the chain gears. Bet it will last for a very good while.