Camping power requirements

Q&A: Stuff to make your trips and camping more comfortable.
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Dungbeetle
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Re: Camping power requirements

Post by Dungbeetle »

I use this on actual trips:
https://4x4direct.co.za/meters/6940-...689689072.html

Interesting info especially if you monitor and write down the data for analysing later.

But, still - finely optimised systems will lead to total fail on those few very hot/humid cloudy days...

From many moons experience stick with:

1 x 105 Ah battery + 2 x 80W panels and proper charger for each/every fridge

...............

Currently, in my trailer I run 2 fridges, 1 x old 60 litre and 1 new 66 litre

4 x 80W panels in sets of 2 hinged suitcases (one extra 80W panel stashed away for those rainy days in Coffee Bay )

1 x HcdP 20A DC-DC MPPT (can handle 400W of solar input)

2 x Dixon DC105DT batteries

I always have Ice, frozen meat, cold beer etc etc no matter what the conditions.

My trips regularly exceed 7 days, some last 12-14 days - no problem
2000 Patrol GL 4.2D - Still strong just short of 900 THOUSAND KILOMEEEEEEEEEEEEEETERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRSSSSSSSSSSSSS - Daily Tractor
2014 CRD at 170k km - Sunday Tractor
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NoPressure
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Re: Camping power requirements

Post by NoPressure »

It is interesting to read everybody's setup and opinions. I will make work of Peter's sheet a bit later.

I think that one must also consider the actual amps a battery can accept (charge) in an hour.

Ok, here it goes. Just a disclaimer, I have been running this setup for very long (since varsity), so a lot of it is because it I chose because it is budget friendly. It has moved from vehicle to vehicle and is now in my d/c bakkie.

I have one 50L fridge and some LED lights, almost never charge my phone, but do have to sometimes.

Power source:
I have 2x Cranking batteries in parallel (2 x 102ah = 204ah). This excludes my cars factory cranking battery.

Charge source:
Alternator and 2 x 100watt fixed solar panels on canopy.

Why this setup:
Cranking batteries are cheaper than deep cycle and can charge at a higher rate than deep cycles. Amp hours are also amp hours, whether its from a cranking or deep cycle battery. The cranking batteries don't last as long as deep cycles with regards to deep discharge ( I try and keep mine above 80% = 12.4volts). I have about 41ah that I can use. Obviously a lot more in desperate situations (I always plan for these).

Charge rate is important because If your amp need is close to your battery charge rate your battery will just not charge fully again (can take several days to reach 100%). My amp need is about 72ah per day. At 30 amps per hour charge (conservative cranking battery charge rate) it takes 150min to fully charge (not really, there is some factors that slow charge at closer to 100%, but you get my point). The other nice thing is that if my starter battery us kaput, I use my setup to start the car.

I've read that some are not to keen for fixed solar panels. Again my 2c.
I'm very pro solid solar panels on the roof.
Firstly they help charge while you drive. The alternator will always (setup dependant) first charge your factory starter battery before the second battery. Thus your solar panel will start charging the second battery whilst the alternator is busy with your starter battery.

Secondly they add to my alternator to supply the max charge rate to my 2x cranking batteries.(Alternator can pump out more that 30amps I know)

Thirdly they charge my batteries when you are in town to stock up on things (parking lot), or when you are waiting for game at the watering hole. Or waiting for that perfect photo to be taken.

Fourthly mine is removable (4x wingnuts), and has a 15m extension cable, so my car is parked in shade and they stand in sun. The solid panels are great as you prop them up with a stick for optimum sun angle (max charge).

My solar panels can theoretically put out ~ 16amps charge per hour (more than double my energy needs). I do my maths on 10amps per hour rather. Thus even if everything is running my batteries charge. In fact, because they except charge so rapidly, I don't think my voltmeter has ever shown anything less than 12.6volt during the day (I don't go look every minute). For this reason, my cranking batteries last (and they are much cheaper than a lot of deep cycles). We often times go multi-day bush camping...and if you are active with solar panel angulation (is that even a word?) the system can go on great.

Desperate times logic:
If my batteries have gone down to 80%charge level up to sunrise. It will take 10hours with all applications running to fully charge (taken with 10amp charge rate and not 16 amps) without any input from altenator. This incase car breakdown catastrophically and fridge has to run 12hrs straight.

I have 2 separate solar panels, if one breaks I still have 100watts (max 8amps charge given).

If one crank battery goes I still have 2 others I can use for the same application.

There are much better setups probably, but mine has never let me down, and we do a lot of remote camping. The other setups are also most definitely a lot more expensive. I do want a bigger fridge and a Lithium iron batteries - but truth be told I don't need them.

But with this said, I'm not an expert, and if anybody reads this and see I've missed the plot - in kindness correct me please.
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