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Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 20 Apr 2016 07:36
by Michael
ricster wrote:I have a set of KC's on my bullbar, wires to a separate switch that is again linked to the brights. So basically if I have my parking and main beams on ( KC's off ) and I push the light stick to put the brights on, then I can either have the KC switch on or off. I leave the KC switch in the ON position permanently so when I switch on the brights everything comes on, and off again if a car approaches from the front. The KC's are connected via a relay directly to the battery, with an activation feed from the old small gauge wire that was already there from the Patrols headlight connector if I recall correctly.

They are the standard Halogen type globes ( 130watt ), that I believe are not really legal, but are worth every cent and light up the road beautifully.

The only down side is that the are spot lights and not flood lights, so they tend to light up the road, but not much on the sides.

Power consumption.... who cares, I only use them when the motor is running, and the Alternator and Battery is more than capable of handling the extra power draw ( and the cabling too ).

The Patrol driving lights are Daybreakers from Osram ( Might be called Night breakers..... can't remember now )
So Cedric, does your main beams have to be on to be able to use your spot lights or can you use the spots without having to switch on the main beams?

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 20 Apr 2016 08:20
by Marino4x4
Hi

The diagram looks something like this:
relay-diagram.gif
relay-diagram.gif (16.38 KiB) Viewed 9646 times
Your High beam and the switch must be on for the spotlights to work. You can work the high beam without the spots, but the high beam must be on for the spots to work. Hope it makes sense. :think:

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 20 Apr 2016 08:38
by ricster
Main beams and brights must be on to have the spots working. Only then can I use the aftermarket switch to either switch the spots on or off.

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 20 Apr 2016 17:37
by Peter Connan
And the advantage of this is that you can dim all lights with just one movement.

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 20 Apr 2016 20:02
by Stefan
Makes perfect sense. And the driving lights, are they just on a switch?

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 20 Apr 2016 21:33
by SCUBA Patrol
Stefan, Gebruik dieselfde circuit as hierbo, net die "trigger" sal die ingnition wees sodat die ligte aan is as die motor loop, dus sal dit nie op die "dim-bright" circuit werk nie maar heeltemal apart van die res van die ligte. Dit is altyd 'n goeie idee om die ligte op 'n eie skakelaar te he indien dit afgesit moet word vir een of ander rede.

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 21 Apr 2016 05:53
by Michael
The down side is you cannot use the lights as working lights without switching on the main beams?

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 21 Apr 2016 08:23
by David M
Marino4x4 wrote:Hi

The diagram looks something like this:
relay-diagram.gif
Your High beam and the switch must be on for the spotlights to work. You can work the high beam without the spots, but the high beam must be on for the spots to work. Hope it makes sense. :think:
Of course you can fit a second switch on the line coming in from the hi/lo beam which takes it's power directly from the battery. Then you have the option of using the spots with the high beam or by themselves or even as worklights with the ignition off. You would connect it in parallel and not inline and after the hi/lo switch.

Cannot find a diagram on the internet.

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 21 Apr 2016 08:25
by ricster
As far as I know, and stand corrected, the way mine are connected is the "legal" way ( other than the wattage of the globes ) to have spots fitted and connected.

Not quite sure what you mean about " And the driving lights, are they just on a switch? "

Re: Driving - & Spotlights

Posted: 21 Apr 2016 08:32
by ricster
Just thinking here, but I wouldn't use the spots as working lights due to the power draw from 130 watt globes times 2.... 260watts also gets quite hot after a period of time, and my brain is saying that unless you are moving allowing airflow over the spots and wiring for that matter too, there could be some damage over time that may occur, as well as draining your battery. If you are using a light bar or LED spots... well that's a different story then. I have a fairly large Zartek rechargeable torch permanently in my car that I can use for a worklight if needed.
zartek.jpg
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