Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

I normally use the key remote to lock/unlock the car from the outside .

Lately I've noticed that my rear left door does not always lock properly, locks sort -off so when you lock the car and you try to open the door then it would clip to the halfway clip and lock, at least the door is not unsecured.

I also have noticed the driver's door lock thimble only moves about 70% of the way, the door is unlocked but from time to time if I close it then it will trigger the lock, luckily this have never happened while I'm on the outside.


My passenger door likes to do the limbo, so if I unlock the doors but the over hasty passenger pulls on the outside or inside handle then the lock is locked in limbo and does not open, the central locking / unlocking will not fix the problem and I need to lock/ unlock the door manually (door thimble) to get the central locking to kick in and work again.

I have no intent to replace 3 locks and considering an aftermarket system, I might even be able to wire in an aftermarket system using the existing circuitry. the actuators are actually very cheap. if wiring into is not that achievable then the aftermarket wiring is easy peasy and might just add an internal alarm. per se the Patrol does not actually have an alarm, only an immobilisers (maybe this is only the poor man's version GL) Also like to add a bleep to it. I already have an extra remote that I've wired to switch on the spot lights, internal lights and reverse lights. works great if you approach the car when parked in a dark alley.

Any suggestions, warnings success stories on the central locking issue?

Andries, I have had somewhat similar issues wih some doors, and sorted them by dismantling the actuator and applying some grease, and also oiling the door locks.

However, mine is a lot older than yours, and I am wondering if the lubrication can fail that quickly?

Andries - try cheapest remedy first: where the wiring goes into the door SHOULD be a connecting bundle plug [with a type of screw cap ] unscrew the cap, gently remove -- then spray liberally with ELECTRO KLEEN or similar and check if all them pluggies are still fitting tightly... [long nose pliers should do trick] also check wires going in for proper connection.

if no improvement - -the you listen to P C

I think it might just be the actuators if you want a sound just put a siren on it ......or like piet says a bit of lube????

I'll check the locks, I have a feeling the actuator might be part of the lock and not separate. Inside the driver kick panel is also a fairly hefty electrical plug and I've heard off instances where it goes loose.

Interesting something I've seen on many an aftermarket system is that some actuators stop working - somehow always the back doors, might be a case where the doors are not locked / unlocked that often - i.e. system where you driver door open and second press opens the rest.

I've found that the actuator's little motors almost needs a run in of the crude brushes again - almost as if the small movement of the actuator with only a small number of turns on the motor is detrimental to it. I used to disassemble the unit and then run the motor both ways for a minute or so an then teh problem is solved for another year.

Andries I have excatly same problem. Back left door - I have to lock it manually so would be very interested in a solution. Peter, wish you could visit :-)

Out of interest sake we have 8 Nissan Navaras on site (2013 models). In 4 of them the back right electric windows mechanisms have failed. But it's not a factory fault .... WTF

OK die Trol se actuators gee ook problem, hoe kry ek die agterste deure se covering af? Ek kry nie armleuning (arm rest) af waar onder die skroewe sit nie! Het die voorstes af gekry, maar sukkel met die agterstes! Enige raad!!!

Ok had a chat to graham the doors sentral locking works with standard 2 wire push pull soliniod only the driver door has 4 wires he uses a after market one and gets fitted for R420 it even works on the rear door so no need to change locks ect

I also replaced some of mine when I bought Chuck years ago. The aftermarket ones are cheap and work well.

As Tinus & Graham said: the 4-wire one is the master (it uses the extra wires to signal the slaves) and the 2-wire ones are the slaves (they do what the master does). The other two wires on the master is used for remote unlocking when you use an alarm module pulse (as opposed to a key) to lock/unlock all doors - in that case it acts like the slaves do...