Voltages on MAF?

[Blitzpatrollie]

Hi guys,

Okay I saw a thread somewhere that indicated what your 4 wires on the MAF sensor, should read, voltage wise. They indicated that from left to right (looking into the back of the plug), the readings are as follows:

1.6-2.0V on the left
5.0V on the next one
3rd one is ground
4th one should give battery voltage.

It says that the voltage on the left one should increase when engine revs increase.

I tested with my multimeter, while idling, and could not a get a stable reading on either of them. The multimeter screen just jumps/cycles from 1.0V to 13.0V very quickly that you don't have time to read one reading before it changes. I then tested the battery voltage just to make sure the multimeter is not stuffed, read normally, no jumping.

Then I turned the engine off, and turned ignition key to ON position.

This time, the voltages read as follows:

1.01V on the left
4.96V on the next
3rd is ground
12.49V on the right

My question is, should the readings jump like this while engine is running? Or does this indicate a faulty MAF sensor?

[Stefan]

Hi Gavin,

I don't know about the pins, but I would suggest that a multi-meter is not the right tool to measure the voltage change. If I were you I would take the car to someone who can put it on a Dyno.

[Blitzpatrollie]

Hi Stefan,

Sharp, I need to do that anyway. Does any tune up centre know how to tune on the dyno? My knowledge of THAT kind of thing is very limted... Steves Auto comes to mind but I'm a little annoyed with them, went there to have it dyno'ed last year, and without even looking at the troll, told me I need a chip and a freeflow. I already had a freeflow. That makes me quite the moer in, the 4.8 should be a beast without a chip.

Battling with power on uphills...

A multimeter is fine to read the voltages as described. That's how its done. I just wanna know if my jumping voltages are okay or if this indicates a faulty MAF sensor.

One thing though, I didn't have the van in neutral and apparently it should be in neutral to test. Don't see how this should make any difference, but will try early in the morning and post results.

[Tony]

Talk to Steven at Rob Green Motorsport he is a genuinely nice guy, and performance is his game. Unlike those ou's at SAC, Steven listens to you and he really knows his stuff when it comes to Dyno tuning.

[Tony]

Oops, you're in Nelspruit and they're in Randburg - problem!

[Blitzpatrollie]

Lol!! Thanks anyway Tony ;)

[Peter Connan]

As far as I know, there is very little that can be adjusted on a standard 4.8, thus the reason for the chip...

You need somebody to diagnose rather than tune?

[Blitzpatrollie]

Im thinking both actually, as I say i dont know much about how the dyno works as ive never done it before. Can any dyno/tuning centre diagnose problems on our trolls?? Because then i can take it to some places in Nelspruit.

[Blitzpatrollie]

Okay tested this morning with transmission in neutral. All voltages are normal. Left wire reads 1.55V at idle, and climbs steadily with rev increase to about 5V.

We move on... :)

[Tinus lotz]

Ok had a chat with graham this morning. ...if your maf is faulty,your car will start and turn of straight away is very important NEVER to touch the element with your finger or any tool if you had a leak on your aircleaner line and you want to clean it the it out , making sure not to touch the element give it a good spray of carb cleaner put it straight back start the car to ensure a good flow of air over it to remove any cleaning fluid ref it for a while to make sure all is off please dont put multi meters on plugs the changes of blowing the control units are very good if you make a short
Hope it helps
I really think before you go to far get the car on a proper scan tool and see if milli seconds ect is correct
It might be the cam timing is slightly out from streching mine had to be tweaked and made the world of difference
Mabe your feul filter or pressure is off and when you need the feul it cant deliver????
Hope it helps
Tinus