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How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 00:46
by tour de frans
Good day.
By now you all know my beautifull 4.2 turbo diesel died. I am all to blame. Not the engine or the mods done to it. We all know the 4.2 are over designed and very strong. That is why they can take whatever we do to it or how hard we drive it. One problem they have, is to keep them cool. My 4.2 ran hot without the turbo. Therefore I build a radiator so big it was almost impossible to fit it. The same time I turbo charged the engine. I was fedup driving it flatout in fourth gear to maintain 120kph. 33" tyres. The turbo made a huge difference, I could coast in 5th gear at a 140kph. The fuel consumption stayed the same 6.5km/l. The car still ran hot, only when I worked it.
My engine made 140kw and 430nm. My aim were 150kw and 500nm. It probably made more than what the dyno said, I could not get the boost, to boost properly on the dyno. Reason for that, there is not enough load, the wheels spin up to fast. On the road, the car made full boost. I could have ran it in 4 wheel drive on the dyno, but it is to late now, I will never know.
Nissan say the white section of the heat guage are normal working temp. Me, Frans say BULL@#$%. I fitted a mechanical guage and with the heat guage under half, it were normal, yes. With the heat guage on its way to the halfway mark, the mechanical guage say 100deg. Still a long way to the red. 3/4 the mechanical guage say 115deg, still in the white. Fully in the white, 120deg. No engine can stay alive at 120deg. That is why the AC turn off, when things get a little hot.
Therefore i fitted a bypass on the back of the head to get the hot water faster out of the head into the radiator. Also I made the waterpump pully smaller to speed up the waterpump and the fan. I fitted a bigger fanblade. All that worked and the car stayed cool. Only when I worked it very hard, the water temp went to 100deg. It was much better, but I did not like it. A oilcooler was the next step.
Anywhy, on the way back from the long weekend, towing my explorer van @ 150/160kph, I know it is stupid to drive that fast, but I drove the road open. Cars were travelling 90kph and caused a huge pile up on the highway. I could hate that.
Everything were normal, EGT 610deg, boost 1bar, heat normal. Negotiating my way through the traffic at high speed, not looking at the guages, the car must have started overheating without me knowing of it. I am not looking for any excuses, it must have happend over the last 3km.
The car slowed down so fast, I do not know if I can hit the brakes that hard. The engine ceased. On the way to the side of the road, I noticed both the guages were pegged in the red. Water ran out of the exhaust and the overflow bottle was steaming. Oil were all over the engine bay. The same day the engine broke, me and Pieter pulled the engine out. Dankie Pieter. While we were doing that, the wife was unpacking the caravan and Patrol.
I am not going to post pics, I am not going to open the engine, it will go to the dumps. I will not fit a TD42, obviously I can not fix the overheating problem. I will not spend another penny trying that.
I am not sure what engine i am going to convert into the Patrol, but I will keep you posted on the new transplant.
The diesel td42 guys,keep it cool. :thumbup: Read on the ozzy forum how they struggle to keep them cool.
I also can not badmouth the 4.2 it gave me great driving pleasure. :salute:
Rdgs
Frans

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 07:08
by David
Frans - ek voel jou pyn! Jammer om te hoor van die 'bad-luck' nou net toe ek dink die 4.2 is uit ge-sort! :thumbdown:

Miskien is dit nou tyd vir so 'n bietjie petrol deur daai Patrol se are! :eureka:

Sterkte!

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 07:52
by Theuhan
Net toe ek dink ek wil maar vir my n 4.2td in sit.

Ek kan nie wag om te sien wat jy gaan gebruik nie.

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 08:08
by JG Shields
Frans, ek is regtig jammer om dit te hoor. Dit laat my so baie aan my ZD30 se laaste oomblikke dink. Ek was besig om so lekker te "cruise" @ 120km/h en besig op die telefoon met Koos Best. Die verkoeler het 'n klein gaatjie in gekry, water verloor en whal...la! Die volgende oomblik toe klink dit of daar 'n swerm bye iewers in my kar nesmaak. Dit was die stoom wat orals uitgeblaas het. My enjin het egter nog nie ge "seeze" nie en het eintlik nog glad geloop.

Ek het nou al bykans 43000km met my oorgeplante 4.8 enjin gery, probleemvry. Ek moet egter byvoeg dat die 4.8 se verkoeling self ook baie goed dopgehou moet word. Die standaard 4.8 het 2 elektriese waaiers voor die verkoeler. Myne, as 'n oud ZD30, het slegs een. Ek het pas agtergekom dat die waaier nie werk nie (elektriese foutjie). Sodra ek in dag temperature bo 30gr in stilstaande verkeer "crawl", is die naald geneig om effens na bo te verskuif. Ek was van mening dat die elektriese waaier slegs daar is om die lugvloei aan te help wanneer die AC aangeskakel is. Dis nie waar nie. Sodra 'n voertuig baie stadig "crawl", veral onder toestande waar die enjin revolusies ook laag is en die vicus nie wesenlik suig nie, is daar eenvoudig nie genoeg lugvloei oor die verkoeler nie. Die elektriese waaiers is dan uiters belangrik. Ek is in die proses om sommer die 2e waaier ook in te bou.

Sterkte met jou besluite Frans.

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 08:47
by Russ Kellermann
jees,thats hectic, im sorry to read this Frans. But, it reiterates my reasoning for keeping a vehicle stock standard. You mentioned that your standard 4.2 battled to keep 120km/h in fourth, maybe the motor had already seen compression loss in those early days then before you started the mods?,Because mine runs an easy 120km/h with 285's (33"s) , and fifth gear , no problems, and i got zero mods on mine, so that is interesting.

It seems you like speed and towing trailers, and from what i read, both at the same time! So why not rather put a big petrol motor in there, less heat, more power, and you can still play around with them if you want to i guess, and, 190kw is sufficient to tow something at 160km/h.!!!

I hope you'll still be interested in repairing and working on others 4.2D, cause one day i/we might need you to help out on mine/ours, so i hope you not washing your hands of all 4.2D Frans!!!! :biggrin:

Keep us posted.
Russ

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 08:49
by G-MAN
More Frans. Jammer om oor jou lorrie te hoor... :doh:

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 10:42
by Jules
Hi Frans

Jammer om te hoor van jou skade man, hoop jy kom binnekort in jou Patrollie met n lekka enjin voor jou. Sterkte met jou besluitneming oor watter roete jy gaan volg ( Petrol/Diesel ). Ek het regtig gedink daardie 4.2 is onbreekbaar.

Shalom
Jules

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 11:06
by Peter Connan
Frans, I am so sorry to hear this. It just proves that the best of us also make mistakes.

Gentlemen
This may be slightly off-topic, but maybe it isn't either?

There seem to be a lot of guys with a lot of different engines having problems with overheating? I know my Y60 4.2 Petrol battles, particularly when working hard at low speeds, for example in deep sand or steep trials. I have tried various things, but while each thing has probably resulted in a slight improvement, I am still not where I need to be. Things I have done include getting the radiator cleaned, replacing the thermostat, checking the water pump, replacing the viscous fan with 2 electric fans running on a sequential switch, and checking that the float level is on the richer side of the tolerance. coming back from Hibberdene on Sunday I again had some issues when overtaking up the hills in the pass, at one stage I think I even got a partial vapour lock in the fuel system :thumbdown:

It seems to me that the underbonnet temperatures on my car are higher than most cars I have owned, but this is subjective as I haven't actually measured though? :think: Iam almost tempted to remove the bonnet :lol:

Is this overheating a problem with all engines in the Patrol, and is there any way to cure the problem? It is really starting to look to me like this is the Patrol's Achilles' heel?

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 11:59
by Jules
Hi Peter

Temp- and Oil readings is something I keep a close eye on, my Patrol runs very low temp, the highest it has climbed was just under halfway, working in sand northern Mozambique in December, fortunately we did not drive to far in the thick sand. But yes I have notized moving very slow for long periods ( game reserve ) it also tends to creep closer to halfway. I will then drive a while at recommended 40km/h for a period until airflow has cooled down enjin sufficiently.

My vehicle is currently in for service and one of the things I have asked for is a radiator flush so will see if that also helps in keeping enjin temp at normal levels. Hope they can sort out the sometimes jerkyness.

To be honest I am getting rather scared for any diesel at this moment

Shalom
Jules

Re: How to kill a 4.2 turbo engine

Posted: 29 Sep 2010 21:25
by Saltman
Agteros skrik ook wakker!

Jammer om van jou moles te hoor Frans!
Dit bly maar 'n sleg gevoel - daai gevoel hier op die pit van jou maag as jy daai gauges in die rooi sien!

Ek sien die manne kla oor enjin en enjin kompartement temperature.
Ek sal graag wil hoor van die 4.8 manne, want ek het nog nie so iets teegekom met daai groot ses petrol masjien nie.
Ek sleep 'n Imagine trailvan, ons is gewoonlik 5 in die motor en daar is 'n dakrak en 285/75/16 MTR's en dan ry ons so 130 km/h op die GPS.
Selfs as ons sleep in diep warm sand het ek nog selde enige temperatuur naald variasie gesien. Dit kan nou beteken dat die naald hopeloos te onsensitief is vir enige hoe temperatuur veranderings of dit beteken die 4.8 se verkoeling is uitgesort en werk goed! Ek is aan laasgenoemde se kant!!!

Frans, waarnatoe staan jou kop? Wat oorweeg jy? Petrol of diesel en hoeveel silinders?
Laat weet maar as jy iets soek waarmee ons miskien kan help!

Voorspoed
Herbie