Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

Dave, dont forget to insist they skim the flywheel too.

I'm reading these threads wil a frown on my face??

My 2000 4.2D GL has done 586000km and havent replaced the clutch yet.
(Do have some increasing vibration transfer from engine to drivetrain at low revs though)

Very well done Rudolph

ongelooflik Rudolf , hou haar aan die gang

Dungbeetle wrote:I'm reading these threads wil a frown on my face??

My 2000 4.2D GL has done 586000km and havent replaced the clutch yet.
(Do have some increasing vibration transfer from engine to drivetrain at low revs though)

i hear you brother. Im bleak because there is nothing wrong with my clutch at the mom and it feels like it could go on forever, never had a moments worry or sli; or anything, ...but, in the greater scheme of things it IS better to suck it up and replace will box is out.

Just to check here guys, what are the items that need to be ordered when i ask nissan for my replacement clutch:

(Ie: Clutch plate ; Pressure Plate and release bearing ?) or is there more ?.....

SiasKarsten wrote:Just to check here guys, what are the items that need to be ordered when i ask nissan for my replacement clutch:

(Ie: Clutch plate ; Pressure Plate and release bearing ?) or is there more ?.....

Hi Russ

When it comes to a clutch it pretty much comes in one package/kit with all these other goodies (release bearing, pressure plate, etc.) directly related to the entire clutch replacement in that kit...if that is how I understand your question. What you can ask for in addition to this is a good/meticulous mechanic that fits all nuts and bolts where they were meant to be and ensures they are all tight! I had front brake pads replaced a while back by a "mechanic" who did not tighten the bolts holding the caliper assembly into position on the front hub/disk all beacuse I did not have time to do it myself. I was not a happy man when a loud noise and clanging in the front of my vehicle led me to discover this assembly had moved out of position....needless to say since then I make time to do these type of smaller jobbies myself but would never tackle a clutch!

I assure you the moment after all this had been done you will forget about all the drama in getting there. Last week I was the moer in with my Patrol because I missed out on a off road drive because my front hubs were dead. Tuesday the new hubs were fitted by NISSAN and what a brilliant weekend I had in the bush after we had an entire weeks rain before this. I put mud in every corner of that machine....it was a k*k job cleaning though. Took me 2 hours to clean with pressure cleaner but was worth it. I regained all lost faith in my Trollie because there were a few other guys who also messed around but I just lost it man...many of them actually stopped riding and watched me go ape sh*t and have fun. They really are brilliant machines and in the hands of a capable driver will literally be able to drive anywhere!

Good luck with that repair!

dungbeetle - i am also surprised... I think Grant also got great mileage out of his clutch?

I would say 500k km is rather the exception than the norm though. Have you had your patrol from new?

The life of a clutch is extremely dependent on your driving style. I agree that 580k km is exceptional though. But with the bottom-end of the normally-aspirated TD42, it is possible to make a clutch last a very long time indeed.

Further, you can normally buy a clutch either as loose components or as a complete kit (I am not sure what Nissan's approach to this is though).

Personally, I am fairly light on clutches, and therefore if I was in Rus's situation, I would replace the following components out of hand:
1) The release bearing.
2) The spigot shaft bearing. This is not always part of a clutch kit.

I would them measure how much friction material is left (before the rivets will start touching the flywheel or pressure plate), and compare that to the thickness on a new clutch plate. By doing this you can get an accurate idea of how long your clutch should last, and base your decision on this.

If I cedided to keep the clutch plate and pressure plate, and there is no evidence of an oil leak from the rear crank oil seal, I would not even have the flywheel removed, as this is the only way to guarantee that there is no possibility of introducing a clutch judder.

If however I decided to replace the clutch plate, I would also replace the pressure plate and all the oil seals in the area (crankshaft and gearbox input shaft), and have the flywheel skimmed.

Thanks for that advice connan.

Dont worry if you guys get that type of kilos. My Navara 4l only got 80 000kms before it went. At R8000 to replace it is not a joke and Nissan wiped itself on me