Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

Russ Kellermann wrote: ↑25 Jun 2021 17:41 Agree with what pete has said, and lastly , to add, just make sure your tyres are PERFECTLY balanced, even if you thnk they are, get them checked, and if they holding too much lead, optimize the tyre/rim, by getting them to clock it 90' on the rim, until it uses as little weight as possible.

This, for me, has always made the biggest difference, in addition to the other proven measures mentioned.

"Clock it 90". I do so hope the fitment centre knows what this means, cause i don't I'm not going to lie, i thought the balancing machine would always be spot on. Learnt something new.
It has HT tyres at the moment, will try for a new set AT/MT and get the guys to balance/align.

Spike wrote: ↑26 Jun 2021 08:54

kyzah wrote: ↑24 Jun 2021 14:17 Any of you guys have experience with getting parts for this in SA?
Or better to import a kit like:

https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/prod ... -01842..__

I buy from onlineautoparts. Painless, cheap, and quick. Waaaay cheaper and less hassle than buying locally

Just a few things I learned with them:
1. The first time you buy they will want to verify that you aren't a scammer. They reverse a few bucks on your purchase and you must get back to them to tell them how much was reversed. I wasn't expecting that and lost a day of delivery time because I didn't check my email. I contacted the guy to say our forex system is a bit antiquated and it will take forever to see a reversal, and sent him a screen shot of my payment which he accepted. Subsequent purchases were no problem. So just be aware of possible hitches first time round
2. Select DHL for courier. They sort all the import red tape efficiently. Within 24 hours they will contact you to arrange payment of import duties already (which is just VAT)
3. Just buy enough stuff to warrant the courier cost.

This was super helpful. I also found them to be very competitive priced. But its good to know they do international well. I have emailed them now as I cannot choose a delivery method, so i'm hoping its a verification thing.

kyzah wrote: ↑28 Jun 2021 22:07

Spike wrote: ↑26 Jun 2021 08:54

kyzah wrote: ↑24 Jun 2021 14:17 Any of you guys have experience with getting parts for this in SA?
Or better to import a kit like:

https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/prod ... -01842..__

I buy from onlineautoparts. Painless, cheap, and quick. Waaaay cheaper and less hassle than buying locally

Just a few things I learned with them:
1. The first time you buy they will want to verify that you aren't a scammer. They reverse a few bucks on your purchase and you must get back to them to tell them how much was reversed. I wasn't expecting that and lost a day of delivery time because I didn't check my email. I contacted the guy to say our forex system is a bit antiquated and it will take forever to see a reversal, and sent him a screen shot of my payment which he accepted. Subsequent purchases were no problem. So just be aware of possible hitches first time round
2. Select DHL for courier. They sort all the import red tape efficiently. Within 24 hours they will contact you to arrange payment of import duties already (which is just VAT)
3. Just buy enough stuff to warrant the courier cost.

This was super helpful. I also found them to be very competitive priced. But its good to know they do international well. I have emailed them now as I cannot choose a delivery method, so i'm hoping its a verification thing.

I have received a reply from www.onlineautoparts.com.au, "Thank you for the email unfortunately due to the pandemic we are not able to send stuff to south Africa.".
That is bit of a bummer.

kyzah wrote: ↑28 Jun 2021 22:01

Russ Kellermann wrote: ↑25 Jun 2021 17:41 Agree with what pete has said, and lastly , to add, just make sure your tyres are PERFECTLY balanced, even if you thnk they are, get them checked, and if they holding too much lead, optimize the tyre/rim, by getting them to clock it 90' on the rim, until it uses as little weight as possible.

This, for me, has always made the biggest difference, in addition to the other proven measures mentioned.

"Clock it 90". I do so hope the fitment centre knows what this means, cause i don't I'm not going to lie, i thought the balancing machine would always be spot on. Learnt something new.
It has HT tyres at the moment, will try for a new set AT/MT and get the guys to balance/align.

It means to totate the tire on the rim by 90 degrees. If the rim is slightly un-balanced, and the tire is too, and both in the same direction, then it requires a huge amount of weight to get the assembly balanced, but if you turn the tire so that the balance point of the tire is opposite that of the wheel, it will take a lot less weight.

Unfortunately there are not many tire shops prepared to go to that much trouble unless you ride them...

Its time for a service, this weekend hopefully. I've read a few posts here with wrt service items. Though i am not sure if the items are correct, the rear diff and transfer case in particular is a bit confusing.
I have the GUD Z188 diesel filter.
GUD Z153 oil filter.
Need to get an air filter from Nissan.
Gearbox using Castrol GL-4 80w90.
Front diff oil Castrol Axle EPX 80W-90. Will complete when I do the swivel rebuild.
I've read, the transfer case could take Dex III or gearbox oil. I was thinking of draining it; if red then get Dex III, if black use gearbox oil. Could this be a good approach to take? Is there way to tell which oil to use?
For the rear diff which i believe is limited slip; Castrol AXLE EPX 85W140 should be a choice. But it does not say LSD. Am i overthinking this? https://autozone.co.za/castrol-axle-epx ... l-12109810

LSD diffs are a tricky one, and I've heard that if the wrong oil is used then the LSD fails, and draining, flushing a few times can repair the problem, but I'm not sure if it ever works as well as it would initially. I've never had an LSD, so I'm maybe not the best person to give advice.

I think your approach for the transfer case is good. Smell might also help identify it.

As for the rear diff, if it has an LSD that oil will not work. You need one with a friction modifier. Hard to find and I know some time ago it was only available in 20l cans. Perhaps Ant or Michael can help you?

For the limited slip diff I bought at Midas - 5l R446

Castrol - Axzle Z Limited Slip 90.

Have been using it to flush mine 2 or 3 times after incorrect oil was added, definitely better, but I am sure it will never probably be 100% the way it should be, so make sure u put in the correct oil.

If you don't have a diff-lock button - then LSD.....

If you need a pick drop me a watsup and I will send to you zero82 94zero 792one

Hi guys. This post is a long time coming.
Cant seems to capture all the things in want to share, but here goes it.
Rebuilt the front axle seals and bearings, panhard bushes and a few other small things. Took me a many weekends, sometimes just a few hours a day to complete. A huge thanks to the guys who contribute to these forums, especially the death wobble, wheel bearing and seal post. I have re-read these post so many times, and each instance i gained a new understanding.
And some lessons i learnt by trial and error. The split pin of the tie rods, not necessary to flatten the pin completely. Hold with pliers and gently use hammer on pliers will take it out. And rags, many of them. This is a dirtiest job if the axle seal was shot
Panhard rod, not necessary to remove the left(drives side).
And some stuff, i just had to figure it out.
Using a rope to hold the wheel hub whilst undoing the bolts worked out pretty easy and well.
The longest time was trying to remove the king pin bearings. Eventually, i learnt having the right tools like a bearing puller makes stuff like this so much less painful.
Also, a bearing & seal insert tool. Lifesavers
And do not throw away parts
Took Nissan 2 months to get a new set of grease seals.

Fantastic Post !!.... Keep them coming !!