Nissan Patrol 4x4 (Africa)

mORNING ALL

Just some feedback, early this morning while most of you were still sleeping Gerrit and myself lifted my Lorrie on axle stands. We checked the 4x4 system for any noises by driving it on the axle stands, first 4x4 Hi and then 4x4 Lo, no noise at all. The left wheel where they replaced the whealbearing sometime back does not have a click into 4x4 as the right wheel does, I have never spun my wheels running freely like this but they felt a bit stiff, you would turn the wheel and it would come to a stop quicker than what I thouht it would ( Gerrit also not sure if this is normal ). I also put the vehicle in reverse but still no noise of something wantingg to break.

After all this checking on the axle stands we dropped the vehicle thinking with load on the system the noise would resurface but no luck, in either 4x4 Hi or Lo, we even locked the hubs and not putting it in 4x4 , as well as not locking the hubs and put it in 4x4.

We then had an icecold Castle and Gerrit said maybe when they replaced the whealbearing they did not put everything back properly and that the spring that needs to push the manual hub into position does not always work 100%. So now I must decide whether to take it back to the workshop that worked on it last or someone else ??


Shalom
Jules

Hello Jules
Wheelbearings should be fairly tight, the wheel should not spin like a roulette wheel or something. I once had a VW factory workshop manual for VW Golfs, on the rear wheel (which has no drive mechanism, and much smaller bearings than a Troll) they actually gave a torque that for turning the brake drum (hub) when the bearings were correctly tensioned.

I think Gerrit may be right. Whther to take it back is a difficult question. If it were me, I would tackle it myself, and probably not take it back unless I knew that mechanic well and was generally very happy with his work.

Cheers
Peter

Good morning
When replacing the wheel bearings people usually don't work on the manual locking hub as well. You need to take the manual lock off (with 6 allan key bolts) before you get to the wheel bearings. It could be that the manual lock is dirty and that the part that slides to engage with the driveshaft doesn't move enough to engage. You can take the manual lock off (6 allan key bolts) without removing the wheel and you can check whether it is working or not. You can dismantle the manual lock as well and clean it and lubricate it so that it slides properly again. I've done this about 10 years ago on my Safari so I can't exactly remember how to dismantle, but it is easy to do. The other problem that can cause the knocking is that the splines on the manual lock or on the driveshaft are worn out. This will make that the driveshaft's splines jumps over the manual lock's splines causing the knock sound.
Regards
Johan

Jules, didnt you have some overheating problems a while back? Did you fix it? That surely overstressed your hub...
Out of curiosity: Stock calipper pistons?
I agree with johanp, it is most probable your free wheels. Do what I do: TAKE THEM APART!
All you need is to take the 6 allen screws off and look at it. Here you go:

Hi JoseM that was the right front hub that I thought got very hot but when I felt how hot Gerrit & Donald's Patrols front hubs were after we travelled the same distance mine was not as hot as theirs, my Lorrie is going to a new mechanic on Wednesday so hopefully he will find a solution to some of the few niggles I have currently.

Should one use Marine Grease instead of normal grease since one do sometimes travel through water?

Shalom

Good luck! I kindda gave up on mechanics... I figured, if it is gonna get screwed up, I rather screw it up myself It doesn't sound like you have too much of a problem. Keep us posted
I've heard some of the guys talk about watter resistant grease and marine grease, I've never used it so there is very little I can tell you; however, having marine grease does not mean that watter doesn't come in, and with that mud, and that is when the problems start -- see, there's no deep mud in see watter .
What I do is add some heat resistant sealant on the edges of the hub and install it like that, so far so good. My problem is usually the transfer and diferential, from where I end up taking all kinds of mud... And yes, I do have my breathers way up high within the cabin, but it always finds its way in...

Gents that horrible noise/slippage is back. I went today to put my lorrie in 4x4 to grease everything and get it runnin smooth again. Unfortunately after a very short period I heard that horrible noise as if I am hitting a rock with the front diff. First I thougt I did hit a rock in teh sand but then it happened again and again. It is as if something is slipping, a friend of mine had a similar noise on his hardbody when he engaged 4x4 unfortunately he is out of rsa so not available. I guess i will have to get the front hubs dismantled so they can check if there are any wornout parts.

Need to sort this out seeing that the 60th birthday bash is around the corner

Shalom
Jules

Morning Gents

It seems the previous mech had put the Bushing the wrong way around when they had re-asembled the manual locking hub and the result was the mechanism was slipping. What is rather disturbing is one can clearly see how this Bushing was forced into place by hitting it with a screwdriver in front of hammer, you can clearly see the indents of the screwdriver on the steel. My vehicle is still with the current workshop but checking a few other things.

Will keep you posted.

Shalom

Eish Jules

I hate butchers! Why is it easier for so many of these guys to use a hammer than a brain?

Has anything been damaged by the slippages?

Hi Peter, no it does not seems as anything was damaged.

Shalom