The 3.0 GU Engine

Engines and Engine Systems
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Peter Connan
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by Peter Connan »

Alex, yes those were my own and no, the 4.5 is not included in that count.

I guess whether it should be is a contentious point, but to my mind the fact that the gearbox, mountings, exhaust and all ancilliaries are the same between the 4.2 and 4.5 means that it is basically a bolt-in.

The fact that i could not obtain the correct inlet manifold, mechanical fuel pump and distributor at the time (although they do exist as the 4.5 was fitted with the same carburettor in certain other markets) can be used to argue the opinion that this is indeed a conversion, in which case i may well just have shown myself to be hippocryte once again?

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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by Johann 1984 »

Big Red,

I feel your frustration. Two years ago I had to do an engine replacement, engine block and all, on a Subaru Impreza WRX STi. It cost me 80 000 Rand. Then the radiator had to be replaced, 5k, then the steering rack and pump, 9k, then went the clutch, 20k. When I had to replace the Brembo brakes they quoted me 25k for the lot. I traded the Scoob in for the Patrol. Now, it seems, I'm heading in that direction again.

I read the Aussie forums very comprehensively in the last couple of weeks. they describe the Direct Injection Intercooled ZD30 as the worst diesel engine ever made. I also find that Nissans' way of dealing with the issue is nothing short of scandalous. Instead of recognizing their design flaws they tried to dodge the issue. My best mates Cruizer 76 broke a gearbox in the Richtersveld. It was 10 000 km out of factory warranty. Toyota replaced his gearbox at no cost and no questions asked. A small design flaw on the 2007 model, but they have pride in their product. I am sorry, but this whole debate on the ZD30 has changed my mind. This morning I drove past a 4.8 and throught, 'what a beast'. My heart is still in Patrol, but I have zero confidence in this engine. Enough of this rant.

I assume that my Gen 111 ZD30 will also explode as there are recorded instances of this generation also blowing out on the Aussie forums. Even if it's a 2013 model, it shares the same design as the early 2000 models. The Aussies had the CRD by 2007 already. Thus, I am stuck with the same time bomb. Once again, I assume it will also explode, so I took out an extended aftermarket warranty that will cover me with R50 000 worth of engine cover until end 2018. I hope this is enough.

The engine is starting to use oil. It troubles me.Only 84 000 km on the clock.

Very disappointing.
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by JoshJ »

Mine used oil right from the start. Using oil is not a bad thing. It all depends on how much oil. I drive mine hard. So it goes out the breather and out the exhaust. I use anything from 500ml to a 1 liter over 15000km. From what I hear. That is okay
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by ra_01 »

I am on 51000km and it uses lot of oil. After a trip to Sani pass, I noticed the coolant level in the reservoir was low, which is bit odd. I asked Nissan to test for pressure leaks and they found nothing.

I guess it all depends on how you drive it.
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by SJC »

My 4.2 does not use oil. But then I do change the oil every 5k km...
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Johann 1984
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by Johann 1984 »

Thank You kindly for the replies. It does make me feel better. Mine also used oil since buying it on 30 000 km's. It's not a lot. But I compare it to my YD25 Hardbody that was a workhorse and worked very hard. Up and until 60 000 km when I sold it, not a drop oil added or used between service intervals.

All & all said, I hope I'm making a mountain out of a mole-heap. The engine doesn't smoke, doesn't leak oil. In the cold Kimberley mornings I do idle it for about 20 minutes prior to driving. Perhaps it also uses some oil there.

Thanks again :thumbup:
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by SCUBA Patrol »

Johann, do not idle the engine to heat up for that long when cold or for any matter, there is your problem, you might have glazed the cylinder sleeves? Frans can explain that a lot better. It is better to start and drive off lightly until the engine reaches operating temperature.

On my VG30 engine it is a common problem the glazing for the cylinder sleeves, I used to put 500ml of oil every 1000 -1500 km if i remember correctly and the engine never missed a beat. so be careful of idling an engine for long periods of time.
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by Michael »

Johann, I agree with Scuba, its really not good for an engine to warm up before you drive. This glazes the sleeves which lowers compression and elevates oil consumption over time.

This does not mean it has alreasy happened to your engine.
Also on a turbo engine it is 100% normal if it uses oil because of the breather system that feeds through the intake.
It also depends how hard you drive.
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by Johann 1984 »

Thank You Michael en Scuba. Point taken. I will immediatley stop doing it. I actually thought I did the engine a favour by driving it warm. I normally press the 'heat' button so that it idles at higher revolutions. Thanks for the good advice. You guys are all very helpful.
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Re: The 3.0 GU Engine

Post by Michael »

No problem Johann, it is also something I have leard from my dad who is a mechanic.

If I am not mustaken it actually sais that in the owners manual as well, not sure.
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