Easy Difflock check/test ?

[Marino4x4]

Hi

As dit die skakelaar is kan n mens dit vervang met die reverse skakelaar op die Nissan 1400 bakkie. Die pennetjie is bietjie korter op die skakelaar, maar verder is alles dieselfde. Ek het 1 sommer by Midas gekoop vir R75 of so.

Sterkte

[jan.dup]

Ek het die difflock die naweek getoets en hy werk beslis nie. Ek het die werkswinkelbestuurder by Nissan gebel en hy se dat die difflock net in low range sal werk (het dit in low range ook getoets maar dit werk nie) - maar sover my kennis strek is dit mos nie die geval nie ?

Sover ek dit het werk die Patrol se difflock in 4x4 H en L ?

[Peter Connan]

Jannie, tell that service manager to read his manual rather than to guess?

Diff lock works in High and Low.

[Jules]

Kan nie glo hul sit sulke idiote in sulke posisies nie, ek wonder wat sal die dom d#nner sê as ons GQ ouens vir hom vertel ons lorries se difflock werk ook in 4x2, shame die arme drommel sal seker n hartaanval kry

Shalom

[jan.dup]

Julle kan dit weer se. My m**r flikker nou net so dik soos my diflock liggie

[Alex Roux]

Possible causes:
1) The switch on the dashboard not working (loose wire)?
2) The actuator switch is broken? (a solenoid switch on the engine firewall - left side when looking forward)
3) Leak in the vacuum pipe?
4) We have already eliminated the indicator switch since you say the diff lock definitely does not work

Any other causes Peter?

For 2) - Remove the two little rubber pipes on the actuator switch and check whether the alternating one sucks when turning the switch inside the vehicle (only when in 4x4 with your Y61 of course!)
Have a look at the following link: http://www.patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.ph ... 3&start=10
Note ChristoSlang's picture of how the whole system works.

Diff lockers is a specialized area, so the average Nissan mechanic would be clueless. They wanted to replace my actuator switch (for R11,000!), when in fact only that little Nissan reverse light indicator switchie at the back was at fault.

Having said that, the vacuum system is far from robust, and if I had the money and had done everything else I still want to do to my car, I would not have hesitated to install proper air lockers. But if well looked after, and as Peter says, if you activate the switch once in a while to keep the moving parts working, then it should last a long time.

And of course if the locker is not raped with some overly aggressive driving...
I am beginning to think that the diff lock system on the Nissan drivetrain is deliberately designed to be its weakest link. So that nothing else will break? You can always drive home with a broken diff lock....

[Chopper]

Hi Gents,
For Some reason ,I can recall having been told that the difflock on the newer models only engages in low range, it will flicker in high and 4x2.

I have a 06 grx and I "think" this is indeed the case. However , I did have a vacuum pump issue which nissan quoted a discounted price of R 3500,
I opened it up and serviced it myself with no problems since.

Will confirm today, and remain at the mercy of the critics till then!

Regards

[Chopper]

I checked my manual and it says that the difflock will engage in 4h and 4l, but not in 2x4.

I can difinately remember the salesman telling me the 4l only story.so think that there might be a general misconception at some Nissan dealers.

[Peter Connan]

Jannie, the best way to test is as follows:

1) Lift one rear wheel, and if you have auto locking hubs, one front wheel. Place on stands.
2) With transfer box in 4h or 4l, main gearbox in Neutral or Park, start engine.
3) With diff lock switched off, you should be able to turn the rear wheel in the air by hand. Now unplug the vacuum hoses from the actuator on the diff. One must be sucking audibly.
4) Plug that one back into the actuator, and after waiting 30 seconds, make sure there is no sucking at the other pipe on the actuator (if there is, the diaphgragm in the actuator is faulty).
5) Switch the diff lock on. The rubber hose that is still disconnected, should now audibly suck air. Plug it back in and try to turn the wheel. It should lock up within a half-turn or less.

If all the vacuums work as they should, and the diff lock still doesn't engage, the problem could be mechanical, but I would expect that you would hear and feel it at the wheel.
If any of the vacuums do not work, the problem is probably either the solenoid or one of the vacuum pipes. To determine which it is, do the same check at the solenoid.

I doubt it is the switch, as the light would probably not flicker if it is the switch?

[martyn]

Something I have experienced is blocked/split vacume pipes. If you disconnect the pipes at the actuator solenoid in the engine bay and at the diff and give them a suck, they should free flow, if they do, attach 1 in engine bay and suck on it to see if it leaks, if not attach 2nd one and do the same, if you battle to suck,go to Hillbrow and get a lady from there, I hear they will be help you out with the sucking part, they have big lungs. On one of the previous forums there is a solinoid called EBC I think, it is supplied by one of the forum members and the prices are very good plus they are good quality, if yours is not working anymore.