Leaking Coolant Level Sensor

[Clem]

just out of interest , the hose set I got from Terrain Taimer worked well, bottom hose comes as one hose where the Nissan is a 2 piece with connector bit. Clem if you can't find a new top hose , I do have a spare upper hose ( my old hose) you can borrow it if you need to check if it is the hose.

Thank you Andries. that is very kind of you. One is on the way to me from Terrain Tamer, thanks to Tinus' help. But in the unlikely event of something going wrong, I will be sure to reach out to you!

[Clem]

Hi guys,

Okay. Issue identified.

Second pic shows the crack in the coolant loss sensor adapter housing. Crack is also visible from the inside. The crack is consistent with the leak.

The likely cause of the adapator cracking is apparent from the first picture. The hose ID is 33mm. Must have taken some force to push it all together. I stopped using the mechanic in question after my first experience with him when several items had been (very) shoddily carried out. This would seem to be another such instance, though I admit that it is debateable.

Looks like fitting a new adapter should solve the issue. I have the new hose as well but may just keep it spare for now.

[Clem]

Okay, I am really confused.

I replaced the water loss sensor housing. All sorted, no leaks. I have bled the cooling system by removing both the radiator cap and the bolt in the bleed aperture in front of the intake manifold. With the engine running, water pumps out the bleed hole and the radiator cap hole. Seems to be quite clear no air in the system.

But I can let the engine idle until the cows come home (30+ / 45 minutes) and the bottom radiator hose stays cool. The temperature gauge goes to normal operating temperature and stays there (just below half). The electric fans don't come on and the upper radiator hose get hot but not so hot that you can't touch it. And that's it. All seems normal but why is there no heat on the lower hose?

[iandvl]

Put the heater on full heat when replacing the coolant / bleeding. Also, the main bleed thingy is against the firewall. On the 4.5 at least, but pretty sure the 4.8 will be very similar.

[Clem]

Put the heater on full heat when replacing the coolant / bleeding. Also, the main bleed thingy is against the firewall. On the 4.5 at least, but pretty sure the 4.8 will be very similar.

Thank you Ian. Seems someone had some sense wth the 4.8 and moved it to a more accessible point: viewtopic.php?t=4587

To be honest, I don't think much water was lost as the sensor housing is just below the level of the radiator filler neck - 5 or 6cm and I didnt remove the hose below the sensor housing, so very little water was lost when I changed the housing.

I have noticed that the main belt driven fan hauls ass and pulls a lot of air right out the starting blocks. I'm starting to suspect that this is 'just how it is' but think I will take it for a short drive and see what happens... Here, hold my beer! :-)

EDIT: Took for a drive of about 4/5km. Bottom hose now warm and evrything normal. Seems to just be very efficient cooling system at idle. Interesting.