sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Engines and Engine Systems
Leon
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sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Leon » 16 Jul 2017 06:10

Goeie more. My y60 4.2td het vreeslik sump kompressie hy druk die olie by filler cap uit en maak n bol wit rook agter. Soms is rook meer as ander kere. Hy sukkel ook met krag kry maar max 100km/h uit hom en opdraande 60km/h. In dorp loop hy nie te bad maar kannie langpad vat nie raak erg warm. Hys ook vreeslik swaar op diesel.
Is dit maar net ringe. En hoe sterk is daai block of sal ek aan geraai word om complete overhauk te doen. kannie teveel ponfe spend nie want het ook een van daai kak captivas wat stykkend stn. Moet patrol net reg kry

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Michael
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Michael » 16 Jul 2017 07:40

Leon, klink of daar n paar ding is wat aandag nodug het op daai engine.

Die wit rook is diesel wat nie gebrand het nie so ek sal begin by pomp en injectors. Pomp timing en die pop pressure is baie belangrik op hierdie engines en dis net daar waar al jou krag en brandstof verbruik le. Pomp en injectors hier by ons kos so R5,500 omgewing om te laat toets en kalibreer.

Die warm word kan n paar goed wees, ek sal begin by die termostaat. Eerstens moet jy seker maak daar is wel n termostaat in en tweedens dat dit n "bypass" termistaat is en nie net n gewone een nie. Dan kan jy kyk wat die kondiesie van die termostaat housing is binne.
As al daai goed reg is kan jy na die radiator kyk.

Trek die breather pyp af op die tappet cover en kyk hoeveel rook daar uit kom, die filler cap het so rooi seel onder hom en as hy beskadig is sal hy daar olie lek so dis nie noodwendig sump compressie nie.

Hoop dit help
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Leon
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Leon » 16 Jul 2017 08:09

Dankie sal dit probeer. En check.

Leon
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Leon » 18 Jul 2017 20:40

Ek update net gou die een. Ek het vir tydelik n deurskynende tuinslang op breather pyp gesit en dut sommer in n 5L staal blik gesit om te kyk wat hy maak. Rook is weg by exhaust maar die olie loop soos n rivier in die pyp na die drom toe. So dink ernstig ek sal moet oorweeg om engin te doen. Sy ringe is moeg.

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Michael
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Michael » 19 Jul 2017 04:16

Jammer om dit te hoor Leon, laat weet as ju hulp nodig het.
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ricster
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by ricster » 19 Jul 2017 10:45

Leon, the nice thing about your motor is that its not a failure, so your costs should be quite low.

Obviously the motor needs to be stripped. CAREFULLY remove the head. Its a bliksemse heavy chunk of cast iron, but and probably doesn't need any work done to it, unless you wish to spend a few Rands on it to put new precom chambers in, but then it will need to be skimmed. By the way.... TD27 ( 2.7L turbo diesel motor in the diesel Sani's and bakkies ) shares MANY parts with the TD42. Precoms, piston rings, pistons, and I think the sleeves and big end bearings too. Have a read on this thread ( its a bit long, but there is LOADS of VERY valuable info that many mechanics don't know)..... http://patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f= ... n%E2%80%A6

If the sleeves are not within spec, and you get new sleeves pressed in then PLEASE PLEASE make sure that the top of the sleeves are not lower than the top of the block. They should protrude according to specs 0.02-0.09mm, but the engineering shop may not get that right, but if it is even slightly lower than the block you will have poeffies and have to open that motor again very soon. Remember to use new head bolts too. You won't believe how tight you have to torque those head bolts up :surprised: :surprised: :surprised:

Since my rebuild I have done well over 100 000Km of no nonsense driving with the Iron Maiden and she runs like a dream.
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Michael
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Michael » 19 Jul 2017 11:02

Cedric, do you think the head bolts are a use once item? Because I have actually been googling a bit recently on this subject and have also scanned all the manuals I have including the auto data digest. Tha manuals don't say anything about the bolts whether they should be changed or not, but I do know that they are not stretch bolt.
The auto data digest states that the bolts should not be changed and can be reused.

I have changed mine when I did my engine as it is obviously better to have new bolts if you can choose, but we reused the ones on Tinus's motor and both are still running 100%.

Do you have any other info on this as they are REALLY expensive these days (just under R100/bolt) so will save some cash when you can re use the old ones.
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ricster
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by ricster » 19 Jul 2017 11:23

Michael, yeah I also had a big fright when I had to buy new head bolts, but I was told by Frans 6 years back when I did my motor that it would be better to put new and then you know you have piece of mind, and at 22.7:1 compression ratio, that's one almighty bang and pressure in that cylinder and those bolts are all that is keeping the head and block together.

I think it is possible to reuse the old bolts, but I do recall measuring my old original head bolts and did find a slight difference in length over the 20 something odd head bolts. I can't recall the difference, but remember thinking, " well it was worth the expense.

My opinion only but on a petrol motor I think one can get away with reusing head bolts but not on a diesel with 3 x the compression ratio of a petrol.
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Rudolph
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Rudolph » 19 Jul 2017 13:28

ricster wrote:but and probably doesn't need any work done to it, unless you wish to spend a few Rands on it to put new precom chambers in, but then it will need to be skimmed
What we saying here, is that when nothing is done to the head, it is not necessary to skim it at all and can just be put back with a new head gasket?
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Michael
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Re: sump kompressie. baie wit rook. en treurig

Post by Michael » 19 Jul 2017 13:42

Rudolph wrote:
ricster wrote:but and probably doesn't need any work done to it, unless you wish to spend a few Rands on it to put new precom chambers in, but then it will need to be skimmed
What we saying here, is that when nothing is done to the head, it is not necessary to skim it at all and can just be put back with a new head gasket?
In theory, yes, but it is really recommended to have the head checked out while it is off. It really is a good idea to have the valves faced and seated again, have them measure the valve guids and put on some new valve stem seals. :thumbup:
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