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HELP please

Engines and Engine Systems

Re: HELP please

Postby ricster » 15 Feb 2016 09:10

"Cedric, do you have Frans's number? I am weary about the dealers after all the bad press they have had."

Here is his number
zero 8 three 4 zero nine 25 zero nine
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Re: HELP please

Postby Wilkie » 15 Feb 2016 09:20

can anybody perhaps get a part no on a sub assembly for a 3.0l engine. would like to see what it cost from agents :think:
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Re: HELP please

Postby gupster » 15 Feb 2016 09:37

Thanks for Frans's number cedric. Errol, I am trying to get hold of the mechanic that oversaw the job and will ask him what oil was used as I need to know if it was synthetic. Will let you know. Michael I agree now that it has to be the Turbo and the fact that the problem only occurs when the engine is hot, might indicate that thinner oil can get through the seals. I got it from a private person who is connected with Melvill and Moon so dont know where I stand with a recourse. I have included the invoice as it has quite a lot of info on it including a new turbo fitted. Look forward to your analysis.
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Rick Melville Patrol engine overhaul.pdf
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Re: HELP please

Postby gupster » 15 Feb 2016 10:08

I spoke to the chap Fanie who oversaw the rebuild. Errol, he said it was 20w50 and not synthetic. He also said the oil usage indicated turbo seals going, but agreed with you guys that smoke should have been visible. He also told me the turbo was a rebuild and not new. He is quite adamant that the hunting part is because of dirty fuel and said I should check the water trap which I am going to do now.
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Re: HELP please

Postby Michael » 15 Feb 2016 10:10

Turbo's tend to just pack up one day or last forever....they can be very unpredictable. So it might just be that and end of problems.

The problem with our law system is that the private person from the street does not have to sell you a car with a warranty/guarantee. If the deal is done there is basically nothing you cab do to reverse the deal as far as I know.
If he was a dealer its a different story....
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Re: HELP please

Postby gupster » 15 Feb 2016 10:12

Thanks Michael, it was what I thought.
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Re: HELP please

Postby Michael » 15 Feb 2016 10:25

gupster wrote:I spoke to the chap Fanie who oversaw the rebuild. Errol, he said it was 20w50 and not synthetic. He also said the oil usage indicated turbo seals going, but agreed with you guys that smoke should have been visible. He also told me the turbo was a rebuild and not new. He is quite adamant that the hunting part is because of dirty fuel and said I should check the water trap which I am going to do now.

Ok keep us posted, was the turbo rebuilt along with the engine?
I usually use Hilix HX7 which is a 15W40 (I think) part synthetic oil on the ZD30's
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Re: HELP please

Postby gupster » 15 Feb 2016 10:42

Thanks Michael. Yes the turbo rebuild was done at the same time as the engine. Just bled the water trap, no water though.
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Re: HELP please

Postby gupster » 15 Feb 2016 12:05

I have been looking at turbo prices just in case and have come across a brand new Garrett turbo for the 3.0l for 8 K. How does that sound. If it is the turbo, I think I would prefer to bite the bullet and go new. Any thoughts?
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Re: HELP please

Postby gupster » 15 Feb 2016 12:45

Frans certainly knows how to think out the box. Just had a very interesting conversation with him.
One possibility for the hunting when hot and not cold as well as it only happening when in gear is a water temperature switch. He says there are 2 switches, one for the dashboard gauge and another for the ECU. If the ECU one is sending the wrong information, the ECU will adjust the amount of injected diesel incorrectly. If it thinks the engine is colder than it is, it will over oil to compensate. This fuel adjustment only happens when it is in gear and not, apparently, when in neutral. He also said that very often the sender switch breaks down at the high temperature and is fine when it is cold. And the reason why there is no engine code thrown is because the ECU accepts the information.
Unfortunately, I have to find someone with a diagnostic computer to be able to see what the readings are, so will have to go to Durban for that. Just changing the sensor wont be exact because it could also be a connector.
Will keep posting
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