Peter Connan wrote:Jaco, all the major suspension suppliers have different strengths of springs for any specific lift (normally three "load ratings").
So go with your previous idea of OME or TJM. Personally, I would go for a 2"lift, as I don't think a quality set will settle that much, and the lift specified is supposed to include the settle anyway.
You have options here, but they all coma at a cost, and the best setup depends on your intended use.
Like Tinus, I am a big fan of air helpers, because this gives you the best possible ride under all conditions, and allows you to still carry a heavy load and tow a heavy trailer without dragging the tail around.
If you want to do this, then specify the softest rear springs in the range, and the softest fronts as well unless you intend fitting a bull bar and winch, in which case you will need stronger front springs. And then take your car to ride-on-air for the air jackers. Here as well you will be given various options, each with it's own cost attached. I think the basic kit consisting of air helpers with external air points that you pump up with you compressor (or the garage's) should come to around R7k. You could also go further and have a built-in compressor and switches where you can adjust the pressures from inside the car.
Personally, I think the ultimate is a (custom) system where you start off with the basic system, then modify it to connect it to your TPMS, and then add a electric 2/3 way solenoid with large pipes (at least 10mm) to couple between the two, in such a way that when the solenoid is de-energised (switched off) the helpers are isolated from each other, and when the solenoid is energised they are coupled together. And then remove the rear anti-roll bar.
When the helpers are isolated and inflated, they act like anti-roll bars, and when they are connected, they actually should improve axle articulation and traction in difficult terrain.
If you decide against the air helpers, just choose springs suitable for the purpose you want to use the car for.
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