Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

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davidvdm
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

Peter Connan wrote:You probably need to set the system up to allow for 60-70% bump stop compression to be on the safe side.

Both in terms of sump and shock mounts.
Peter I am doff with these things, please explain what you mean... Sorry

Update. I have been driving at as is for the past day or three and it is way better on the new springs. Slight bump steer issue's, but that is due to a fairly big draglink angle. Hope to sort most of that problem out by turning the ball joint section of the steering box pitman arm around, and changing the angle of the ball joint to suite the pitman on the diff. By doing that I bring the draglink link down by 110mm on the steering box side and end up with only 30-40mm draglink angle.

Spent four hours yesterday just cleaning off all the stuff we welded on to take the coil springs, on the driver side. Can't believe how I mess myself up by doing jobs too well.

The next week or so will just be fine tuning and cleaning up all the loose ends on the front end, maybe even getting the bullbar back on as well. I may even have to sort a rockslider out as part of the exercise so that my wife can get into the car :rolling: .. I did the driver side a while back and wanted to make sure I was happy with the design, then the SFA started happening and I was glad I waited as things could change.

My wife manages to get into the driver side on the new rockslider, but the left side is too close to the body and makes it very difficult for her to get up to a 600mm floor level when the step is too small. I think I also need handles installed somewhere, that should stop people using my doors and snorkel to pull themselves up into the car.

I think by Feb I should be ready to start phase two on the rear end and the rest of the drive train.
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
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Peter Connan
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by Peter Connan »

Set the shock mounts up so that the shocks go solid pretty much at the same point where the diff reaches the sump.

Then set the bump stops up so that they are 70% compressed when the shocks go solid. In other words, measure the length of the bump stops, calculate 30% of that, and that is how much clearance you want between the bump stop's mounting and the axle xasing when the shocks are fully compressed.

That make more sense?
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
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davidvdm
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

My bump stops are nothing more than 64mm tube stands from the chassis with Toyota Marathon Rubber stops on the end of them.

Shocks have around 30mm left after I reach the bump stop, and that is also around 30mm short of hitting the sump. I still have 70mm of travel from a static standing position before I hit the bump stop.

I managed to score 20mm by cutting a bracket off the top of the diff that was previously used for a brake line that I no longer need.

I will be moving the shock at a later stage to make space for the sway bar anyways.
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
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davidvdm
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

Some progress over the last day or two. Been stuck with other problems that has kept me busy and very little work done.

Yesterday I cut and turned the ball joint taper receiver on the steering box pitman. At the same time I dropped the angle to the same as that on the steering arm on the diff.
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Total score of 110mm and a much better angle between diff and steering box. Also moved the steering damper to the tie rod and built new brackets for that.
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Result is amazing, half of which I really don not under stand. Steering that was previously pulling to the left, now just about runs straight, although it does follow the road a lot, which mostly cambers off to the left anyway. But now the steering wheel is center and it for the most part stays there while you are driving.

A definite more positive feel to the steering and even the handling seems to feel better.

Today I am just cleaning stuff, mostly welding and making things looks better. But, we are struggling again with power. Must be the most frustrating thing to want to do something, and it just turn to rubbish. Power measuring at 180Volts and you just can't weld. Believe me I am trying, but kicking myself every time the weld turns to sh!t.
Front spring mount with rough welding just to make it stick
Front spring mount with rough welding just to make it stick
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Grinder makes it look way nicer
Grinder makes it look way nicer
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Breaker has dropped on the board three times already this afternoon, and that on a three phase supply to the workshop. Most of the places I am working, I can't get in with any size grinder to fix things, so it is me trying to weld things so they look better.

I am going to have to look at the shocks very soon. I think we need to beef things up in a big way. I am hoping to cut the sump next week which will give me an additional 45mm of travel, and hopefully off the bump stops.

Just a last pic..
Standing out in a crowd
Standing out in a crowd
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David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
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davidvdm
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

Work is slow with absolutely no finances at the moment. But I did manage to do a 32mm lift to the steering arm on the knuckle to get better angle on the draglink.
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Then I got myself a cut on the sidewall of my last tires and a friend stepped in and helped me to purchase a good deal on a set of 8,5J x 15" rims and 33" Michilin LTX tires.
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Sani is sporting better proportions with the wider track and bigger rubber.
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David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
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Theuhan
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by Theuhan »

David

Hy Lyk great met die 33" tyres, wanneer gaan jy hom bietjie offroad toets?
82 Safari SOA
92 Patrol SWB
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davidvdm
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

As ek een dag die geld het om hom weer 4x4 te kry. Hy ry nog met die Sani agter diff en propshaft niks wat by die voor diff kan uit kom nie.

Ek het mos Safari transfer case en H260 agter diff wat moet onder die Sani in gaan.

Maar ek sit al weer van begin Desember sonder werk en die goed waar aan ek nou werk gaan eers einde Maart enige geld betaal.
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
User avatar
davidvdm
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Full Name: David vd Merwe
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

Some people may have seen I have had some issues with broken shock mounts (four times now), and Saturday I fond another one, front left starting to tear out the chassis.

Started making a plan with all the bits I have laying around, and between the old Sani Coil over hoops and brackets from the original bull bar mounts and a 200mm length of angle iron Kruiwa had in his garage, we burnt this together.
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Also cut the bump stops shorter to leave me a mere 5mm to crashing the diff into the sump. But so far a trip out to a farm on Sunday afternoon saw me getting over everything faster than I could even do it with the IFS, with no bump stop or sump contact.

Thinking I must do an "emergency" repair on the rear end as I see one of the shock mounts are starting to bend slightly again.
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
User avatar
davidvdm
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Joined: 13 Sep 2011 15:47
Full Name: David vd Merwe
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Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

I have not updated this thread for ages and I have access to my SILs laptop while he is doing some deliveries, so here goes.

First. thanks to Ian who donated two sets of shocks from his Patrol. Unfortunately the OME, or was it Iron Man, had one shock that was not up to par, and to change all the mounts for shocks that I believe would ultimately be too short, was not worth it. But the set of rear Gabriel are still in good condition and have made a positive impact to the handling.

So while I am the rear shocks, heres how that turned out....
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Please excuse my Grandson using the Sani towbar as a Jungle Jim
Please excuse my Grandson using the Sani towbar as a Jungle Jim
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Descent 6mm thick brackets and 20mm bolts on both ends
Descent 6mm thick brackets and 20mm bolts on both ends
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Only little problem I have is that I did not have a drill press to drill all my holes with. The only drill machine that has the nuts to do all this 20mm drilling, is my SDS machine with normal chuck attachment. So the holes are not exactly 20mm, and the shock ends rattle :doh: ..

I'll continue on the next post before everything goes AWOL before I get to post it...
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
User avatar
davidvdm
Patrolman
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Posts: 627
Joined: 13 Sep 2011 15:47
Full Name: David vd Merwe
Nickname: David - Hillbilly
Home Town: West Coast
Current 4x4: 1997 2.7TD Nissan Sani Mk3 4x4 SFA (SAFANI)
Home Language: English/Afrikaans
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 48 times
Contact:

Re: Patrol/Safari bits for Sani

Post by davidvdm »

I got down to doing the modification on the passenger rock slider to drop it by 30mm and extend it so that it stands out 30mm further from the body so that people with short legs have something to use as a step to get in.
Old Design
Old Design
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New design
New design
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Reason we need steps
Reason we need steps
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Same guy at his bakkie with Sani in shot
Same guy at his bakkie with Sani in shot
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The new design changed the mounting from a clamp type that simply had a back plate that sandwiched the chassis between rockslider and back plate, to a U design that caps the chassis from below and was built so tight that it gets installed with at least a 4 pound hammer. The design also incorporates pins situated in just the right places to act as locating pins that line up with holes that are usually found in a Hardbody chassis. This prevents the rocksliders from moving forward and backward.

Anyway, the exercise showed something else I was suspecting, but I have since been told that its very normal for cars have such discrepancies. The passenger chassis rail that runs in the length of the Sani, is tilted and hangs down on the outside. The height is still correct, but its as if I have had a massive load on my rockslider that has twisted the chassis member.

I figured this all out after the darn thing was welded together and being installed. I could see how it was hanging down. It looks like it hangs by about 15mm on its furthest point from the chassis. Its really not a biggy, I have learned to ignore it
David - Bfreesani
1997 Nissan Sani MK3 2.7TD - Hillbilly (SAFANI)
MQ C200 SFA
MQ H260 LSD Rear
MQ Transfer as second low range
5" Lift
33"x12.5x15" tires on 8.5J rims - Want 35's
DIY rock sliders
DIY Snorkel
Madman EMS
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