"The Road to Hell" Aug 2012

[Traveler]

“Waarom is ek verslaaf aan adrenalien? Waarom nie iets veiliger soos Tik nie?”, Cobus stares down The Valley of Ten Thousand Dancing Demons with a grimace on his usual smiling face. With a Hilux like Kaspaas he is worried? Then what should I be?
But let me get back to where this ordeal started, and why we find ourselves pumping adrenaline.
Some years ago there was a trip report on the LCCSA Forum that cemented “The Road to Hell” as a must do when you need to scare yourself. A day trip for Land Cruisers from the LCCSA turned into a nightmare of continuous recoveries for 2 days when an ill prepared group of people dissented into this valley on a road that was built by miners not ever intended to be used on a daily basis; but only to be used as an emergency escape route when the Orange River would flood their normal road. Now what could be more enticing than to drive down, and up a road that was not intended as a road? Then this infamous pass featured in an article published by WegRy magazine, and the legend just grew even more. It is a road that demands respect, you find yourself far from civilization and support, and in the case when things go wrong, they will go wrong in the worst possible way in the worst possible location with help only possible from one direction.
About a year ago Cobus in Kanoneiland started a thread on our Hilux Forum that he feels compelled to visit this legendary vehicle breaker of a pass, scare himself and also conqueror it. Very quickly we had a group of foolhardy enthusiasts on our list and it was full; now we waited for 9 August 2012 to arrive.
Our list of adventurers for this epic was:
Our experienced and traveled guide Piet who was on the nightmare with the LCCSA group, Piet would be Co-driver with Ali in his red SFA with their sons.
Johannes van die See (our own fishmonger) driving his intimidating 2.7 IFS, his Co-driver would be Pieter Petoors and Johannes’s son JJ (bringing loads of snoek and bokkoms).
Then our fearless “Souties” Steve with his “self-built” SFA 3.4L V6 and his Co-driver Bretton the snoring Engelsman. You need to see this conversion to believe it.
Lehan with his blue petrol IFS one of the “local boys”, if you need large rocks moved you call Lehan for the job, he is as strong as a bear. Riding with Lehan was his friend from Technikon Pierre.
Then there was the odd vehicle out, my Nissan Patrol all the way from Gauteng, my Co-Driver being Mark. We might have been the odd one out, but we were consummately comfortable with loads of space; this space was to cause problems once on the RTH.
Then the only single cab IFS in the convoy piloted by Viljee from Kenhardt steering his tan coloured diesel loaded with the tenderest “skaaptjoppies” you have ever tasted.
Bringing up the rear was our initiator Cobus piloting the now famous Kaspaas and his Co-Driver Clinton all the way from the Cape and plenty stories to share about driving a Corsa into deep holes.
During the course of three months there were literally hundreds of e-mails in the planning and organizing phase, and by the time the date for departure arrived everything had been thoroughly planned and discussed in finite detail, real pedantic stuff.
On a super cold Wednesday morning Mark and I wove our way through Gauteng traffic with a rather heavily loaded but very comfortable Patrol. We passed Lichtenburg, Vryburg and Kuruman shopping as we went along collecting whatever it was that might have left at home (particularly meat in Vryburg); eventually arriving at Kanoneiland well after 8pm to a hearty welcome by Cobus, Lehan and their families.
Thursday morning we set of from Kanoneiland following Cobus and met up with Viljee and Lehan in Keimoes. We travelled in convoy to meet up with a waiting Clinton and Pierre in Pofadder, we took so long to get there Clinton and Pierre almost walked to Rahmansdrift. Here we let down some tyres, and filled the last tanks before it was dirt road and trails.
Next stop would be on the road so that we could have some of the padkos that Lehan’s wife had prepared for us. We made this stop at the plenty Kokerboom on the Klein Pella road, and the frikadelle and jaffels was first rate.
With full tummies we set of towards Goodhouse and eventually turned onto the track that would lead us to Rahmansdrift. Not having Tracks 4 Africa loaded onto my Nuvi500 this track eventually took us down into the deepest powder dust you could imagine, the famed fesh fesh from the Sahara desert. While driving down the bed Orange River I took a wrong turn and ended up stranding the Patrol in a ditch about 3m deep. After some struggling Cobus and Kaspaas saved my bacon. Just to drive the point home, Cobus proceed to pilot Kaspaas through this moments later; there is pictures and video footage a plenty.
We had to back track 9km’s and eventually reached the rest of the Capetonians already camped on the lovely green grass at Rahmansdrift.
At Rahmansdrift Johannes packed a 2kg smoked snoek on my table between me and Mark, this was a super fresh smoked snoek, in fact I think it was so freshed I might have seen it move. A mistake in positioning he will not make again….. We nearly finished the whole snoek, Johannes referred to Gauteng style. After the snoek, Johannes gave bokkom eating lessons to an eager “classroom”, Bretton enjoyed his bokkoms so much he ignored a huge bite from a baber on his line. Afterwards the fisherman tried to focus again and coax some of the monster barber from the Orange River; and someone tried to scare them out the river with flaming hot spots, shame I think there is still a couple left with arc eyes.
We had a snoek or two toasted over the coals, as well as some proper meat for the non-vegetarians. After meals we were entertained by stories and plenty of laughter, in fact so much laughter it bordered on torture.
Friday morning dawned with lovely blue skies and hardly a wind to speak of. After a good breakfast we headed of on a lovely scenic trip following Piet and Ali, stopping of at interesting points we listened as Piet shared his great knowledge of the area, plants and its people; it really made a wonderful addition to the morning and added huge amount of value. All the while there was plenty of friendly banter and joking over the radios. The discussions did not decrease as we got closer to the entrance to the road we intended to conquer; you could see the clear anticipation and excitement as we came closer to our destination.
All too suddenly we had reached our intended destination, we lined up the vehicles and people in the little space available and took at least one obligatory picture.
After the smiles it was time to put on our game faces for the decent. Laughter started to turn into nervous giggles.
I soon realized this was not going to be the typical kind of road, it was narrow, and we already had to move a mountain with the help of Lehan, Viljee and Pierre to get the Patrol to this point as it is wider than any of the Hilux’s. Our challenge clearly being to negotiate our vehicles over and around the rocks that constitutes this road while not slipping over the crumbling edge onto the valley floor way down below. I could see my fellow travelers where looking as focused as I was feeling. And just to make sure I stayed focus there was the constant gnashing and scrapping against the bash plates and rock sliders.
Eventually after an hour and a half of dead quiet on the radios we reached our campsite. This site being the opposite of Rhamansdrifts; a spot of open sand and gravel about 500m from the Orange River. We had reached the bottom, but we had seen and experienced what had to be overcome tomorrow. But for now we could appreciate the surroundings, the company and a slight feeling of accomplishment.
Everybody went for a swim/bath in a freezing cold Orange River to wash of the dust and the fright of the trip down the valley; a very long 4.4km’s. While enjoying our afternoon we heard the drone of a diesel engine, and to our surprise here comes a double cab Cruiser sauntering along on its own with a husband and wife team. They are from the North Cape and have always wondered what this pass was all about. On our way out they would confess that they realized it was a bad idea about 150m into the pass but it was already too late to turn around. They decided to not camp with us, and retreated some distance up the riverbed for a more private evening. For supper Cobus and Clinton roasted A+ grade lamb over some vineyard coals; I made us a beer bread, Johannes made some pap and sauce. A lekker meal.
I could not stay awake much longer, but you could hear laughter well into the night.
Saturday morning broke to howling wind, and overcast skies threatening with rain. We all knew the die was cast, and packed in fast forward. A joint decision was taken to only have breakfast once we reached an old mica mine outside the pass and valley we did not want to be wrestling rocks while raining.
Tyres were deflated a bit more, and we set of. Again the gnashing, scraping and bumping started. I was well aware of the width of my vehicle and time and again in the riverbed needed to take a different line. At the first ascent we found the couple and their Cruiser, they decided to fall in behind our convoy (in hindsight a wise call). We bumped and shook our way up the spine road slowly but surely leaving the valley floor below us. And as we got higher up the road, the conversations over the radio became less as in some places you could barely get out the vehicle, or open the door on the cliff face side. Where possible Pieter and Bretton jumped out and took plenty of pictures and video. After approx an hour of focused driving we came to the much anticipated rock step, and the spot where plenty road building was on our menu.
With his experience Piet coordinated our combined building effort and everybody jumped in and packed rocked and filled the spaces in between with gravel and small rocks. This road needed to be very well planned before Johannes could lead us up and over this obstacle where line and traction was going to be critical. No space for any error, 1ft to the left or right would be monumentally damaging.
Johannes was the first to test our construction, and with a dramatic looking hop he made it onto and over the step. The look on Pieter’s face described it like no spoken or written words will ever be able to do. Next came Ali, his SFA being without locking differential, he drove a perfect line, and got to the top with little effort. After some repairs to the road it was Steve’s turn. As he started the V6 the growl of the engine made it started to rain, yes, RAIN. Within moments the rocks were super slippery and wet. Steve followed the line, but in an instant his Hilux was precariously perched over the edge of the cliff. He reacted with experience, and was off the accelerator in an instant. It was immediately clear that any attempt to correct his line would deliver his Hilux with him inside to the bottom of the valley floor. As we needed an anchor to use the winch on Steve’s vehicle Ali was asked to reverse down the road….. Yes, reverse down the road which scared us all the day before. He did it like a pro and we anchored for a recovery using a snatch block. As the 12,000lbs winch started turning it became evident our plan was not working as we had intended. So the next lucky person to reverse into position for a double anchor was Johannes. After some time we had 2 Hilux’s as anchors, and the winching started over. Again, it did not work as planned. So the next move was winch, give slack and then pack rocks, winch, give slack, pack rocks so that we could literally lift the vehicle over the hump it was stranded on, even the couple in the Landcruiser put in a hand. After a huge team effort and much cheering the recovery was completed.
We had to completely rebuild the road after this harrowing moment. Next in line was lucky Lehan, he rose to the occasion and drove a perfect line, and with virtually no wheel spin he got over the step. Now my turn.
Mark decided he was going to either fail or overcome with me (thanks Mark). We got in, and drove up to the starting position. Pieter showed me the line, warning me I had little room for error and away we went. We made it….. I even kissed the steering wheel.
As I got out, I saw Viljee overcome the same obstacle as if he was looking for parking at the local co-op, no drama and as cool as a cucumber. Last in our group it was Cobus, he also drove a perfect line, and got to the top in the blink of an eye and beaming with pride. Then the Landcruiser couple who had built the road with us. Halfway into the obstacle it was wheelspin and rocks flying; they had not deflated tyres…. Again in a team effort the tyres where deflated in moments, with tyres at the correct pressure the Landcruiser floated up the step and left our road intact behind it.
The rest of the road was driven without incident, and relatively boringly.
At the top we each had the opportunity to pose for a picture, and bask in the glory of what we had just all overcome as a team and as individuals.
We took a last look down the valley, and then headed to have that promised breakfast. We chatted, and talked enjoyed breakfast, but hardly any words were shared about the experience at the step. I believe we were each still trying to process what we have just experienced and achieved.
As we were packing the rain started coming down again, and this time so with much more intent than earlier, thank goodness we were out of that trail.
The rest of the group had decided to camp the evening at the Kamgab river mouth, but because of distance to Gauteng, Mark and I was to leave them, and camp at Klein Pella. This would save us at least 3 hours on the way home.
So we still followed the group until our roads would split after crossing the Kamgab.
Mark and I headed via Goodhouse and past Rahmansdrift back to Klein Pella, in the background we heard jokes over the radio after saying our farewells.
We headed of into the driving rain, and at 15h30 arrived at a cold and wet Klein Pella with driving winds. After a drive through the farm operations Mark guided me towards Pella on the Namaqua 4x4 trail which turned into another absolutely scenic drive. Reaching Pella we still had some adventure left in us, and drove Charles’s Pass which offered breathtaking photographic opportunity.
Reaching Klein Pella at 19h00 we made a call to rather pack and outrun the cold front for Gauteng.
Quickly we packed and arrived at a freezing Pofadder for a supper of pies and burgers. We drove through the night reaching home on Sunday morning.

Driving this pass was an experience to cherish forever, and I will always say thanks to the team of men that took the time to share the adventure. We achieved our goals with nearly no damage to any of the participating machines.
Is Road to Hell the most difficult road you can take? No, it is not the most difficult road you can find in South Africa. But it most probably is the most treacherous road you will find so far removed from civilization. It is not a road to tackle on your own, and not without proper preparation.

[Peter Connan]

Beautifully written thanks Heinrich.

But where's the pictures?

[Traveler]

Thanks Peter.
Pictures on the way.

PS. The bashplate and belly plate got a workout.

[Peter Connan]

Heinrich, that's what they're there for!

How did those rock sliders cope?

[Traveler]

The Rocksliders got an even worse workout.
They did exceptionally well.

[Traveler]

About to depart from Kanoneiland.


















Breakfast stop at Klein Pella.

[Traveler]

[Traveler]

At the top of the infamous pass.

[Traveler]

[Traveler]

On the way to Charles's pass.







See that beauty of a Patrol.








Inflating tyres before we head home in Pofadder. It was really cold.