Introduction
- patrollandscape.jpg (207.9 KiB) Viewed 2360 times
Easter at the Wild Coast. Nothing to add to to it, but yet it the mere idea of it fills you with a swirl of excitement. The long drive from Pretoria, (and back) and a couple of hundred kilomteres in one of the most scenic places in South Africa... Will 5 days ever be enough to experience the full wonder of such a magical place? Probably not, but then again, that will be at least one more reason to return one day. The mere majesty of the endless green hills, steeply dropping off into rocky cliffs tumbling wildly into an untamed sea grips the imagination as you set of for a trip to the Wild Coast.
Waterfall Bluff, Cathedral Rock, BBC China, Magwa Falls
- waterfallatbluf.jpg (1.08 MiB) Viewed 2360 times
In the north of the Wild Coast, just South of the Mkambati nature resrve, you climb off the main dirt road onto a rugged path winding down 7.5 km towards the coast where a
Drifter's Lodge awaits you at the bluff. Low range is not required on the Patrol, but still best to take this section carefully. At the bluff, spectacular columns of water soar into the blue sky as waves crash onto the hard rocks like a musical fountain dancing to the sound of the Wild Coast. There are a few scattered houses here that I assume can be rented, but unsure where to book. A short but brisk walk South from the camp along the coast leads you to a beautiful waterfall dropping onto the rocks right into the ocean. If, after a 4 km hike you still feel up to it, you can backtrack a little from here and continue on to Cathedral Rock. If you time your return hike well, you might also be able to ride the 30 odd km's to the Magwa Falls. Another indescribable scene with tons of water falling down a stunning rock face. Definitely worth the visit.
Mapuzi Cliffs and Caves
- mapuziriver.jpg (1.11 MiB) Viewed 2360 times
Just North of Coffe Bay, the Mapuzi (Place of Pumpkins?) river flows into the ocean at one of the most picturesque picnic spots I have ever visited. If you have the time, you could possibly spend the day (or even the night if you can go without any amenities) at this location, fishing, swimming and just enjoying the untouched spendour of this yet another treasure along the Wild Coast. Unfortunately, we were just passing through on a hiking tour leading us a little bit more North-East, down the steep overhangs, back towards a powerful ocean crashing onto the rocks below. Following along these rocks North takes you through a fissure in the rocks to the Mapuzi Caves. Not the biggest or most impressive caves in South Africa, but just the hike here was already filled with eye-candy and a huge sense of the rough-but-beautiful coast line. Our Guide
(Coffee Shack) was exceptionally knowledgable of the area and filled the hilly hike with interesting tidbits of information. Continueing on from these caves, leads you a secluded "Jacuzzi" and high jump off the cliff into the ocean for the adventurous people. Another must-do hiking trail with a manageble distane, but yet adventurous walk to untouched splendour.
- youwantmetowalkthere.jpg (621.7 KiB) Viewed 2360 times
Coffee Bay
- sundownerhorseriding.jpg (868.29 KiB) Viewed 2360 times
Plenty to do in this exceptionally small community with three backpacker lodges all offering various activites. If you are interested, you could stop by at the Jah-Drums bar and ask to buy some African Drums. Probably the most memorable item you can pick up along the Wild Coast. Cost is a little high, but drums are well made and well worth their cost. Just accross the road you can spend an entire evening at the
Bomvu Lodge around a camp fire learning how to properly play your new found instrument. Locals will also entertain you with high quality music from the drums while you relax at the bar or enjoying the fantastic Pizza offered by the kitchen. Horse riding at Bomvu takes you on a sunset ride over the beach and into the surrounding area. Horses are very tame and even 7 year old children can easily come along for an unforgettable yet easy ride. If you find the drums a little expensive as souveniers, you can
always pop into the Kaleidoscope offering a fantastic array of souveniers and gifts at a reasonable cost. Probably one of the few places along the Wild Coast where you can pick up small treasures other than beaded bracelets and necklaces. Note that even though you might be able to draw money and refill your vehicle here, it is better to try to avoid it as cash is not readily available and the local BP doesn't always have fuel.
White Clay Restaurant
- whiteclay.jpg (733.14 KiB) Viewed 2360 times
This restaurant deserves an entire pararaph devoted to it. It is most probably one of the most beautifull restaurants on the Wild Coast. The building itself is pretty basic, but neatly arranged and nicely layed out. What makes this restaurant truly amazing is the view from the balcony. From your table you have a grand view over the bay and the only possible remembrence of a long forgotten "civilized world" are the few campers and self catering chalets behing the restaurant. The white beaches are entirely empty save for a few lost cows meandering along the water line and on a clear day you have the possibility of spotting bottle nose dolphins in the water. Prices are probably a little high, but the food is excellent and the experience is well worth it. Note that as with most restaurants along the Wild Coast, it is only open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. Stopping here for "afternoon tea" will leave you waiting at the door.
Hole In the Wall
- holeinthewallfromthehil.jpg (1.12 MiB) Viewed 2360 times
You cannot pass through the Wild Coast and miss the biggest single attraction right at the centre of the Wild Coast. Hole in the wall is a large single rocky outcrop roughly 50 meteres from the shoreline, right at the river mouth. The single hole right through the centre of the rock is the spawing point for many tall tales right from old treasure hunts to mythical tales of sea-people losing their hearts to a beutiful local girl and it is easy to understand why. The large hill (with great fishing spots on the other side), the crashing ocean, serene river and extraordinary rock formation all combine to create a sense of magic, an unearthing feeling of a greater Creator and complete wonder that such places can truly exist. The Hole in the Wall Village offers fantastic accomodation with exceptional views over the beach. A shining gem on the Wild Coast and a great oppertunity to shake off some dust and get a good night's rest. Just North-East of the village over the first small hill is a small turnoff where you can safely leave your vehicle and hike a short distance to the "Baby Hole". Another rock formation with a hole through the centre, but even though this one is much smaller in comparison, it is just as memorable. For a fantastic fishing spot, you can drive over one more hill (3km from the village) and turn off again to a less traveled path. This path meanders a bit through hills and streams before dropping down to rolling green fields right on the ocean. Here it is a short walk (200m) to a wonderful fishing spot where fish are plenty and comeptition is low. Note you will need the Patrol to get here, the City Golf wont make it. But for that matter, if you brought the Golf to the Wild Coast, you brought the wrong toy altogether.
- fishingatholeinthewall.jpg (1.24 MiB) Viewed 2360 times
Conclusion
Not enough time, and too much to see. The Wild Coast leaves one with a desire for more and a passion for Mother Nature. You cannot help but feel deprived on your drive back to civilitation off all the wonders not yet seen and experiences not yet undertaken. A future visit is definitely needed. Twice as long and at least three times more detailed. Maybe then you can experince almost half of what is still on offer by this unspoiled land...
- patrolwithsea.jpg (747.34 KiB) Viewed 2360 times
Great report, yes we certainly live in a beautiful and wild country with some very scenic areas to explore, just as a matter of interest what was your consumption on this trip .
