Rear stabilizer bar
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
I am dead against the removal of stabiliser bars. I fitted – at a time – heavy duty Land Rover supplied rear springs to my Discovery 1. They came with an instruction to remove the rear anti-sway bar when fitting the springs. It very nearly cost us our lives.
- Alex Roux
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Did the car flip over when breaking at speed?
Skilpad, Shortie, Toro & Masewa
- Tinus lotz
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Isnt the diso 1 very top heavy to begin with ? I am also a bit weiry of just taking them off but on the aus form the guys do it all the time too . I think if it can be disconnected when u do trails and put back when on the highway it will be best of both world's
- Alex Roux
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- Full Name: Alexander Roux
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- Current 4x4: 2004 GU 3TDi (Lexus) - aka "Witblits" (sold)
2005: GU TD42 - aka "Masewa"
1996: GQ TB48 conversion - aka "Skilpad"
1993: GQ SWB TB42 - aka "Shortie"
1985: MQ Patrol (Safari) SD33 - aka "Toro" - Home Language: Afrikaans
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Questions are though:
a) How much more flex do you really get out and;
b) How easy can it be made to disconnect and reconnect again
a) How much more flex do you really get out and;
b) How easy can it be made to disconnect and reconnect again
Skilpad, Shortie, Toro & Masewa
- Grant
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Re: Rear stabilizer bar
Gents,
My experience is that a pure suspension lift will not always give you the ultimate articulation. As the suspension lift increases (with long travel shocks) a limiting factor is the body’s position. In other words, as one wheel moves down the other side of the axel then moves up. The more the one moves down the more the other then lifts and with mine, eventually the wheel jammed up against the body. Only solution was to lengthen the bump stops, which then prevented the full potential articulation.
For me the ultimate would be a standard 50 mm lift with a 50 mm body lift. As for permanently removing the sway bars, no chance. Both front and rear will stay in place, with removal on specific trails only.
My experience is that a pure suspension lift will not always give you the ultimate articulation. As the suspension lift increases (with long travel shocks) a limiting factor is the body’s position. In other words, as one wheel moves down the other side of the axel then moves up. The more the one moves down the more the other then lifts and with mine, eventually the wheel jammed up against the body. Only solution was to lengthen the bump stops, which then prevented the full potential articulation.
For me the ultimate would be a standard 50 mm lift with a 50 mm body lift. As for permanently removing the sway bars, no chance. Both front and rear will stay in place, with removal on specific trails only.
V8 Power
You can't expect to be old and wise
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You can't expect to be old and wise
if you were never young and crazy
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