Jy sien het jy dalk model nommers ens?ChristoSlang wrote:It is indeed available!pdasilva wrote:I replaced my locker with an ARB unit. So yes the ARB is available for both the larger 260 and the 233 diff.
I gave up on the Nissan locker's endless problems and fitted an ARB many years ago. It's engages instantly, has never given me a day's trouble, and I now have a backup air compressor to inflate tires in case my primary air system should fail
Rear Diff Lock Options
- Tinus lotz
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Re: Rear Diff Lock Options
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Re: Rear Diff Lock Options
Are they really that bad? My impression is that used carefully and correctly, it is actually quite a strong unit and that it is really just the vacuum actuator that can be a bit problematic. (?)ChristoSlang wrote:pdasilva wrote:I gave up on the Nissan locker's endless problems
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Re: Rear Diff Lock Options
Found my answer, courtesy of Peter Connan:
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/sho ... ock-Angola
In my opinion, the only real problem with the Patrol's diff lock is the actuation mechanism.
Every single failure I have seen can be diagnosed back to failure of either the vacuum solenoid in the engine bay, or the vacuum pipes between that and the diff, or driver error (applying power before proper engagement is achieved).
The system consists of two solenoids in a single housing, and probably the real reason for most failures is that the two breathers do not have proper filters. As a result, dust and moisture enters the solenoids and they get stuck.
One side keeps the locker disengaged, the other engages it. The switch swops solenoids (in other words, one is always energised). If the solenoid that is supposed to pull the locker out of engagement should get stuck in the closed position (fairly unlikely) or the hose on that one fails, the diff could partially engage, even when switched off.
What usually happens though is that the other solenoid gets stuck in the closed position, so that attempting to engage the diff lock results in only partial engagement.
The sliding collar is splined to the side shaft, and has two large dog teeth that engage with the diff carrier. These are quite large and have a taper for most of their length. The result of applying torque during this period of partial engagement is that these two dog teeth get damaged and the locker cannot engage correctly.
Having said that, this is the first one I have seen where the locking sleeve disintegrated, and perhaps something else happened here.
Once the locker is properly engaged, it is plenty strong, I have abused mine enough to know that.
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/sho ... ock-Angola
In my opinion, the only real problem with the Patrol's diff lock is the actuation mechanism.
Every single failure I have seen can be diagnosed back to failure of either the vacuum solenoid in the engine bay, or the vacuum pipes between that and the diff, or driver error (applying power before proper engagement is achieved).
The system consists of two solenoids in a single housing, and probably the real reason for most failures is that the two breathers do not have proper filters. As a result, dust and moisture enters the solenoids and they get stuck.
One side keeps the locker disengaged, the other engages it. The switch swops solenoids (in other words, one is always energised). If the solenoid that is supposed to pull the locker out of engagement should get stuck in the closed position (fairly unlikely) or the hose on that one fails, the diff could partially engage, even when switched off.
What usually happens though is that the other solenoid gets stuck in the closed position, so that attempting to engage the diff lock results in only partial engagement.
The sliding collar is splined to the side shaft, and has two large dog teeth that engage with the diff carrier. These are quite large and have a taper for most of their length. The result of applying torque during this period of partial engagement is that these two dog teeth get damaged and the locker cannot engage correctly.
Having said that, this is the first one I have seen where the locking sleeve disintegrated, and perhaps something else happened here.
Once the locker is properly engaged, it is plenty strong, I have abused mine enough to know that.
- biggles
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Re: Rear Diff Lock Options
The problem it is part of the system. Any one part goes and you do not have a difflock, or as in my case only a locked diff. I strongly suspect a faulty solenoid, resulted in a half locked diff that resulted in a broken actuator that resulted damage to the fork and ring.
ARB ordered
Not messing around iether Getting this compressor. Thought that if I need a compressor just to make the diff lock work I might as well get a useful one.
ARB ordered
Not messing around iether Getting this compressor. Thought that if I need a compressor just to make the diff lock work I might as well get a useful one.
With great Power comes Great Fuel Consumption
- ChristoSlang
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Re: Rear Diff Lock Options
ARB manufactures and additional fitting so that you can also use the compressor for inflating tires
- biggles
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Re: Rear Diff Lock Options
Jup, the manifold.ChristoSlang wrote:ARB manufactures and additional fitting so that you can also use the compressor for inflating tires
In the pic i posted it is the vertically mounted thingy with a pipe coming from the compressor.
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Re: Rear Diff Lock Options
I suppose that it is possible – I do not understand the system well enough to really be able to comment on it. But a partially locked setup could perhaps result in severe damage, that I can see.biggles wrote:I strongly suspect a faulty solenoid, resulted in a half locked diff that resulted in a broken actuator that resulted damage to the fork and ring.
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