Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
- Peter Connan
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Thread tape or even better a low-grade loctite thread sealant are a good idea, although not strictly necesary as those are taper threads and you have a constant supplu of vacuum.
If you use loctite just make sure you don't over-tighten the fittings, particularly the breather, and that you allow some time to dry before applying vacuum.
If you use loctite just make sure you don't over-tighten the fittings, particularly the breather, and that you allow some time to dry before applying vacuum.
Mag ons ons kenniskry met lekkerkry aanhoukry.
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
So the new valve is in , but the vacuum doesn't switch over to port B
For the first try, I connected a blue and black wire to each end of the valve using block connectors, assuming that there's a solenoid at each end, and the wiring would reflect that. I didn't pay attention to the polarity since I was told the valve only cares if the wire's hot or not. I plugged in the vacuum pump side and got suction at port A. I stood back, very chuffed with myself that I essentially replicated what my broken Hitachi valve could do (the bottom solenoid on that one was broken )
From here on we could only make progress. Engaged 4H with difflock switch in ON pos - no suction at port B, still only at port A.
I started fiddling, and after trying a whole lot of things, I could get it to switch the vacuum from port A to B. Thinking I had won, I start modifying the old bracket, spraypaint it, tape up all the wiring, and re-fit everyting. With everything fitted, I try once more to see if it still switches, but it doesn't.
I undo the whole thing again, fiddle some more. I get it working again! Tape it up, re-fit, and .... not working!
So now I'm exactly where I was with the old solenoids, except that I also tested that my diff does lock by switching the vacuum hoses around. The difflock light stopped flashing and went solid. I was on tar, so I just crept forward and backwards without turning, so I don't know if the mechanics actually did what the difflock light was saying, but until I get to a softer surface, I'll take the light as a good sign.
I'll take it to Nissan next to check the electrics from the dash switch up to the valve. I shudder to think what that might cost.
To everyone who helped and gave advice, thanks for getting me this far, I appreciate it
For the first try, I connected a blue and black wire to each end of the valve using block connectors, assuming that there's a solenoid at each end, and the wiring would reflect that. I didn't pay attention to the polarity since I was told the valve only cares if the wire's hot or not. I plugged in the vacuum pump side and got suction at port A. I stood back, very chuffed with myself that I essentially replicated what my broken Hitachi valve could do (the bottom solenoid on that one was broken )
From here on we could only make progress. Engaged 4H with difflock switch in ON pos - no suction at port B, still only at port A.
I started fiddling, and after trying a whole lot of things, I could get it to switch the vacuum from port A to B. Thinking I had won, I start modifying the old bracket, spraypaint it, tape up all the wiring, and re-fit everyting. With everything fitted, I try once more to see if it still switches, but it doesn't.
I undo the whole thing again, fiddle some more. I get it working again! Tape it up, re-fit, and .... not working!
So now I'm exactly where I was with the old solenoids, except that I also tested that my diff does lock by switching the vacuum hoses around. The difflock light stopped flashing and went solid. I was on tar, so I just crept forward and backwards without turning, so I don't know if the mechanics actually did what the difflock light was saying, but until I get to a softer surface, I'll take the light as a good sign.
I'll take it to Nissan next to check the electrics from the dash switch up to the valve. I shudder to think what that might cost.
To everyone who helped and gave advice, thanks for getting me this far, I appreciate it
- PECS
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Hi Guys, as with everything in life the prices went up a bit on these valves and the barbed hose fittings, this is our first price increase in years..PECS wrote:
Now, we are the MAC agents in Southern Africa and stock these valves specifically for the PATROL, The correct part number of this vacuum solenoid valve is: 45A-GC1-DDBA-1BA-Mod-532F and the price at the moment (August 2011) is R617-00 excl. VAT. As a special offer to all forum members we will offer a 5% discount on this price.
For any details please contact Riaan - 0822695830 or Michael - 0119071910
The new price for the MAC 45A-GC1-DDBA-1BA-Mod-532F valve will be R710-00ea excl. VAT. and the barbed fittings are R18-00ea excl VAT.
Remember that you guys still get the special with the 5% discount on these goodies too..
Hope to keep you guys off-roading for a long time to come still..
Regards
Riaan
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Peter Connan wrote:Mooiskoot Jules, Gerrit
By the way Jules, I have made many okes green by showing them that my car is in 2wd before tackling a serious cross-axle, and then just idling through where their Landys (and some others) just can't make it through because they lack a difflock.
On some Toyota bakkies, you actually have to be in low range to be able to activate the diff lock.
Mine will not activate unless the vehicle is in 4wd. The light just flashes. Actual engagement and steady light will only occur in 4wd, whether high or low.
- Marino4x4
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Hi Clem
The older Y60's can engage their difflock in 2H, the newer Y61 from 1998 can only engage difflock in 4x4, 4H and 4L.
The older Y60's can engage their difflock in 2H, the newer Y61 from 1998 can only engage difflock in 4x4, 4H and 4L.
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Thank you for the clarification.Marino4x4 wrote:Hi Clem
The older Y60's can engage their difflock in 2H, the newer Y61 from 1998 can only engage difflock in 4x4, 4H and 4L.
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
HI myne se solenoid was bietjie geroes ek het hom gestrip en skoon gemaak maar daar is nog steeds net vacuum op die oop kant van die diff lock as ek hom aan sit sal ook probeer om hom eers in 4x4 te sit ek het 'n 2006 model daar is 12volt op die oop kant as die difflock af is en as hy aan is is daar 12volt aan die toe kant maar daar is nog steeds 6 volt op die oop kant wat volgens my weg moet weesClem wrote:Thank you for the clarification.Marino4x4 wrote:Hi Clem
The older Y60's can engage their difflock in 2H, the newer Y61 from 1998 can only engage difflock in 4x4, 4H and 4L.
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Marxie..het jy update of jou difflock uitgesort is? Post update asb. Dankie
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Please help me guys...I also have back difflock that does not engage, and dash light flickers. I pulled off the bottom pipe on solenoid (that suppose to engage difflock) and instead of solenoid blowing at bottom nipple...I get very faint but definite suction from solenoid.
Then on top nipple on solenoid I get very strong suction that is suppose to disengage difflock when switched off. I am a bit confused what's happening here. Please assist me with info and problem solving.
Then on top nipple on solenoid I get very strong suction that is suppose to disengage difflock when switched off. I am a bit confused what's happening here. Please assist me with info and problem solving.
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- Alex Roux
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Re: Diff-lock (vacuum solenoid) problems? - We can help..
Hi Johan
Firstly, do not fuss too much aboutthe diff lock dash light flashing or not. That switch works indepdnently form the activaiton of the diff lock it self and has a strong penchant for corroding and eventually not indicating correctly, when in fact the difflock itself may be working perfectly fine.
To test whether the diff lock is working or not, only do so when in 4x4 mode (for GU models). Take a sharp slow turn and keep an eye on the inside wheel, whether this is "biting" (plowing) into the ground or not. Do not do this on tarmac - to limit the stress on the rear axle. If it is "biting", diff lock works.
W.r.t. the pipes:
When deactivating, the one needs to suck, and when activating, the other needs to blow. Or something like that. Can't remember!
Try all permutations first before concluding what should have happened, because it may not be clear form the pipes on the solenoid on the engine firewall which should be doing what when.
1) If the solenoid works, and the locker does not activate, the problem may be a leak in the pipes going to the rear.
Check the same pipes as they go into the rear diff for blowing and sucking.
2) If the solenoid does not work, to replace avoid the Nissan stealers, as that can cost you a good few grand (they quoted me R11,000 at a time that it was not even broken!). There is a more reasonable option advertised somewhere else on this forum.
For a leak in the pipe, I would suggest going to Graham Cummings. I would not recommend the mackies at Nissan as this part off the Patrol is quite specialised and they are very unlikely to have experience in fixing it.
Firstly, do not fuss too much aboutthe diff lock dash light flashing or not. That switch works indepdnently form the activaiton of the diff lock it self and has a strong penchant for corroding and eventually not indicating correctly, when in fact the difflock itself may be working perfectly fine.
To test whether the diff lock is working or not, only do so when in 4x4 mode (for GU models). Take a sharp slow turn and keep an eye on the inside wheel, whether this is "biting" (plowing) into the ground or not. Do not do this on tarmac - to limit the stress on the rear axle. If it is "biting", diff lock works.
W.r.t. the pipes:
When deactivating, the one needs to suck, and when activating, the other needs to blow. Or something like that. Can't remember!
Try all permutations first before concluding what should have happened, because it may not be clear form the pipes on the solenoid on the engine firewall which should be doing what when.
1) If the solenoid works, and the locker does not activate, the problem may be a leak in the pipes going to the rear.
Check the same pipes as they go into the rear diff for blowing and sucking.
2) If the solenoid does not work, to replace avoid the Nissan stealers, as that can cost you a good few grand (they quoted me R11,000 at a time that it was not even broken!). There is a more reasonable option advertised somewhere else on this forum.
For a leak in the pipe, I would suggest going to Graham Cummings. I would not recommend the mackies at Nissan as this part off the Patrol is quite specialised and they are very unlikely to have experience in fixing it.
Skilpad, Shortie, Toro & Masewa
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