My Patrol

[IanT]

Cedric has been sniffing too much of that black fog he lives in Fit a 4.5 or 4.8 petrol motor and forget about it for the rest of your life!!!

[PaulvdMerwe]

Hello julle,

Baie dankie vir die replies, ek geniet julle input.
I will be posting pictures next week and plan to do so throughout the repair. Don't expect to much though, I am on a VERY tight Budget (business comes first)
Dit is ook een van die redes hoekom ek die ZD 30 gaan regmaak. Alhoewel ek sal laaik van 'n 4.2 of 4.5...
Ek moet se, my werks bakkie is 'n Nissan Hardbody, en die het ook 'n ZD30 in, maar nie met die intercooler nie. Die bakkie werk hard, staan al op 320 000KM en nog nie 'n dag se moeilikheid nie.
Ek moet ook bieg, maar ek is nou nie van plan om serious off roading te gaan doen nie. Dis nice om te sien, maar ek huil my oe uit as my partol se sy so duik in gedruk word deur 'n rots op een of "obstical coarse"

Ricster, thanks for your input, but help me,
1. Blocking of the EGR valve, Firstly let me say I am not a fan of this concept(perhaps there is someone that can explain it to me in simple terms and make me see the positive in it) but to me , The way I see it, your engine burns gas, once that gas is used you want to get rid of the gasses, as much, as quickly and as smoothly as possible. I remember as youngsters, we worked for hours to do ports, polished them to a shine, free flow exhaust systems and what not all, just to get that burned up gasses out ASAP. It is like crapping in your desert plate while eating your Sunday lunch. Sorry back to the point. I noticed a lot of mixed comments on this, so perhaps all you clever guys can start a thread here and share all the pro's and con's of blocking the EGR valve. We can then put all that comments on as spreadsheet to weigh up if it should be done or not.
2. The oil can makes sense, and I will definitely invest in this in the near future, but for now, with the engine being overhauled I hope not to get blow by to the degree that I have to install it now.
3. What is the deal with the dipstick being to short, or the oil not being enough? If this level is to high you will get blow by in to the air intake, so what is the correct amount of oil that goes into this engine?

Chat again....
Paul

[ricster]

I could help you strip down and rebuild and problem solve comfortably on a TD42 motor. I'm a 4.2 turbo diesel nutjob, so my knowledge is "limited" on the 3.0 motor. But I've always been interested in learning about the ZD30 motor as it really isn't a bad motor for its size and the size of the Patrol body.

1. Blocking of the EGR valve, Firstly let me say I am not a fan of this concept(perhaps there is someone that can explain it to me in simple terms and make me see the positive in it) but to me , The way I see it, your engine burns gas, once that gas is used you want to get rid of the gasses, as much, as quickly and as smoothly as possible. I remember as youngsters, we worked for hours to do ports, polished them to a shine, free flow exhaust systems and what not all, just to get that burned up gasses out ASAP. It is like crapping in your desert plate while eating your Sunday lunch. Sorry back to the point. I noticed a lot of mixed comments on this, so perhaps all you clever guys can start a thread here and share all the pro's and con's of blocking the EGR valve. We can then put all that comments on as spreadsheet to weigh up if it should be done or not.

The way I understand the blocking off of the EGR is exactly what you are trying to achieve as you stated above ( you want to get rid of the gasses, as much, as quickly and as smoothly as possible). From your exhaust manifold you have an exhaust pipe running to the back of the vehicle dumping the exhaust gasses out to atmosphere, but there is a second pipe from the exhaust manifold that feeds those same exhaust gasses back into the inlet manifold which is controlled by the EGR valve.
From what I have understood on the various forums ( SA & Aussie ) is that carbon deposits from the exhaust gasses, and if I'm not mistaken from the oil vapour ( if one doesn't have an oil catch can ) over time causes the valve to stick which in turn causes the ECU to register an incorrect fueling figure. The ECU then decides to dump more fuel into the motor causing massive heat and possibly some serious over boost too if you have a variable vane turbo, and subsequently the "hand grenade" effect.
Blocking the EGR ensures th exhaust gasses go directly to the exhaust outlet and out to atmosphere.... no crapping in the desert plate..... hahahahaha

2. The oil can makes sense, and I will definitely invest in this in the near future, but for now, with the engine being overhauled I hope not to get blow by to the degree that I have to install it now.

They are really not expensive and will make life so much easier to do while the motor is stripped ( spanner rash is a bugger ).

3. What is the deal with the dipstick being to short, or the oil not being enough? If this level is to high you will get blow by in to the air intake, so what is the correct amount of oil that goes into this engine?

No clue on this .... but you will definitively get an answer from the other guys here that know a lot more than I do.

[PaulvdMerwe]

Finally some pic's....


The outside


The Inside


The damage.

[PaulvdMerwe]

Hi,

So I reposted the pic's , hopefuly you can see my new pride and joy now.....

[Michael]

Paul

1. The EGR is pretty much what you say about the desert thing , the only con in blocking it off is that you can worst case get a little boost spike.....specially at low altitude. The VVT of the turbo will regulate the boost, but every now and then it cannot reduce the boost quick enough and then the EGR valve is opened to dump even more boost. So if you block it you will get a boost spike every now and then. JoshJ has done it on his 2013 3.0 and can give more info on the matter.
2. I dont think the oil catch can is needed because of blow by, JoshJ bought is brand new and his has used oil since day one.
3. I have no idea what the deal is about the dipstick....never heard of this before

[PaulvdMerwe]

Michael,

Thanks for your input, I will get hold of JoshJ, it sounds as if he is the man with answers.

Thanks

[Peter Connan]

I am not a diesel expert, and my memory is not what I wish it was, but:
1) an oil catch-can need not cost any money at all. An oil catch can is a legal requirement in track-racing cars, and most guys just use a plastic bottle or (if they want to be fancy) an aluminium cycling-style water bottle.
2) I am under the impression that one of the changes made to the ZD30 to tame the hand-grenade failures was an increase in sump capacity and a different dip-stick. Not sure about this though.

I have a friend who had one of these, in the same colour. He traded it in on a 4.8 a couple of years ago.

[Bekker]

Jy is volkome korrek Peter. Hulle gebruik 'n korter "dipstick". Ek is nie seker of die "sump" ook verander is is nie maar ek verbeel my ek het so iets gelees, maar dat hulle die olie volume groter gemaak het is 'n feit.

[PaulvdMerwe]

Baie dankie vir al julle input,

Van wat ek verstaan is die boost range van die ZD30 so tussen 9 -11 PSI, as die EGR valve afgeblok word verhoog die boost na so 14 - 16 PSI, maar die boost is vinniger daar, so dit wil vir my voorkom asof dit goed sal wees om die EGR af te blok en dan eerder net die boost weer af te stel na 9 -11 PSI.

Was die Catalic converter standard op die 2002 Patrols? Ek sien my Partol het nie een in nie, so is dit verwyder, of het dit so uit gekom?

Dankie julle