Patrol Pics

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Re: Bridgestone 4x4 Club Challenge - 6 April 2013

Ja Jorrie, dit was baie tegnies vir party van ons.
Hier is ''n kort video van die maklikste een,

Dit was ongelukkig die enigste een wat ek kon gebruik.
by ama-glug-glug
09 Apr 2013 05:26
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Hier is een van kant af! :blonde:
by NISMOnator
04 Apr 2013 07:58
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Buy A Patrol? Let us evaluate it for you. Free of charge.

Hi Everyone.
If anyone is interested in buying a Patrol and would like to have it evaluated before purchase, give Graham a call.
Graham will check it out from top to bottom, inside and out and give you his professional opinion.
Ask the seller to bring it to us, and you can tag along of course, and get first hand information on possible further expenses.
If the seller refuses a technical inspection by an independent party always ask WHY? :think:

We offer this service free of charge to forum members ... or potential forum members.

Enjoy your day and happy trolling! QQQ

Graham & Vanessa (G-Tech Motors)
012 6513447
083 417 7503
by PathMaker
11 Apr 2013 10:38
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Re: Projek Yster.

Ok Tommie asked me to post the dyno sheet for Yster so here comes the eye candy
by Grootseun
11 Apr 2013 21:44
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Re: Nissan 4x4 Club event 13 April - NEW TRAIL !!

Isuzu lead the way....
by jvg
13 Apr 2013 17:53
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Re: Skottel Braai

Attached the photos of the skottelbraai as promised.

It is a bit dirty as it was lying outside since the melt down. :rolling:
by Izak
03 Oct 2012 08:33
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Re: Recovery Gear & Points

Sal so maak. Kom kyk eers hoe lyk myne. Dan kan jy self besluit en bestel en ek kan dit vir jou saambring uit Kaap uit.
by Jorrie
26 Apr 2013 22:50
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Re: Recovery Gear & Points

My Troll's two front recovery points are now fitted.
Thanks Peter Connan.
by Jorrie
19 May 2013 16:39
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Wimpie's Patrol - provider of good memories - RIP (2001-2013

Wimpie's Patrol - provider of good memories - RIP (2001-2013)

May you surviving spare parts live long in other Patrols

Alex (47).jpg

Burgert (31).jpg

Burgert (37).jpg

Cedric (8).jpg

Cedric (53).jpg

Cedric (57).jpg

Cedric (58).jpg

Cedric (60).jpg

Louis (629).jpg

Wimpe (65).JPG

Wimpe (372).JPG

Wimpe (379).JPG

Wimpe (386).JPG
by Alex Roux
09 Jun 2013 11:02
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Re: 4.8 coils in n GQ?

I have 4.8 coils on my swb safari. Gives a lift of around 40mm.
by Adrianjvr
17 Jun 2013 10:45
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Re: Faces of the Namid

I did the Luderitz to Walvis trip a couple of years ago with my Colt Rodeo 3L and the next year a trip through Botwana which included thick sand driving from Chobe through Savuti and Moremi with the same vehicle. My loads were similar but although the Botswana (sand) trip part is heavy on your consumption it's no comparison to the Namib dune's driving (re consumption) - Although you drive a lot with momentum and equal revs for a substantial part in the Namib you have to drop and accelerate a lot due to the dune surface and route the guides take - which in turn just eats up a lot of fuel. We had the saying that if you are nervous to see your rev counter going towards (and sometimes even in) the red rather put a sticker over it. Those dunes are huge and needs a lot of revs to clear - I did quite a bit of overlanding and 4x4ing but this trip really makes one appreciate the pounding these vehicles can take.

What is very true on the other hand is what Peter and Tinus said re low range - you will definitely save fuel keeping it in low range rather than high range and trying to keep the revs as far as possible on the same level - But boy o boy with all that power its a blast !!

This is just a absolute must do trip. Rob a bank, sell the wife's rings .... do whatever it takes - you won't regret it.
by jan.dup
19 Jun 2013 17:54
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Re: Lesotho Trip - 15th- 17th June 2013

ha ha ha... nice one Mr Rod... :rolling: :rolling:
by ricster
20 Jun 2013 08:12
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Re: Rim/Wheel Options

My 2c worth apply.
May be you can carry spacers with you incase of emergency but I wont fit them permenantly.

Center bore means what?
The center bore of an alloy wheel is the size of the hole at the back of the wheel which the hub fits into. To help the wheels to seat properly this hole needs to be an exact match to the size of the hub.

Most modern wheels are what's called hub-centric. This means that the hub which protrudes from your car, and mates with the equivalent sized hole at the back of your wheel, is load bearing. All that the studs or bolts do is holding the wheel onto the hub.

If you have lug-centric wheels, the state of your studs or bolts is obviously more important - be sure to replace these from time to time and always 3/4 tighten the wheels off the car to make sure they're centered.
by Bekker
16 Jul 2013 16:21
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Re: Crown Wheel and Pinion Replacement Options??

FINALLY.....The Concluding Chapter!!

Took delivery of the Patrol on Wednesday, re-fitted with the original axle, and a brand new diff center from Nissan, and it is driving perfectly!! What a huge relief to finally be back up and running. :woo: :woo: :woo:

For the benefit of anyone who is unfortunate enough to be left in a similar predicament in future, I thought I`d share a few thoughts and lessons no particular order:

1. Be very careful of second hand parts. I think these can often be a very viable route to save costs, however in this instance it led to being badly burned even though I thought I had taken the appropriate precautions (getting it checked by a diff specialist prior to purchase).

2. Related to the above, a visual check may not be sufficient to detect issues with second hand parts (particularly axles and diffs in this case). The second hand axle proved to have a bent axle casing, as well as a bent pinion shaft, however there was no visual evidence of this. When checked on an alignment machine however the rear wheels had a toe in of 18.4mm.

3. If you`re in a tight spot, there are specialists around who claim to be able to straighten a bent axle. Before the bent pinion was discovered, the axle casing was sent to such a specialist. Their work improved the alignment reading from 18.4mm toe in, to 3mm toe in, which is a significant improvement, however I would have sent the casing back had the bent pinion not resulted in me abandoning the 4.5 axle swop. The ideal spec for minimum tyre wear would be less than 1mm, whether this degree of accuracy would be achievable if I had followed through is hard to say, but probably worth a shot if anyone has the mis-fortune of bending an axle for whatever reason.

4. Conventional wisdom seems to be that if a pinion shaft cannot bend without either cracking the diff casing, or causing visible damage to crown and pinion teeth. This is not the case! When spun up in a lathe the 4.5 pinion has a distinct wobble/run out (the cause of a bad vibration on over-run when fitted to the vehicle), however there is absolutely no other visible damage…gear teeth look brand new.

5. A H260 rear axle is a direct swop into a H233B axle vehicle, the only thing that requires modification is the propshaft, which must be shortened by 50mm to accommodate the larger H260 diff casing. The propshaft will physically bolt up, but the slip joint will be maxed which will cause problems.

6. If you bargain hard and play the dealers off against each other re discounts, a new ring and pinion for the H233B rear diff can be had for around R6800 Ex VAT….in retrospect, this is a BARGAIN!! Carrier bearings and pinion bearings should be available from the aftermarket bearing suppliers, so its probably only the collapsible spacer that you would need extra from Nissan. Faced with the same situation again, this is the route I should have gone. Not doing my homework properly with regard to the Agent prices caused me to go down a 7 month dead end!!!!!

7. Rear axle bearings are difficult to obtain from the aftermarket suppliers, and are very expensive from Nissan. Rear Axle bearings are however obtainable from Bearings International (Bearing Man swore they were agent only!), however the grease seal is only available from Nissan. Good Quality (jap) rear axle bearings cost R1k per side from Bearings International, vs R2.2k per side from Nissan. Nissan will however still fleece you another R1k for the seals!!!

8. When re-installing a diff, do ensure that you refer to the shimming procedure for the actuator, outlined within the workshop manual. If the actuator is not properly shimmed, you may not be getting a full engagement of the mechanism which will lead to a increased likelihood of failure under load.

Okay…think that’s about all I can think of for now. Hope some of the hard lessons learned over the last 7 months will save some other people some hassles.

Have ended up with the remains of the abandoned 4.5 rear axle. It is not usable as a unit, however the following component parts are available and known to be good. If they are of use to you, please PM me.

- 4.5 (H260) diff carrier with spider gears and diff lock mechanism
- Diff lock actuator
- 4.5 (H260) side shafts, with R 2k worth of brand new axle bearings pressed on.
- Various other related axle parts


by Ross
26 Jul 2013 20:10
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Re: Moegatle Weekend: 19th - 21st July

Moegatle 2013 263.jpg

Moegatle 2013 257.jpg
by ricster
27 Jul 2013 00:58
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Re: Reversing up an steep incline!!!

OK - here are the procedures as copied from the Electronic Service Manual... :thumbup:

Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
“Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully released position of the
accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed
each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
“Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve
by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector
of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning
“Idle Air Volume Learning” is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the
specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:
+ Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
+ Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
Before performing “Idle Air Volume Learning”, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
+ Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
+ Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 95°C (158 - 203°F)
+ PNP switch: ON
+ Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, set lighting switch to the 1st position to light
only small lamps.
+ Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
+ Vehicle speed: Stopped
+ Transmission: Warmed-up
For models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “FLUID TEMP SE” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T”
system indicates less than 0.9V.
For A/T models without CONSULT-II, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.

+ It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
+ It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
has a malfunction.
1. Perform EC-31, “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform EC-31, “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MI stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MI turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
Idle speed 675±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing 10±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, “Idle Air Volume Learning” will not be
carried out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the “Diagnostic Procedure”


If idle air volume learning cannot be performed successfully, proceed as follows:
1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2. Check PCV valve operation.
3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.
4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition
are questionable. Check and eliminate the cause of the incident.
It is useful to perform EC-108, “TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS — SPECIFICATION VALUE”.
5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the
incident and perform “Idle air volume learning” all over again:
— Engine stalls.
— Erroneous idle.

In the unlikely event of an abnormality in the electrical system, when the ignition switch to “ON” position, the
A/T CHECK indicator lamp lights up for 2 seconds, then flashes for 8 seconds. If there is no abnormality,
when the ignition switch to “ON” position, the indicator lamp lights up for 2 seconds. As a method for locating
the problem position, when the self-diagnostics start signal is input, the memory for the breakdown location
is output and the A/T CHECK indicator lamp flashes to display the problem position.
Diagnostic Procedure
1. Start the engine with selector lever in “P” position. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Ignition switch to “ON” and “OFF” position at least twice, then leave it in the “OFF” position.
3. Wait 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch to “ON” position.
(Do not start engine.)
5. Does A/T CHECK indicator lamp come on for about 2 seconds?
Yes or No?
Yes >> GO TO 2.
No >> GO TO AT-168, “A/T CHECK Indicator Lamp does not come on”.

1. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position.
2. Push shift lock release button.
3. Move selector lever from “P” to “D” position.
4. Set the closed throttle position switch to “OFF”. (Depressed accelerator pedal at half throttle)
5. Depressed brake pedal. (Brake switch to “ON” position.)
6. Turn ignition switch to “ON” position.
7. Wait 3 seconds.
8. Manual mode switch to “ON” position. (Move the selector lever to “M” position.)
9. Released brake pedal. (Brake switch to “OFF” position.)
10. Manual mode switch to “OFF” position. (Move the selector lever to “D” position.)
11. Depressed brake pedal. (Brake switch to “ON” position.)
12. Released brake pedal. (Brake switch to “OFF” position.)
13. Depress accelerator pedal fully and release it.
>> GO TO 3.

Check A/T CHECK indicator lamp.
Refer to AT-74, “Judgement Self-Diagnosis Code”.
If the system does not go into self-diagnostics. Refer to AT-164, “PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION,


The A/T CHECK indicator lamp is located on the instrument panel.
1. If the ignition switch stays “ON” after repair work, be sure to turn ignition switch “OFF” once. Wait at least
10 seconds and then turn it “ON” (engine stopped) again.
2. Perform self-diagnostic procedure.
(The engine warm-up step can be skipped when performing the diagnosis only to erase
the DTC.)
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position. (The self-diagnostic results will be erased.)
by David
02 Aug 2013 08:18
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Re: Rust de Winter - Nissan Club weekend away 2013


No charge for persons doing the trail.
by Grant
15 Aug 2013 14:47
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Re: Inner Axle Oil Seal

Zantus... did you manage to find "somewhere" yet..... :lol:

It's been a while, but I just found the invoice. Part numbers and descriptions are as per the invoice, and prices are the ex VAT prices.

OIL SEAL - 40227C8200 - R125
SEAL-GREASE FRT HUB - 4023201J00 - R75
SEAL-OIL INNER D/SHA - 4053301J00 - R257
by Zantus
17 Aug 2013 22:31
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Re: 16" rim dimensions

This is in the manual:
by Herrie
21 Aug 2013 18:25
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Re: 1999's Alarm Remote Replacement

Independent car radio in Centurion are agents for the alarm type that the patrols came out with, there number is 012 663 5136 they should be able to supply you with new remotes
by petrol
27 Aug 2013 21:07
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Re: Transfer Case Assembly Procedure

Here is the handbrake assembly. I did not disconect the cable in the drum but rather where the cable attach to a L shape lever arm on the chassis, easy.
The location of the oil gutter, the orientation of the odometer gear with shims.
Just the mid section after the chain cover has been removed.
by Tim
28 Aug 2013 13:28
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Namib dune trip Aug 2013

We did one of these 6 day dune trips through the Namib from Aus to Walvis. This is just to give you a flavour of what you will do for your R7000 each.

First thing its tyres down to 0.8 bar (hot). I thought that it was a bit soft so I tried it at 1 bar but I couldn't make it over some of the obstacles with such hard tyres. when you wake up in the morning your tyres look almost completely flat. Thick sand driving is very different to the kind of driving we have been doing in and around Gauteng with the Nissan 4x4 club. Average fuel consumption is 3 to 4 km/litre for 650kms.

The first 2 days was driving through thick sand with lots of grass clumps. So its 2nd and 3rd low ratio all the time with never more than about 10m in a straight line. Turn this way turn the other way and again and again. forget about those pictures of nice smooth brown dunes with hard sand. By the end of the two days the hands are sore from turning the steering wheel.

With a patrol like mine in thick sand when you turn nothing happens. You have to turn well before you actually get to the corner because it carries on straight till you start wondering, did I really turn the wheel or not? Then after what seems like an age the big ship starts to turn. Now the problem is that the time delay after you turn when nothing is happening is different according to speed and how hard or soft the sand is. It takes practice.

In amongst this is the odd obstacle. Some are 1.5 kms long, with turns and grass klomps and bad cross axels. To get out on top you are going flat out in 3rd low ratio, red lining the rev counter all the way and belting over humps and holes in a way that makes you think you are killing your precious 4x4. Its real voet in die hoek and tie down the load stuff. If like me, you are lucky enough to be at the back everyone in front of you will have messed up the "track" and your job will be more difficult. Don't be fooled by the nice pictures - your vehicle is going to take a hammering. The nice part is that you really learn where the power band is on your rev counter.

Then when you get amongst the dunes proper there are the slip faces down the dunes, almost vertical where its all about slow as you go and keeping it straight when you have virtually no traction. Get sideways and that's it you are gone. The real tricky part is hurtling up a long dune at pace and timing it so that you stop just over the crest and you don't hurtle down the slip face! Another little worry are those tight turns at the bottom of the slip face with your tyres at 0.8 bar. think a bit about that.

Something about the vehicles. There were only 4 standard vehicles in our group. The others were all modified. There were 2 patrols, a 4.2 SGL and 4.5 petrol. a Toyota double cab bakkie D4D (diesel with turbo) and a Toyota 70 series Land Cruiser - diesel (no turbo). Well you may be surprised, as I was, to learn that the one that performed the best was the Toyota bakkie and the worst was the 70 series which really struggled to have the power on the long up hill obstacles.

The guide had a modified 4.5 litre Toyota bakkie. It had a modified chip but that engine really impressed me. It was far more powerful than the 4.5 l Patrol. its a pity that they don't make those any more.

It may be obvious, you need a good guide. Its quite easy to get your self in a real jam in the dunes. This would take too long to explain. The same applies to those stretches where you have to make a dash along the beach at low tide. There were some long patches of very wet and soft sand where recovery would have been very difficult before the tide changed. So again its voet in die hoek and forget about the sea water in your engine!

The views are fantastic and don't forget your sand board! Here are some pics from our trip.
Namibian sign.jpg

dune boarding.jpg

Fish river canyon.jpg

Messum Crater.jpg

Sossusvlei dawn.jpg
by Overdrive
04 Sep 2013 19:00
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