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Re: General Grabber M/T

Ok so it has now been around 7,500km since I fitted the General Grabber 33x12.5x15 Muds on my Patrol and here is how I feel so far

Road Noise: 3/5
Road noise is very acceptable and is noticeably quieter than the BF KO2's I had on. It is a MT tyre so I guess it will never be as quiet as an AT, but it is really not loud and people don't turn around to see what is coming up the street anymore.....so I think it's above average in the class.

Ride Comfort: 4/5
The ride is softer than before and even with the beefy tyres I dont seem to have problems with steering wheel shakes or death wobbles. They do seem to add quite a bit of wheel weights when balancing, but it really feels good on the road. I was expecting a bit more tyre roll than what I had with the 305/70/16 tyres, but I cannot feel any difference. I run them on 2.2 bar unloaded and think that's the ideal pressure as my daily drive.

Tyre wear: ?/5
Over the 7,500km I have covered so far you cannot see any tyre wear so I think it might be a bit premature to really say. It did show a bit of heal/toe wear on the rear tyres which is normal for MT tyres, but it was so little that you could only pick it up with chalk while it rotates on the wheel alignment machine

Rocky terrain performance: 5/5
I was very impressed with the performance the tyres gave on an outing we did at Hennops 4x4 trail. With the KO2's I had on I had to engage diff lock on the rocky climb section as well as the very steep long hill obsticle. This time round I did the whole trail without diff lock as the Grabbers really have impressive grip. I think the biggest factor is the wider tyre (about 25mm) as well as the lower pressure I can run them at which creates an enormous footprint. I was very impressed to say the least, and could not find any fault.
Even when looking at the damage the rock does to the tyre, its minimal and very acceptable to me.

Sand performance: 5/5
Well here is where there are allot of opinions on MT vs AT and 3 ply sidewalls vs 2 ply, but again I was impressed. I somehow knew that they were going to be good in the sand, but they did better than what I expected. I could run the tyre pressure as low as 0.4 bar without de-beading them.
There was one dune which I could drive out where not one 4.8 could, and I think the tyres played the biggest role here. Dropping the preassure from 0.6 to 0.4 made all the difference.

Here is a video of attempt 1 starting in 3L and downshifting to 2L just before you reach the top.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evhl9rbhUSg

Here is the 4th attempt doing exactly what I did in the first video but now running 0.4 bar on the tyres.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emelgxI6E9c

Overall I am really glad I bought these tyres. I think they are worth more than what I paid for them and you really get great tyres for the price.
Hopefully they will continue to impress me, but it is still early stages so lets see.

I will post my findings when they have done about 15,000km to 20,000km to get a better idea of how it wears.
by Michael
03 Apr 2017 08:28
 
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Re: Wanted: double din center console

DDin.jpg

You cut the lipped part out and glue in at the bottom to fill the gap.
by David M
04 Apr 2017 17:01
 
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Re: My '98 GU 4.2D

Peter, I assume that is the air speed in the pipes leading in and out of the box itself. The biggest issue is to get the air speed from 6.34m/s (9.67m/s) as it exits the inlet pipe into the airbox, to as slow a velocity as possible to allow the filter medium to capture the dust particles. Once through the filter the air velocity will speed up again to the 8.68m/s (13.23m/s). Getting the air velocity slow enough inside the airbox is the crucial part.

I have a 4.5's airbox at home with the Nissan filter at home that I was looking at using for my Patrol, but also noticed that the gap between the filter housing and the OD of the filter is also extremely small for my liking. The air entering the airbox only has XXdm2 area to spin around the filter. Smaller dm2 area means faster speed, enlarge the area and the air speed will drop. Ok .... on a cyclonic filter housing slowing the air speed down defeats the cyclonic effect efficiency, so I presume a balance between the 2 is necessary.

On mine I am trying the flat type filter in a shaped rectangular box to slow and defuse the air slightly, without restricting it, getting it down to acceptable speeds for at least a 4,8 at 6000prm. I have to get a balance between filter medium m2 (bear in mind not all manufacturers of filters have the same m2 filter medium on the same part number filter), and airbox volume. Getting the air speed through the filter as slow as possible is the key issue.

Imaging the air speed on a super/turbo charged 4.8.... :surprised: :surprised: :surprised:
by ricster
07 Apr 2017 08:38
 
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Nissan Patrol as Ekspidisievoertuig (WegRy wenbrief)

Ek het hierdie brief gesien in die nuwe WegRy (Vergelyk die Nissan Patrol met die Toyota Land Cruiser)

IMG_20170406_124214.jpg

:thumbup:
by ces
08 Apr 2017 14:34
 
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Re: Winch?

Hey....i have a cousin in the winch business. ....give me a call and all........hehehehe
I can organise some good prices on come up winches :thumbup: got a couple for forum members before
by Tinus lotz
21 Apr 2017 16:45
 
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Starter Service - 4.5

I've yet to write a (non)-trip report, in which I will include all details of the issues I had on the way to Kasane. In the meantime, some explanations and similar for the issues I had on the way.

Firstly, symptoms were similar to dead battery or alternator. Battled starting, low voltage on battery and similar. Sadly, I did not take my multimeter with, or I would have diagnosed this much quicker and this may have saved our trip. Not entirely sure.

In any case, all measurements taken at the time permanently showed very low voltages on the main battery, although alternator voltages all seemed to be relatively OK. Later, we assumed that it was a dud alternator regulator or battery. Replaced battery in Gaborone (at that point, my main battery was very badly worn - voltages reading at 10.5V), but still had no luck in starting, even with jump starting. So I started to suspect the starter.

In any case, I pulled every fuse not necessary for vehicle operation, and we got a push start in Gabs. Drove straight through to Brits. Border staff on both BW and ZA sides were kind enough to let me stay with the truck to keep it running. If it had died then, I am not sure whether it would have started again. Got back to Brits on Thursday evening. Disappointing, but these things happen.

After stripping the starter, the reasons for issues became apparent. It would appear that the starter had been (very poorly) reconned in the past, and the previous moron had greased the armature. This resulted in a thick, conductive paste being present throughout the area around the brushes - where the grease had combined with carbon from the brushes. Also, the grease in the planetary gears was incredibly old and horrible. A further burn was present on one of the commutators, which was probably where the starter was shorting on every attempted start. My assumption is that the dead short when attempting to start was what was eating the batteries.

I've got the truck running reliably now whilst I wait for my new starter motor (a Mitsubishi one - which is a 9th of the price of a Nissan one). This is a quick overview of what I did, and how things fit together.

STARTER-1.jpg

Disassembly

NB: When removing the starter from the vehicle, please remember to disconnect the battery...

1: Disconnect the battery, remove the starter (spanners required: 10 for battery terminals. 12 for battery to solenoid connection. 14 for the two bolts attaching the starter to the motor).
2: Disconnect solenoid -> starter connector (12 spanner). Unclip the solenoid connection on the outside of the starter. Remove the solenoid from the starter (10 spanner).
3: Remove the back plate of the starter. (8 spanner).
4: Remove the two screws holding the brush-plate to the starter (phillips screw driver).
5: Remove the back cover.
6: Use a screwdriver to remove the clip on the end of the armature shaft, then remove the brush plate.
7: Remove the armature housing (the armature will come out with it). And then pull the armature out of the housing
8: Remove the plate covering the planetary gears, and lever out the planetary hears. Make sure the small black seal is remove without damage.
9: Remove the yoke from the top of the starter drive.
10: Remove the starter driver assembly.

Once all is out, clean it all. For the armature, one needs to use something like electroclean to prevent damage to the varnish covering the windings. For the other bits, I cleaned out nicely with petrol. After this, I scrubbed them down using dish cleaner in the sink (don't mention this to my wife), rinsed and let them dry thoroughly....

Inspection

Check all items in the starter. What I noticed was that one commutator was pretty badly burned.

STARTER-2.jpg

I used my Lansky knife sharpening files to remove the "ball" of copper on the commutator, and clean the rest of the commutators...

STARTER-3.jpg

I also cleaned the gunk from between the various commutators.

Further inspection showed that the brushes (especially the positive brushes) were very badly worn. I tracked down a set of brushes at a local spares place. Since it was a long weekend, and no auto electricians were open, I could only replace the positive brushes as I do not trust my soldering for such a high-current application. I assumed it would work, as the earth brushes were still relatively long... (side note: it works...)

Reassembly.

1: Grease the bush at the front of the starter housing.
2: Place starter yoke into the solenoid opening, and make sure the wire ring engages onto the "circle" on the starter driver shaft. The "bump" of the yoke should point forwards.
3: Insert drive shaft into bush at the end. Make sure the yoke is properly engaged (pushing the yoke forward should move the starter pinion backward. Pulling it back should move it forwards).
4: Insert the seal between the planetary gears and the starter driver. The round bit should face forward. Take care to align it properly with the little cut-outs on the sides.

STARTER-4.jpg

5: Insert the ring gear for the planetary gear (round side in front). Once again, check the alignment. The little nubbles on the ring should fit into the recesses.

STARTER-5.jpg

6: Add the rest of the planetaries, and grease.

STARTER-6.jpg

If you'd been paying attention, you would have noticed that I forgot to put the yoke in first when I took these photographs... This is corrected in the next step. :rolling: :rolling: :rolling:

7: Put the plate on top of the planetary gears. The large protruding centre ring should interface with the ring gear. The small protruding centre ring should face backwards (towards the armature). The smaller holes on the sides are where the bolts go through.

STARTER-7.jpg

8: Insert the armature.

STARTER-8.jpg

9: Put on the armature housing. There are alignment marks on the housing which will allow you to put it on with the correct orientation.

STARTER-9.jpg

10: Next step is to put the brushplate and the backplate on. (I don't have photos of this, as my hands were full). Grease the bush in the back plate before putting it over the end of the armature shaft. Secure with the long bolts, and the two screws for the brushplate.

11: The solenoid can now be reinstalled. Take care to make sure that the slot in the solenoid fits over the yoke. Tighten up the bolts.

STARTER-A.jpg

12: The connector between the solenoid and the starter can now be reconnected.

STARTER-B.jpg

Testing

Using a spare battery, connect the negative to any point on the starter body with a jumper cable.

To test the motor, touch another jumper cable from the positive of the battery to the "used" bolt on the solenoid. The motor should spin.

To test the motor and solenoid, connect the positive of the battery to the "unused" bolt on the solenoid. Use another wire from the positive of the battery to touch the pin in the centre of the solenoid connector. The solenoid should "click". The drive pinion should move out, and the motor should spin.

In any case, probably a long pointless post, but it was an interesting few days.
by iandvl
02 May 2017 11:06
 
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Re: My '98 GU 4.2 TD

Hey Dirk
The gas lift are super easy to install.

The Patrol had Gabriel 4297's on, which have a M6 thread on the ends.
I went for Gabriel 4141's like Michael and had them pumped to 400Nm.
The thread on the 4141's is M8, so you'll have to buy the end fittings too.

The process is take a small flat screwdriver and put it under the spring steel retainer clip and lift it up.
It will allow the ball joint to separate easily.
The ball ends on the car screw out and screw in the new ball ends for the 4141's.
Then it's just a case of clipping the new gas strut in onto the ball ends, just place them on top and give a quick press for them to clip in.

Now the bonnet opens much further than the old 4297's :thumbup:

Costs :
2X Gabriel 4141 gas lifts pumped to 400Nm - R310.65
4X End fittings for 4141 gas lifts - R140.00
Total - R 450.65 all from Midas
by Dustin
28 Apr 2017 17:02
 
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Re: My '98 GU 4.2 TD

So here's the costing of the build, not taking into account the time I spent.
The time the experts spend doing the work is where the big cost lays, but I still think they sell themselves short, because it's a LOT of work and fiddling.
All that said, when I hear the whoosh of the turbo and I get pushed into my seat when I drive my Patrol...it's so worth it ! :thumbup:

I hope this helps those reading that are wanting to put a turbo on to their donkey diesels
by Dustin
10 May 2017 23:39
 
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Re: Bushwinch...

I have a set for a Land Rover which I have used "in anger". They do work but…

You cannot drive around with them fitted to the vehicle – there is too much risk of them hitting things and damage being caused.
They are a hassle to carry around in the load bay, et cetera. You also need to carry the ropes, cables or straps (depending on the particular design).
You need specific wheel nuts to be able to use them – your normal wheel nuts do not work.
You have to place them so as to pull in a straight line – that means you have to carry large stakes (usually 1 m long pieces of angle iron) which you can hammer into the ground. To clarify, you cannot use a single anchor point for two wheels – that almost guarantees the problem that I refer to further below. You need to have the anchor point for each wheel at a point that will enable the rope (or whatever it is) to wind up straight on the drum.
You obviously also need to carry a sizeable hammer to knock the stakes into hard ground or whatever the situation is.
There is a risk of winding the cable, strap or whatever it is around the inside of the wheel (thus the axle) and causing damage (I know, I have done it) and then often you have to cut it away because it is so tightly wound, there is no other way of getting it loose...

It works and it can work well but on the whole, from my perspective, the theory is better than the practice.
by Clem
18 May 2017 15:14
 
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Re: Patrol Insurance

Another thing to check on with the older vehicles -

'98 Patrol 4.5 GL
Retail book value = R 80 000
Extras value = R 100 000
Insured value = R 180 000

Write off at 70% and here check whether it is Retail book value or Insured value.

Some are at Retail book value so R 80 000 X 70% = R 56 000 write off value, they take your vehicle and pay you out.... :thumbdown: :thumbdown: :thumbdown:
This is what Santam does as I raised this question with them. The numbers at the bottom is on my actual patrol........better than I thought :thumbup:

Santam works on retail value. They use the retail of the vehicle at the date of loss. So let's say your vehicle is worth R100,000.00 today, but in 4 months you have an accident and on that day your vehicle's resale value is R94,000.00, then the insurance will be R94,000.00.
Your Nissan's current retail value is R89,800.00, along with your extras it is R158,800.00. If your vehicle is written off, they work at the retail price of R89,800.00 and then they will pay you your extras. Remember that extras are paid according to your proof and new quotation

This is my exact point. I am talking about the level they will write off your vehicle, pay you out and they own the vehicle.

If it is based on the retail value of the vehicle get them to change it or change insurer.

If it is based on the retail value plus the value of the extras you are fine.
by David M
24 May 2017 12:44
 
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Re: Crunch sound at left front

Do you get the heavy squeek / kraakgeluid on turning the steering all the way to the stop? I had the same problem with both Sani's I owned and heard it on some other vehicles as well. In that case it was the stopper bolt rubbing on the stopper cup. I originally fixed it with a dab of grease, but eventually cured it by forcing a small piece of hosepipe over the stopper bolt, just longer than the bolt itself.
I shall look I can take a pic of the Patrol coils tomorrow.
by DanieG
27 May 2017 18:02
 
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Re: 2001 Nissan Patrol 3.0Di GRX R48,550

SPELFOUT op die PRYS ???? .. this one has been on Gumtree for some time now .. at 89,900 [swarted at 94,900 ]

look: https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkie ... 0944281609

At 48 K I would take it with glee !!!
by Kagiso II
07 Jun 2017 11:45
 
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Re: Working out diff ratios

Ek is redelik seker dat hy nog die oorspronklike diff ratios in het. Ek het ook gehoor van die speedo wat uit is en het dit maar so aanvaar. As die groen meneer 4.3 ratios in gehad het sou hy vreeslik hoog gerev het op spoed en ek het gevind hy is heel normaal. As ek reg onthou het hy hier by 2800 rpm se kant op 120 gedraai en dit is die selfde as wat die diesel doen wat ek nou het ongeveer en hy is ook veronderstel om 4.1 in te hê. Maar daar is vreeslik baie 4.5s met die 285s op en die wat ek mee gekuier het is heel gelukkig. Oom Ossewa, David M, Grahm Cummings en paar ander wat ek ongelukkig nie hul name kan onthou nie. Ek sal sê go vir dit. :blonde:
:mytwocents:
by TijmenvdS
16 Jun 2017 19:57
 
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Re: Nissan patrol 3.0TD ECU

Here is the website: http://ecutechnologies.co.za/

I see that they claim to have numerous ECU's in stock so may be worth a try. They list Patrol 3.0 on their list of models dealt with......

They also claim to be able to offer replacement ECU's?

If anyone uses these folk please post your experience so that forum members have a reference specific to Trolls.
by Rodney
11 Jul 2017 12:35
 
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Re: 4.5 GRX wanted

Daai is nou reg bande. Ek hoop julle ry lekker en geniet die trip. :thumbup:
by TijmenvdS
24 Jul 2017 22:42
 
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Re: GQ Bonnet Gas Struts

Net een tip, jou shocks is inderste bo. Daai seel waar die shaft uit kom moet in die olie wees anders gaan hulle nie lank hou nie

Nice write-up (wif picktjurs) available here .

Two things I learnt:
1. The "rod down" position ensures that the oil dampens the movement when the strut nears the end of its extension. If mounted the other way around, the struts will not benefit from this damping and may be damaged as a result.
2. Struts should preferably be mounted no more than 60 degrees off vertical to ensure that the oil remains in contact with the seal. Because our bonnets are very near to horisontal, it's important to take your Patrol out for a vigorous 4x4 session to thoroughly lubricate the seal as often as you possibly can :thumbup:
by ChristoSlang
31 Jul 2017 23:27
 
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Re: KINDO SEAT COVERS

The quoted prices I believe are forum member prices.

We should also maybe build up a bulk order so that we have buying power for future purchases???

Otherwise I recon if you mention the forum to Chantell I'm sure she will help you.

J
by hugejp
21 Aug 2017 16:06
 
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Re: Terrano II

Rudgar het na n mooi een gaan kyk sal gou hoor
by Tinus lotz
25 Aug 2017 13:22
 
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Re: Terrano II

Gumtree het n mooi wittetjie .. Vrystaat girlie wat verkoop 60 K laag kilos .. Daai rooie se klok is bikki oorvol.

AL wat ooit op daai goed pla is air flow meter ; die digitale km lesing op die 'dash' en elektriese ruite ..
Maak die AFM met "Elektrokleen" skoon
Hou die ruite se koppelings skoon
maak die kontakte in di edash skoon

en ALLES doen jy met Electrokleen"

Maak die LSD met parafien skoon, gooi NISSAN se LSD diff olie in enjy kan Baboons gaan ry met daai karretjie
Dwergie nonog die (*&^%#$ in vir my oor ek haar "shortie" verkoop het

[in my boek n beter voertuig as Toy se Prado en Mitshu se Pajero SWB ..
by Kagiso II
09 Sep 2017 22:52
 
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Re: Terrano II

Brent,

vir die intercooler gaan na Cape Heat Exchange (CHE) in die Paarl!
by SCUBA Patrol
29 Sep 2017 14:56
 
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Re: Terrano II

Dawid het n paar van hulle gebreek hoor maar by hom ook
by Tinus lotz
29 Sep 2017 15:56
 
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Re: HOBBY PARK 4x4 30 SEPTEMBER 2017

So n paar pics van die dag, ek het ongelukkig nie by al die obstacles uitgekom nie maar dit lyk na n baie lekker kuier plek ook na mens gery het.

DSC04521.jpg

DSC04535.jpg

DSC04540.jpg

DSC04553.jpg

DSC04562.jpg

DSC04582.jpg

DSC04569.jpg

DSC04597.jpg


Sal later nog meer post
by Jules
01 Oct 2017 09:01
 
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