Patrol Pics

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Re: Third Row Seats - Free to Good Home

Delivered. Nice meeting you (again) Tinus. :)

Michael / Tinus, thanks for the beer - was not necessary, but appreciated none-the-less. :)

by iandvl
26 Feb 2015 09:45
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Re: Patrol scrap yard in Sharjah, UAE.

If you see a black one of those switches on a 4.8 grx y61 i will be very happy nissan sa wants 6k for it :surprised:

Still not sure about the switches....can you post a picture of you what you mean, or a part number please. I can ask Nissan here as well for the price of a new one. I can call the scrapyard and ask if they have the item, and a picture will help them understand over whatsapp.

I assume Tinus means one such as this ? The one for the passanger seat...


Edit: In black though. Not grey :)
by iandvl
04 Mar 2015 14:10
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Re: Nissan Keys, Keycoding and Parts


I'd suggest manually locking the car with the keys. It's central locking, so all locks should lock / unlock when the vehicle is locked manually from the driver's side. If this works, it is definitely not a mechanical issue. If it does not work, I'd assume there is some technical issue with the central locking system. I would check the door switches (the switches which determine whether the door is open or not), power supply & ground to the door lock actuators or the door locak actuators themselves.

If it is possible to lock the doors centrally from the driver's side lock, there is probably not a mechanical issue. It might help to re-pair the remote with the vehicle.

Unfortunately, I don't have a Patrol manual (yet), so I'm unsure as to the procedure to follow to re-key the remote with the vehicle. It may be similar to the Hardbody, and the following details this process:

1: Get into the vehicle and close all doors.
2: Insert and remove the key into the ignition more than six times in ten seconds.
3: Put key into lock and turn to ACC position.
4: Push either button on the remote once. The hazard lights will flash twice. If you want to add an additional remotes, press the button on additional remotes now as well. The hazard lights will flash twice each time a remote is added. A maximum of four remotes can be programmed with the vehicle.
5: Open driver's door.

Not sure if that would work on the Patrol (as mentioned - no manual), so use at your own risk.

Hope it helps.


PS: Yes - also what Oom Mac says. Try using liberal amounts of electroclean on the locks and similar as well.
by iandvl
12 Mar 2015 09:37
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Re: Ironman Suspension

Upgrade done yesterday, and I gained about 60mm in terms of lift. The distance from the bottom of the rim until the bumper is now 820mm... Truck feels huge. :)

Ride is a little harder (I was expecting this) but fantastic.

A few photographs (as per Tinus request). They're not very good, as the Trol is currently in the garage.

The 'trol as she stands now.


Front coils and shocks.


Back coils and shocks.


Oh - I think I now need to get that set of Khumos... :)
by iandvl
17 Mar 2015 08:43
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Re: My Patrol Pickup thread...

If I remember correctly, you were looking for a roll-bar for the Patrol Pick-up. I see there is one advertised on the community forum - ... trol/cat/5

Hope it helps.

by iandvl
11 May 2015 08:59
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Re: 6mm Wheel Spacers


All good then. I'm happy to take the Cape-bound ones down to the dunes, but will need to get them from you before next week Wednesday when I empty the petrol stations in town and drive through. Alternatively, Tinus can take them down ? He may be a little closer. I live in Brits - aka: "ad anum extremum mundi". Just let me know.


PS: They look good. :)
by iandvl
17 Sep 2015 08:56
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Re: n kans om die noord kaap se duine te ry ....


Trip was fantastic, although it started off on a bad note. My wife was attacked by three thugs in Kuruman on the way down. I fought them off and got her into the car. Cellphone stolen, but guys were arrested by the police. All I really care about is the safety of my family, and we're all fine. In other words, it worked out OK.

We thought we were staying at Boegoebergdam (on the other side of the river). When we realised our mistake, we turned around to get to the other side, and burst a tyre on the caravan. Issues with the wheel studs on the spare (and the fact that my brother in law recently decided to put lock nuts on all wheels but never provided me with the "key") meant we were stranded next to the road for a few hours whilst we sorted the stuff out. In the end, we were under way again at 19h00, but decided to overnight at Groblershoop.

We replaced the tyre in Groblershoop on Friday morning, and got to Trans Boegoe at about 11h00. In other words, I missed the first day's drive.

On Saturday, I joined the group for the drive. Deflated to 0.5 (it's the lowest I've ever run my tyres - it looked completely wrong), and headed into the dunes. Not really sure what else I can say - point the vehicle at the dune, and gun it. I'm sure the guys who did both days can make more comments. All in all, I'm impressed with my vehicle. Whilst the 4.5 coped well, it is amazing to see how much better the 4.8's (and Tommie's 7 litre monster) performed.

I think pictures say things much better than I can explain (despite the fact that one does not get the exact impression of how steep and high some of the dunes really are). I will see if I can get the stuff downloaded, and post some pictures this evening.
by iandvl
28 Sep 2015 12:05
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Re: Ian de Villiers (iandvl)

I invested in a bunch of Peter Connan steel underwear for the 'Trol.

Finished painting them on the weekend, but have not had a chance to fit them. I did, however, take a snap of the diff protector yesterday afternoon (excuse the dirty diff).

Most of the diff-protectors I've seen fitted are yellow. I thought I'd be a little different and go for red...


Peter - thanks a stack - they are awesome...

PS: (Have I ever mentioned how much I love Hammerite - it is awesome paint).
by iandvl
06 Oct 2015 07:37
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Re: Packing List/checklist

Oh - a quick Google of "site:za camping packing list" provides the following:

AA's list:
Andre's stuff:
Drive South Africa:
And another one with links over at the Community web site.


by iandvl
08 Oct 2015 09:58
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Re: Recovery Point Bolts

Peter - thanks again.

The bolt thing worked a treat. Gathered the threads in the nuts must have been fairly gungded up (they really didn't look so).

In any case, cleared threads with the "cut bolt" above, and plenty of oil. And fitted my right-hand recovery point last night. Nice to have the job completed...

by iandvl
16 Oct 2015 09:29
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Starter Issues

I've had a bad morning. Have a doctor's appointment for a spider bite (presumably sac spider). I also have to renew both vehicle licenses today. Get all my paperwork together. Climb in the 'trol.

I turn the key to start, and all I hear is the solenoid clicking. Nothing else. Except for the laughter of cruiser drivers...

Measure voltage on battery. Fine. Get my spare battery out to jump start. Nothing. Just the click of the solenoid... (and cruiser laughter).

Next step: fuses and fusable links. All fine.

So, it is time to pull the starter. This is a horrible job on the 4.5. It's virtually impossible to get at the starter motor without stripping other things. In any case, after about 20 minutes of swearing, bruised knuckles and dirt in my eyes (the only place I could get a clear view to disconnect the cables was from underneath), I get the unit out.

In short: Very small issue. The bolt keeping the live feed from the solenoid to the starter had worked its way loose over time. Cleaned everything up with sandpaper. Tightened everything. Returned everything. All is good with the world again.

Crappy job, but glad I got it sorted. It is also my first "larger" mechanical Patrol repair job. So I'm feeling rather chuffed with myself... :woo: :woo:

What I've learnt for this (in case it helps others):

1: Remove the harness clip to the starter and the live feed to the solenoid lug from beneath the vehicle with 12 spanner.
2: Loosen the top starter bolt (14 spanner) from the top of the motor until the bolt can be hand turned.
3: Remove the top starter bolt from the bottom (I could not reach from the top).
4: Remove the bottom starter bolt (14 spanner) from the bottom whilst supporting the starter.
5: Guide starter out between chassis and suspension to get a clearer look at the bits.

Installation is a reverse of the removal.

Oh - and disconnect battery before doing anything. But I guess that can safely be assumed.
by iandvl
05 Jan 2016 11:33
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Re: Wanted: 4.5 GRX / GL

Get your old man to join this forum. The guys here will enjoy his sense of humour. Haven't seen him for a while. Please pm me his phone number.


It's a thought, and I'll get him signed up when I see him later on this week, but I'm not sure whether he'll be very active on the forum. He does not do the computer thing that much.

I'll send his cell number now.

by iandvl
21 Dec 2015 09:24
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Re: Bumpers, Nudge bars, Winch Plate, Recovery Point

Cool dont be shy with the picks hey :thumbup:


I don't have many photos at the moment, but you asked so nicely...

We had the bumpers colour coded. This is prior to installation:


And this is fitment almost done. Came out very nicely.


I will take some photographs when my bumper is fitted.
by iandvl
16 Feb 2016 08:25
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2008 3L Patrol

Spotted this in the community forum classifieds this morning. ... 2008/cat/4
by iandvl
29 Feb 2016 08:13
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Headlight Lens Replacement

Thought I''d post this here - carrying on from this thread:

I got around to replacing my headlight lens today.

First, we strip off the corner light assembly, front grill and trim bit underneath the headlight to remove the headlight assembly with the broken lens.


Next step was to remove the six metal clips supporting the lens and then soak the headlight in very hot water (not boiling, but hot) for about 15 minutes. The broken lens came out with very little effort, although one had to sit and pick little bits of glass out of the glue with tweezers. The picture shows the headlight assembly and my "new" lens.


I then cleaned the lens reflector in the headlight assembly thoroughly as well as the inside of the new lens. Note: when drying / polishing the inside of the lens as well as the lens reflector, use paper (such as a paper kitchen towels) and not cloth. And then I let the light assembly dry out completely (there are "draining" holes in the headlight assembly, but I wanted it nice and dry). Thereafter, I used the wife's hair dryer (*never* *ever* *ever* mention this to her please) to re-heat the glue inside the headlight assembly until it was nice and tacky. I then pushed the lens back in, sealed the outside with a bit of silicon and reclipped the six retaining clips.


And finally, I put everything back together again.


It seems to work, but I've got no idea how well-stuck the new lens is. It seems to be very well stuck, but I've got no idea whether the lens is just going to fall out when driving rough roads or similar. I don't think it will, but I guess I will only know when I do so....

It's a bit of a painstaking job, and quite messy (that glue is terribly sticky). However, it is quite straightforward. Hope it helps someone.
by iandvl
13 Mar 2016 08:55
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Re: Headlight Lens Replacement

Just an update:

On the way back from Pretoria yesterday, I took the dirt roads from outside Kameeldrif to 10-rooms outside Harties. And then again from Harties again to Brits. After all the rain, the roads are in terrible shape. Potholes, corrugations, mud pools etc. The lens has not fallen out yet, so I guess it has set nicely.

In addition to this, I've decided to build some head-light protectors with some left-over 3mm perspex I have around from another project. The first set will take a while to make, but I'll build a mould for additional sets from the first one. After that, it should be relatively quick.

I'll start a new thread on that and post details on the process as I get around to it. But I guess I'll only start with this on the Easter weekend when I have a nice chunk of time available.
by iandvl
15 Mar 2016 08:45
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Re: "small" Brad Harrison???????????

I'm only aware of 4x4 direct for the mini Brad Harrisons. If you're after the deutsche plugs, Diesel Electric stock them. There is a branch in Pretoria: 320 Church Street. Tel: 0123274810
by iandvl
08 Apr 2016 09:22
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Re: Herrie, Patrol Manuals

SJC wrote:Dit sal gaaf wees. Baie dankie. :thumbup:

Sal vanaand oplaai, maar sal rukkie vat om optelaai. Sal download link PM as als op is.
by iandvl
12 Apr 2016 14:21
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Re: Patrol Spotting

Het vir Tinus gespot op die R511 vanoggend - ek op pad Midrand toe, hy oppad terug Pretoria se kant toe. In die pickup... :layrubber: :layrubber: Amper te laat gesien, maar dankie vir die bel in elk geval.
by iandvl
05 May 2016 09:11
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Re: Trim Beading

Ian - Did Pro Auto Rubber have the clips?


No - Pro Auto did not have the clips. I got the clips at a automotive paint place near Pro Auto Rubber.

I cannot remember the name of the place. Will post it as well as part numbers and prices as soon as I get a chance to review the slips. I brought them with me for this purpose, but forgot them in the car... :(

I'll post part number / description of the trim from Pro Auto, as well as the name of the paint place and clips during the course of the day.
by iandvl
30 Jun 2016 08:42
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Re: Trim Beading

Ian, Will that beading hold itself in place ??


No. The Patrol beading also does not hold itself in place. It has a small amount of glue between the trim panel and the bead (you can see evidence of this on the photo of the Patrol beading.

As such, I'll be (lightly) gluing the bead to the trim with clear silicon. And then we'll see. It cannot be worse than my beading currently - I keep on having to push it back...

In any case, I'm happy to be the guniea pig. I'll replace the beading now. And then I've got my Lesotho trip at end of July, and the river trip beginning August. If the beading holds out through those two, I guess we can say it will work...
by iandvl
30 Jun 2016 10:35
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Re: Trim Beading

Right. Part numbers and similar.

Beading Trim, I purchased from Pro Auto Rubber in Pretoria. 328 Rebecca Street, Pretoria. 0123272757.

Part number: PR178.
Description: TRIMMING EDGE.
Cost: R16.93 per metre.

The pro auto beading (right) has a slightly different profile to the standard Patrol beading (left), but I think it will work.


Trim clips, I purchased from PBS Paints. Corner Charlotte Maxeke & Ketjen street, Pretoria. 0123277022

Male clip (left)
Part number: 832.
Cost: R5.02 per clip.

I also bought a few female clips (ie: the bit that sits in the door). But I bought considerably less because mine all seem to be good, and they're considerably more expensive.

Female clip (right)
Part number: 839
Cost: R19.74 per clip.


Finally, Stefan, I see Pro Auto Rubber also has a branch in the fairest Cape:

Spearhead Business Park,
Cnr Montague Dr & Freedom Way,
Montague Gardens
Tel: (021) 552-9894/16
Fax: (021) 551-9808

I can collect for you here in Pretoria, or you can probably just collect from there. :)

I'll post photographs once I've put the new beading on, and we can see whether it is worth the effort or not.
by iandvl
30 Jun 2016 10:17
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Re: Trim Beading

Right - my final post on this matter. Just a few of the "gotchas" I picked up during this process.

1: The plastic trim bits make use of two different types of male pins. White pastic ones, and black plastic ones. The black pins are used in all the circular female clips (one per piece of trim). The white pins are used elsewhere.


2: The trim bits use three different types of female clips. There are oval shaped ones, a single circular clip per trim piece, and a weird, 45-degree angled bit for each of the trim pieces which sit on the door. The circular and oval ones are easy to get. I've not tracked down the 45-degree angled ones yet, so when removing the trim from the back doors be very careful not to break / lose them.


3: Every piece of trim has a single circular female clip with a black pin which fits into this. I think this is more-or-less a "key" mounting point. I discovered that the trim generally comes off easier if this pin is removed first, as it is easier to shift the trim around a little once it is out (the rest of the pins are all in the oval clips, which allow a little more movement). When refitting the panel again, it is easier to clip in all the white pins first, and clip in the black pin last, for the same reason. I've highlighted their locations below. You will notice the patch of rust on my fender - I'll explain about this later.


4: The trim on the door has a screw which first needs to be removed from the inside of the door. There is a plastic cover stuck under the opening. Remove it, and simply remove the bolt.


5: My vehicle is old. The trim is relatively brittle. So be very careful when removing it. I broke a couple of clips on the inside of the trim when removing stuff. The stuff breaks off relatively cleanly, and it is easy to fix, so I'd suggest having some decent epoxy around in case this does happen.

6: As David mentioned, he found that silicon did not work particularly well (presumably because of the long curing time). I found that it worked fine - provided one gave it enough time to cure steadily. I used "mamma se haar-rekkies en wasgoed pennetjies". Basically, I removed the trim in the morning and cleaned everything up. After that, I stuck the new beading to the trim, and left it for the rest of the day to cure nicely. The afternoon, I put everything back again.

7: The rust... My vehicle has done quite a bit. Whilst I look after it very well, it does it's fair share of trails, dirty roads and similar. It gets cleaned regularly though. The thing that scared me was the amount of mud which had built up inside the wheel arch over time - there behind the piece of plastic which keeps it sealed. No idea how it gets in, but this would probably be how the rust inside the plastic trim on the front fenders started. It's something I need to address. I've oiled it and similar, but this is beyond my painting skills, and I'll need to take it somewhere to be fixed properly. I could have planted potatoes inside my wheel arches... :(


Anyways, that is that. Ultimately, it's not a difficult job, but don't be in a rush to do it.

Clip count per arch:

Rear fender trim
Black male clips: 1
White male clips: 5
Oval female clips: 5
Circular female clips: 1

Rear door trim
Black male clips: 1
White male clips: 2
Oval female clips: 1
Circular female clips: 1
45-degree female clips: 1

Front door trim
Black male clips: 1
White male clips: 6
Oval female clips: 6
Circular female clips: 1

I bought 12M of trim, and I guess I have about 2.5M left. So work on a reasonably amount of trim...

Hope this helps someone
by iandvl
05 Jul 2016 08:33
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Re: 2K1 - Headlight Protectors


Thanks for the information.

I'm aware of the limitations of the perspex, but my thoughts are that if I can get the "moulds" built properly, churning out replacement perspex covers will be relatively easy (and definitely a lot cheaper than replacing a headlight lens). So, as far as I'm concerned, the perspex can shatter as long as the lens stays intact.

I'll see at some point whether I can get hold of the polycarbonite. Not sure whether the tools and such I have are going to allow me to work it properly. But we'll see when we get there. :)

Cedric, this is on hold for a little, but should be able to get back to this right after the river trip. Got a lot to do work-wise and similar in order to clear decks for my trip to Lesotho and the river trip.

Also, the mild prang I had a week ago has also eaten into my available time (I spend last weekend replacing beading, spraying bumpers and similar).

The original experiment I posted pictures of earlier had one or two flaws.

For example: I bent the 90 degree bits which go under the headlights before finishing the curvature of the lens. Which means that it is now very difficult to continue bending the curvature to fit correctly. In other words: back to the drawing board.

I've actually been doing what Dustin suggested - in terms of creating a positive mould for the headlights so that I could just drape hot perspex over the mould, and shape it properly. This I've done (partially) for the right-hand light (I had a few bits and pieces left over of my father's corner light and similar following his fiasco at Groenkloof earlier the year). So, will post updates when I get a chance to continue with this.

The nice part about it, is that if I get the moulds built, things become easier - especially if I decide to experiment with the ploycarb described by Dustin. :)
by iandvl
07 Jul 2016 09:29
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