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Re: Unbreakable Patrol keeps breaking

David, download the manual anyway.

It is very very much more informative than any of the books on the market...
by Peter Connan
10 Jan 2014 17:06
 
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Re: Manifold Wrap

I will get the no tomorrow and post
by Tinus lotz
06 Feb 2014 20:32
 
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Hello Gorgeous Part II (overlanding my car)

ASPW’s dream of developing the ultimate two-person overlanding machine, resulted in the cruiser that can be seen on his video log below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riMTgFHr7GY
The aim was to have a vehicle that requires only 5 minutes to set up camp.

I am not that ambitious. 30 minutes to set up camp woudl be fine for me. Firstly I do not have his budget. I also have a family of five to fit in rather than just two. And unlike ASPW, I am not prepared to cut off my roof for a more convenient easily accessible roof top tent. The Cruiser 70s are not good rollers as it is. Their frame tends to crumble. Now he has, in my view, compromised the vehicle’s structural integrity further. So enough of that. Back to my troll.

Like everyone else overlanding, I want to see how far I can go using the space available on my car, without needing to save up for a trailer. A drawer system, if sufficient, is a much much cheaper route than the offroad trailer. And, I want the system to be relatively easy to disassemble, to put my 6th and 7th seat back in again. And, finally, for added convenience, I wanted a shower.

The result is below. My fridge is only 50 litres. But the fridge draw is such that it can take bigger models, in case I want to upgrade later on. There are four ammo boxes below the fridge. I can take four more above (not on draws and tied down). Alternatively one can use this space for any other stuff, bags, etc.

The water tank is 50 litres, with a pump strong enough to take the water to above head level. And then the barrier between the packing space and the passengers is important in the event of an accident.

I had my Patrol 60th anniversary wheel cover enlarged. Now it can cover a 35” wheel (just in case). It is also now sporting an internal bag for the braai stuff.

To do: I still have a normal RTT (not shown here), and a pop-up tent for the ground. This is perfectly fine, but my preference would still be to have my whole family on the roof. From another recent thread, we know this is doable. But I do want to use the entire roof for this. So this is still a project that requires further thinking/planning.

Also, since we have three children, I would like to convert the central seat belt to a three point seat belt, for safety. This proves to be more tricky than initially anticipated. The system would have to be mounted to the drawer system, as the roof and the seat does not have the required strength for the mounting of the seatbelt. If anyone has done this before, please let me know.

AmmoboxDrawnOut.JPG

FridgeDrawnOut.JPG

WaterTank50L.JPG

InsiderRearInterior.JPG

CampingTablePullout.JPG

WheelCoverMod.JPG

WheelCoverStorage.JPG

ShowerframebeforeExtended.JPG

ShowerFrameAfterExtended.JPG

ShowerSetup.JPG

InsideShower.jpg
by Alex Roux
13 Feb 2014 08:27
 
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Re: Deep Cycle Battery Safety

I have never heard of any problems, I have been running around Africa for 25 year with main batteries and aux batteries under the passenger seat in my landies and more recently behind the rear seats in the patrol and have never experienced any fumes ect. Cheers Ian
by IanT
18 Feb 2014 18:16
 
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Re: Deep Cycle Battery Safety

Several cars have had their batteries installed in the passenger compartment over the years.

None of the ones i can think of have a particulalrly good record of safety though, although that's probably co-incedental... :biggrin:
by Peter Connan
18 Feb 2014 19:19
 
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Re: Deep Cycle Battery Safety

dude we have discussed batteries on this and other forms a lot but let me give you my 2 cents
deep cycle batteries are not the correct choice for what u want to do for the following reasons
1 it has limited amount of charge cycles available what this means is when u start your car and switch it off one charge cycle is gone and there are only 300 available
2 the ideal charge voltage for a deep cycle battery is 14.8 v your car alternator doesn't make that
3 if you do get an alternator to do that you are gonna lose your crank battery very soon because they don't want much more than 13,8 v otherwise the plates bend
4 when charging a deep cycle battery at ideal voltages you only get 20% of batt capacity back in there per hour or think about it like this at 13.8v it will load at about 10A per hour minus loses (your fridge normally runs at about 5A ave )
5 the better battery to go for is lead crystal can be stored empty for up to 2 years and will show no effect, deep cycles will break if you don't maintain them
6 if you give john strubel a call, he is the marketing guru or bigshot at deltec sa he will give you the same info and a very good price on the correct thing I found out for Peter c a while ago and it was about R2 k a battery of 90a but need to check again
7 if you insist on sticking with deep cycle batteries just get a c-tek system they jack up the charge voltage to suit the needs of a deep cycle .
8 if you want to stick to basic solenoid system get hi cycle batteries and make sure you don't drain them below 10.5 v otherwise they break too
9 to get back to your problem ......the deep cycle and hi cycle batteries are sealed so no fumes they have a breather but not to worry about only to let pressure in or out not open to atmosphere
10 lead crystal has no breather no vent only gel inside can lay on side or up side down no problem
hope it helps :thumbup: :thumbup:
by Tinus lotz
18 Feb 2014 21:34
 
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Re: Driving - & Spotlights

David,
I got the led replacement lights from a fleamarket type shop opposite Kollonade Centre in Montana.They fit perfectly into the reflector where the halogen globes fit and even has a compatible plug. The exact focus point and lens compatability might be an issue. The dodgy source is a concern and I doubt there will be any guarantee. Mine seem to last and has been in use for over a year now.

The Light Force spots are available at most offroad fitment shops and the range is big. The hid ones are very expensive. I paid under R6k for the halogens but the reflectors are very big and that makes a huge difference. They come from Australia and have interchangeable covers that come in different colours to tint the light for fog or dust ect. They also weigh next to nothing .
by bogeyman
21 Apr 2016 17:04
 
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Re: Trim Beading


Ian - Did Pro Auto Rubber have the clips?

David,

No - Pro Auto did not have the clips. I got the clips at a automotive paint place near Pro Auto Rubber.

I cannot remember the name of the place. Will post it as well as part numbers and prices as soon as I get a chance to review the slips. I brought them with me for this purpose, but forgot them in the car... :(

I'll post part number / description of the trim from Pro Auto, as well as the name of the paint place and clips during the course of the day.
by iandvl
30 Jun 2016 08:42
 
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Re: Trim Beading

Right. Part numbers and similar.

Beading Trim, I purchased from Pro Auto Rubber in Pretoria. 328 Rebecca Street, Pretoria. 0123272757.

Part number: PR178.
Description: TRIMMING EDGE.
Cost: R16.93 per metre.

The pro auto beading (right) has a slightly different profile to the standard Patrol beading (left), but I think it will work.

beading.jpg

Trim clips, I purchased from PBS Paints. Corner Charlotte Maxeke & Ketjen street, Pretoria. 0123277022

Male clip (left)
Part number: 832.
Description: CLIPS-NISSAN WHEEL ARCH CLIP.
Cost: R5.02 per clip.

I also bought a few female clips (ie: the bit that sits in the door). But I bought considerably less because mine all seem to be good, and they're considerably more expensive.

Female clip (right)
Part number: 839
Description: CLIPS-NISSAN WHEEL ARCH CLIP.
Cost: R19.74 per clip.

clips.jpg

Finally, Stefan, I see Pro Auto Rubber also has a branch in the fairest Cape:

Spearhead Business Park,
Cnr Montague Dr & Freedom Way,
Montague Gardens
Tel: (021) 552-9894/16
Fax: (021) 551-9808
e-mail: wayne@proautorubber.co.za

I can collect for you here in Pretoria, or you can probably just collect from there. :)

I'll post photographs once I've put the new beading on, and we can see whether it is worth the effort or not.
by iandvl
30 Jun 2016 10:17
 
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Re: Towbar

Dudes.....i was working on my rear bumper ...sorry it does fit we used one to modify johannes van die see se towbar that just comes from recovery point but only rated 500kg ....you might have to extend where the ball comes on but the rest is the same :mytwocents:
by Tinus lotz
23 Jul 2016 14:41
 
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Re: Y61 GU adjustable drag link wanted

I had the same quality concerns using pirate tie rod ends.
What I did was purchase an original Nissan tie rod complete with tie Rod ends and had the rod shortened and a new thread mavhined to match thr drag link length. The damper mounting bracket cannot be welded to the new rod as it is now adjustable so I had a swivel mounting bracket made. Thr Rod was knurled in the correct position and the mounting assembly is then located after steering adjustments in the correct position by four grub screws.....hope I have explained this correctly!! Total cost was less than 3k
Will attach a few photos.
by Daniel
27 Jul 2016 07:54
 
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Re: Tyre prices

Hi David

There is a certain standard in the OEM automotive industry in a sense that Prices are adjusted to the rate of exchange on quarterly basis. How far this filters down to the dealers is anyone's guess. They might still have a certain stock level which they might want to sell at last quarters price.
As a guideline one should see a price adjustment on a quarterly basis. :mytwocents:
by Picasso
18 Aug 2016 08:47
 
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Re: Tyre prices

Mini Patrol wrote:
Wilkie wrote:Yipp I got General Grabbers and they cost around R1800.00 a tyre,,i'm really impressed with the traction and no tyre noise on tar road


Errol - MT's or AT's?


A/T
by Wilkie
19 Aug 2016 06:40
 
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Front anti-sway bar QD's

I have on a number of occassions stated that i believe that removing the sway bars makes no difference to the rollover angle or actual safety of a Patrol unless it is lifted or running heavy loads topsides.

However, there is no doubt that less body roll contributes to a feeling of safety.

I have thus designed a quick-disconnect setup for the front anti-sway bar (i think this limits flex and has more effect than the rear). it will fit Y60 and Y61 models with coil spring front suspensions (thus not the Y60 pickup).

It consists of new chassis brackets and new connecting links (including fhe ball joints).

Cost is R2500.00 and the prototypes can be seen on Alex Roux's car.

IMG-20161105-WA0006.jpg

IMG-20161105-WA0007.jpg
by Peter Connan
07 Nov 2016 08:33
 
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Re: Front anti-sway bar QD's

Put me down for a set. Have always been too scared to permanently disconnect especially as I tow a boat and/or with roofrack on.

3 questions;

1. Do you have a set available that I can fit before the weekend?
2. It is obvious as to how it disconnects at the top but how does it disconnect at the bottom or do you just cable tie it up.
3. Are you going to be making them up for the rear of the Y61 at a later stage? I don't think the Y60 has a swaybar at the back.


Hi David

You will notice that there is a re-usable cable tie in the picture above, that I will intend to use when disconnecting at the top.
I have a 2" susp lift and 2" body lift, plus a steel roof rack.
This caused considerable body roll, which I just did not like. As okay as Peter said it should be.
Putting this on made a helluva difference in my car's handling.

With regard to the rear:
I do not have the rear back on at the moment.
I snapped it off some years back at Berakka. I did not notice the handling impact at the time though.
So the experience of body roll around a corner is definitely a lot less or unoticable for the rear stabiliser.
I am still waiting for a new old one from Dawid. For that I intend to only get the connecting rods extended to accommodate the lift, rather than the disconnecting functionality.
by Alex Roux
07 Nov 2016 11:09
 
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Re: Drawer System. Ideas.

So after discovering Sketch-Up my plans have surged ahead. Construction is 19mm aluminium square tube and "connect its", aluminium sheet, 10cm hard board/ ply, and aluminium "angle iron"

It is a modular unit that can just be the bottom two drawers. The bottom drawer can open through the small barn door. Or two bottom and a big upper drawer. The hinge lid is there so you can get at stuff from inside the car. As my recovery gear will be in the drawer... I have a habit of getting myself in to a situation I cannot open the rear door (don't ask!!). Not being able to get to recovery gear would be a disaster!! Hence the hinged lid on the drawer. The lid gets removed when you put on the top drawer system and the top drawer gets the lid.

I wanted to maximize space so kept tolerances tight. You will see that the concept is that the rails for the drawers are directly on the base. So the sides are not supporting the drawer. That also means the rails are low and can be accommodated into a recess in the base of the drawer. I noted some drawer systems will, due to design, have up to 4cm gap between the two drawers to accomodate the 19mm square tube and the rails. P.S. Not pictured are the hardboard sides that sits between the aluminium square tube to add torsional rigidity.

I am debating whether to connect the drawers directly to the slides. Or have them sit in a cradle so the drawers can be lifted out. I would imagine that being able to remove the drawer will make life easier in a number of occasions.

The top drawer system will fit onto the "connect it" sticking up from the bottom drawer system. I will pin it down somehow and have a cable tied down to the base. The hinged lid will also fit onto the connect it that sticks up so the top drawer will also have a hinge lid.

Anyway this is a first pass and I have almost a month to think about it before i start construction.

Water and dual battery will go behind the rear seats. Upper and lower drawers will sit next to the fridge and be the same height.
by biggles
20 Jan 2017 08:57
 
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