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Re: Battery for 4.5 GRX

I have this battery - probably about the biggest that fits into the space - 2,5 years and going strong.
Make some proper heavy duty terminal connectors for yourself as well...
by Chris Skinner
11 Apr 2013 14:43
 
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Re: Auto and Cruise Control and towing.

Hi Jacques - I have experienced same problem with the speed control - the way the control system is set up is not ideal.
The system is designed to react when the speed can not be maintained in the current gear - problem is that it reacts too late and then has to drop a gear or two and apply full power to get back to the selected speed, but when it gets there, it is accelerating so fast that it overshoots the mark and decreases power too much so the speed then drops again and the cycle repeats itself - someone described it as a sling shot effect. I am not sure if anything can be done about programming the computer with a more responsive control algorith.
Being in manual mode will definatelys help but the problem with the Patrol is that you can not select speedcruise while in manual. There is a very simple mod which can be done to overcome this - I did this and now its easy, if in auto and speedcontrol mode, and i see a hill where the speed will drop, all i do is tap the gear lever over to manual and back to 4th before the speed starts dropping and then climb the hill in 4th.
Generally I do not tow in speedcruise mode as my boat is extremely heavy and one has better control with the foot on the accelerator.
When towing i leave the setting in manual 4th - i have learned my lesson of towing in 5th! :wink:
by Chris Skinner
13 May 2013 10:46
 
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Re: Dashboard Re-Covered and Tail Lights Done!

Hi Andries - absolutely no problems - looks as good as it did when they did the job. :thumbup:
by Chris Skinner
30 May 2013 20:24
 
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How to Post Low Resolution Pictures!!

Heres a tip guys - large format pictures are really a nuisance on the forum, and besides taking forever to download its also expensive if you have a limited data package.
If you wantto download smaller size (less data) pictures then do the following (this is the way I do it and its very simple):
1. Select the pictures you want to post in the internet, then right click the mouse,
2. on the window that pops up click 'send to'
3. then click 'mail recipient'
4. a window will pop up and ask you what resolution you want - select 'medium', then click attach.
5. a email create page will pop up with the new format low resolution pictures you selcted as an attachment.
6. Copy the pictures from the mail and place in appropriate folder for placing on the forum as per usual process.
:woo: :woo: :woo:
by Chris Skinner
02 Jul 2013 16:33
 
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Re: SANDWANI 06 July 2013

A lekker morning at Sandwani - it was good to play again!
Thanks fro organising it Jorrie. :woo:
by Chris Skinner
06 Jul 2013 15:44
 
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Re: Best Drawer System

I believe the weight of a drawer system needs to be considered, and the well known brands are nice but weigh far too heavy to justify their place in the back of my car. I saw an Aussie forum post where a guy said... why put in a drawer system that weights more than double the weight of the equipment you can fit into it. When overlanding one must weigh up the convenience of an all singing and dancing draw system vs the cost and the precious weight penalty one makes.
A couple weeks back, pretty much on the spur of the moment, I bought a Front Runner draw system. I took it home and then realised immediately it was not suitable due to barn style doors at the back and it weighed so much I could not manage it on my own. Fortunately they were prepared to refund me, and I did buy a roof rack too!

See this link to an Aussie forum where the guy designed and bult own system - some good info and ideas here....

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gu-gr-10/new-gu-rear-drawer-build-plans-pics-78852/

:mytwocents: :mytwocents: :mytwocents:
by Chris Skinner
21 Aug 2013 15:32
 
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Electric Windows - Operate with IGN off

One thing I find irritating is that when I turn the engine off, I then can not close the windows without going back to IGN position, and this kicks in all the electrics unnecessarily. I have been thinking of ways to modify the system so that I can operate to windows with the key in the ACC2 position, but not in the completely off position (for obvious safety and security reasons).
After wasting time digging in behind the door panel and the switch unit, which is an intricate printed circuit, I had to use the grey matter once again. :think:
I did not want to dig into the wiring too much, let alone cut wires etc.
During my fiddling about I noticed that the mirror adjustment switch works with the key in ACC2 position – so I knew where to get power from. :oldtimer:
The fuse box seemed like the obvious place to start. I located the window fuse (position #8), and the mirror operation fuse in position #23. All I needed to block the power from the live part of fuse #8, and bring in power from fuse #23. I used a ‘blown’ fuse in #8 position and took power from the downstream side of fuse #23 (so the windows are protected by the 7.5 amp mirror fuse), and into the downstream side of the #23 fuse.
The piggy-back is achieved by some ‘elegant’ soldering onto the back of the fuses, and insulating again using a glue-gun.
The piggy-back looks a bit agricultural, but it works 100%. The beauty is that the modification is fully reversible in 10 seconds by changing back to 2 new fuses in #8 and #23. :clap:
by Chris Skinner
07 Aug 2011 15:31
 
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Lead Crystal Battery - Very Impressive

After researching long and hard I bought myself a 100AH Lead Crystal Battery - actually wanted a 120AH but got this one at a real bargain price. What I have read on the internet and seen actual trials on YouTube seems almost too good to be true, so when I got the battery home I put it to the test. I made sure it was fully charged then I connected it to a 60 watt globe to see how long it would take to get to a state of 11volts under the said load of 5amps.
The result is astounding, see the graph below. A normal lead acid will not achieve this, and if you did push it for the same duration you would do permanent damage to the battery. The beauty of LeadCrystal is that it can be taken to a completely 'flat' state and recharged without any damage - it can cycle like this hundreds of times according to its specs.
Back to the graph - this shows that the battery pumped out over 100AH over the 25 hours, where you can only get around 60-70% of the AH out of a lead acid, and maybe 80% from a deepcycle without risking damage.
Speaks for itself in my view - the LC is more expensive but will last you 5 times the life with far better performance - output, quicker recharge etc....
Do yourself a favour and research this ... you wont buy another battery!
by Chris Skinner
11 Sep 2013 20:42
 
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Re: Interesting comparison: Amarok vs Patrol ownership

Thats pretty impressive :woo:

Enjoy the trip Tinus - nothing better than a long trip in a newly bought vehicle!
by Chris Skinner
23 Sep 2013 22:53
 
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Re: Headlight Booster Harness

Tinus - thanks for the prompt about OHM's law - its all about voltage drop at the actual point where wires connect to the globes. I am no expert but "Google is your friend" .... !

I suggest when engine running and lights on bright, measure your voltage at the battery, and also at the point where wires connect to the bulbs - if there is a voltage drop (more than about 0,2v = about 5% loss in light efficiency) then you are losing energy in the wires - then you should upgrade the wires and possibly the relay.

Found an article on the web, heres a short extract:

In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential with the power 3.4. For example, let's consider a 9006 low beam bulb rated 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and plug in different voltages:

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens


The Europeans take a slightly more realistic with their voltage ratings; they consider output at 13.2v to be "100%". The loss curve is the same, though. When operating voltage drops to 95 percent (12.54v), headlamp bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. When voltage drops to 90 percent (11.88v), bulb output is only 67 percent of what it should be. And when voltage drops to 85 percent (11.22v), bulb output is a paltry 53 percent of normal! It is much more common than you might think for factory headlamp wiring/switch setups to produce this kind of voltage drop, especially once they're no longer brand new and the connections have accumulated some corrosion and dirt.

Its a very interesting article - for a better understanding read it here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
by Chris Skinner
06 Oct 2013 22:39
 
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Re: New Battery

Alex, I have done quite a lot of research on this, and for a second battery set-up I have gone with a lead-crystal - as Tinus suggests. Tests I have done have showed that this is a superior battery and far better than other deepcycle batts. Only problem is price - probably 50% more than other deepcycles. But ultimately the extra cycles and life you should get will be double any other battery in my view - see this on youtube :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B74IvpUlQ0Y
There are a couple of videos - guy who made these did exhastive test on lead acid and lead crystal, and the results are impressive.
by Chris Skinner
22 Oct 2013 20:16
 
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Re: Hi Patrol fanatics.

Welcome to the family!
by Chris Skinner
14 Nov 2013 11:08
 
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Re: New member

Welcome! :salute:

Fancy that, same car same birthday!!!
by Chris Skinner
13 Nov 2013 17:48
 
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Re: Newbie

Welcome to the Forum - you will find many like-minded friends on the site!
by Chris Skinner
13 Jan 2014 08:36
 
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Re: Ceiling Insulation on Intake Assy???

Gavin, 'om the meet is om te weet' - you can do one of two things to try determine if you are really losing power.
Go have a dyno done, or find a mate with similar model Patrol and do some one on one comparisons on acceleration etc.
As an engineer, I was taught you need to know for sure before you start trying to fix things.

Some Engineering Wisdoms! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Engineering is done with numbers. Analysis without numbers is only an opinion.
To design a system right takes an infinite amount of effort. This is why it's a good idea to design them to operate when some things are wrong.
Design is an iterative process. The necessary number of iterations is one more than the number you have currently done. This is true at any point in time.
Your best design efforts will inevitably wind up being useless in the final design. Learn to live with the disappointment.
Three points determine a curve.
Everything is linear if plotted log-log with a fat magic marker.
At the start of any design effort, the person who most wants to be team leader is least likely to be capable of it.
In nature, the optimum is almost always in the middle somewhere. Distrust assertions that the optimum is at an extreme point.
Not having all the information you need is never a satisfactory excuse for not starting the analysis.
When in doubt, estimate. In an emergency, guess. But be sure to go back and clean up the mess when the real numbers come along.
Sometimes, the fastest way to get to the end is to throw everything out and start over.
There is never a single right solution. There are always multiple wrong ones, though.
Design is based on requirements. There's no justification for designing something one bit "better" than the requirements dictate.
(Edison's Law) "Better" is the enemy of "good".
(Shea's Law) The ability to improve a design occurs primarily at the interfaces. This is also the prime location for screwing it up.
The previous people who did a similar analysis did not have a direct pipeline to the wisdom of the ages. There is therefore no reason to believe their analysis over yours. There is especially no reason to present their analysis as yours.
The fact that an analysis appears in print has no relationship to the likelihood of its being correct.
Past experience is excellent for providing a reality check. Too much reality can doom an otherwise worthwhile design, though.
The odds are greatly against you being immensely smarter than everyone else in the field. If your analysis says your terminal velocity is twice the speed of light, you may have invented warp drive, but the chances are a lot better that you've screwed up.
A bad design with a good presentation is doomed eventually. A good design with a bad presentation is doomed immediately.
(Larrabee's Law) Half of everything you hear in a classroom is crap. Education is figuring out which half is which.
When in doubt, document. (Documentation requirements will reach a maximum shortly after the termination of a program.)
The schedule you develop will seem like a complete work of fiction up until the time your customer fires you for not meeting it.
It's called a "Work Breakdown Structure" because the Work remaining will grow until you have a Breakdown, unless you enforce some Structure on it.
Following a testing failure, it's always possible to refine the analysis to show that you really had negative margins all along.
Schedules only move in one direction.
To get an accurate estimate of final program requirements, multiply the initial time estimates by pi, and slide the decimal point on the cost estimates one place to the right.
If you want to have a maximum effect on the design of a new engineering system, learn to draw. Engineers always wind up designing the vehicle to look like the initial artist's concept.
You can't get to the moon by climbing successively taller trees.
When the hardware is working perfectly, the really important visitors don't show up.
Space is a completely unforgiving environment. If you screw up the engineering, somebody dies (and there's no partial credit because most of the analysis was right...).
If there’s a 50% chance of failure then 9 times out of 10 it will fail.
Remember Engineering is the art of modelling materials we do not fully understand into shapes we cannot accurately predict so as to withstand forces we cannot properly assess in such a way that the public has no reason to suspect the extent of our ignorance.

Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.
by Chris Skinner
22 Feb 2014 16:29
 
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The Perfect Dual Battery Solution?

I have now built up what I think is pretty much the perfect dual battery system and winch setup.
Some of my requirements were that I wanted to be able to start the vehicle and run my winch from the second battery (or at least support the main battery when winching), thus I used 50sqmm cable from front to rear. I also wanted to be able to see status of the battery (voltage) without having to connect a volt-meter. I also can see voltage of the main battery at any time, as the TPMS system also has a voltage readout.

For the second battery my ideal solution was a 100ah lead crystal Deltek battery placed inside a National Luna plastic battery (fits perfectly).

I have placed an in line high amp fuse which I bought on ebay - this very neat unit also has a digital voltage readout which I connected via a small switch, so that the voltage read out does not work continuously and drain the battery when I leave the system on the shelf for long periods. At any time I can just flick the switch and see the volts.
I have selected to have a Ctek D250 DC-DC charger that can take input from the alternator or a solar panel, and can charge at 15amps. I have also decided to use a Ctek 25000 (25amp) AC-DC charger for when I have the opportunity to do a quick charge via mains electricity. I can connect these chargers to charge both batteries simultaneously or individually.
I can isolate the two batteries either at the rear battery or the main battery by means of a suitable large Brad Harrison connector.
I laid the cables under the vehicle along the chassis longitudinal strut and drilled two holes on the floor to pass the cables through to the cab at the back. I used two suitable grommets to seal the area where the cables pass through the bodywork.
As I bought all the main components onteh internet (amazon and ebay) The whole set-up cost a fraction of what it wouldbeauty of this whole set-up

The only thing still to do is decide what, and how many plug points to fit on the battery box for the various accessories like fridge, etc. Maybe someone can advise??

I also made some very heavy duty battery terminal attachments for connecting the winch and the thick 50mm cables that run to the back. I also upgraded all the winch cables to 75mm – this has made a massive difference in my winching power – in my view one of the main reasons why winch does not perform adequately is due to voltage drop over the cables which result in loss of power and even burnt out motors. I also fitted a wireless winch control and new generation winch winch solenoid box (1/5th size of old Warn box).

I also replaced the warn M8000 motor with the 6hp motor that fits on the 9500 winch, effectively making my winch a 13000lb winch due to the gearing – the end result is awesome difference – with 2 batteries connected and more powerful motor on the winch so I no longer need to hassle with the snatch-block when winching the boat..

As I bought all the main components described above on the internet (amazon and ebay), the whole set-up cost a fraction (1/3) of what it would have cost if trying to source locally in ZA - I am very fortunate that I also do not have the high shipping costs as I collect directly in the USA either via colleagues or myself travelling.
by Chris Skinner
16 Mar 2014 15:08
 
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Re: 1980 Datsun Safari Station Wagon

It cant be real if we dont see pictures!
by Chris Skinner
25 Apr 2014 13:59
 
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Re: Auto Gearbox Cooling

I dont want to hi-jack the thread, but you may find this interesting.
I tow a 3ton boat&trailer (plus full load = add another approx 600-800kg fuel and provisions etc) to ponta do ouro and back a couple of times year, and I dont think there are many examples of heavier work for the auto-gearbox. The vehicle really has to work over the hot sandy dunes once past the border. Although I never seen the engine temp gauge rise more than a needle width, I was worried about the temp in the gbox, as high temp and auto bxes are not complimentary to long life. So, I set up a temp measuring instrument directly at the gbox and have real time temps at my dash. I have been monitoring my gearbox temps for approx two years now. My intention was to never let the box get to 100degC, so in order to cater for a little instrument error, I actually will not let the gauge read over 90deg to be safe (not my intention to one day fork out for a new gbox as I believe they are fairly expensive).
What I have found is that normal operating temp (not towing) is between 70-75deg. When I tow with some reasonabe caution (90-100kmph) the box gets to between80-85deg, but if I drive hard, ie kicking down to lower gears and high revs, it starts to climb to 90 and would possibly go well above if I let it.
On the sand dunes I have to drive hard in some places over the approx 15km stretch to Ponta, but I have never seen the temp above 90deg - to me this means that the additional cooling system, ie front radiator, really does its job (some earlier posts on this thread talk about isolating the gbox radiator - I think that would be a big mistake! :naughty:
by Chris Skinner
14 May 2014 17:56
 
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Re: Plastidip

I used 4 tins for 5 rims!
Obviously the more layers you do the easier it is to remove eventually by peeling it off - Frik advised one tin per rim though, but I only bought 4 initially. I managed around 5 layers which should be okay.
by Chris Skinner
24 Nov 2014 14:36
 
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Re: Visa - Visiting Mozambique

I visit Moz quite often, and I enter at the southern border post near Kosi Bay.
LAst year I took some Swedish friends with and we were able to get temp visa at the border without any problem.
...I just phoned the Moz Consulate at Nelspruit (google it!) and they confirmed that it is possible to get a temp visa at the border fopr German citizen.
by Chris Skinner
19 Jan 2015 10:08
 
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Re: River Trip 6-10 August 2015

I am definately putting my name down for this...

1 Dirk - Offroadbiker
2 Graham - Pathmaker
3 Tinus
4 Oellie
5 Chris - Bogeyman
6 Michael
7 Richster
8 Peter C
9 Alex
10 Mcrite
11 Johan Joubert
12 David Volschenk
13 Eddie Gouws
14 juice
15 gary roberts
16 Chris Skinner
by Chris Skinner
10 Mar 2015 15:50
 
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Re: Plastidip

So far so good - my mags still look great.
by Chris Skinner
12 Mar 2015 09:54
 
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Re: Warn Winch Service

If you open that winch be very careful not to dismantle the brake system that resides inside the drum - this unit is pretensioned by a spring and if you take it apart you will never get it together again - I had to take it to an expert to get it sorted... :mytwocents:
by Chris Skinner
30 Mar 2015 17:29
 
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Re: Warn Winch Service

If you do get it together again, the best way to check it is to hook the winch on something, engage the gear lever and then try pulling it by reversing in low range...
I screwed up a winch motor because brake was not working well and everytime I stopped winching, the boat started rolling back off the trailer, so could not let the amps build and motor cool off.
by Chris Skinner
30 Mar 2015 21:50
 
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